18 replies to this topic

[DAK]

So....I'm just about finished with a (stage 0) on my '98 V70xc, 145K miles. The PCV change went well - I have no pressure when I put the "rubber glove" on the oil filler hole, both at idle and when revving the engine. I did change out the oil dipstick o'ring, with the PCV change, as well as the oil filler cap gasket - I've also changed out the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Everything seemed to be good? BUT, I still have a leak I can't track down....ugggh. The leak appears on the front of the engine at about the height of the Oil Sending Unit. It leaks down the front of the oil pan, and proceeds to blow back along the whole underside of the car. (I'm not finding any leaks at the backside/turbo side of the engine, on the topside, or at either end "TB area, or RMS area".) I've ordered a new dipstick tube, dipstick, and dipstick o'ring since there seems slight oozing from that area, but would that be enough to blow up that high on the block, as well as coat the underside of the whole subframe? I'm also concerned about the split line on the block leaking in the area on the sketch - it does not appear to be leaking at the oil pan....anyone have issues with leaks there? So, I'm going to clean the oil off, again...replace the dipstick components...recheck all bolts on the block and oil pan and give it a try. If more leaks occur, I do have some Dye to put in the oil to check for leaks under a black light. If the dipstick doesn't solve the problem, would anyone recommend trying some of the "stop leak" products - since I don't want to have to pull the engine for a leak at the split line? (I was thinking a Lucas brand stop leak - or other recommendations?)

Thanks for the Help...will send pictures if there are still leaks, after tonights adventures.

Attached Files

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[erikv11]

So I think you mean the leak is somewhere near the oil trap, on the side of the engine? Like under the intake manifold? Front of the engine faces the passenger wheel.

If you mean it leaks at the side of the engine: I really can't see it leaking from that seam in the block, I have not ever heard of that, but who knows. I know you just did PCV but are you certain there are no leaks there? My 850 leaked at the dipstick mount once, it was a slow ooze not a gusher like this sounds. And it didn't spread upwards.

If you mean it leaks at the front of the engine: First place I would look is front cam seals.

Also are you certain it's leaking oil and not trans fluid? Not trying to harass you, just to cover all the bases.

I would never use a stop leak here but maybe others would. If you do, I would suggest it as a last last resort, no way should you do it before finding out where the leak comes from.

[DAK]

Thanks erikv11... When I say front of the engine, I am refering to the side facing the radiator not the TB side. I will recheck for any leaks around the PCV Box - and the connections from the box to block. I am going to replace the dipstick housing, and dipstick o'ring since it does ooze from there - I did put a new dipstick o'ring in when I did the PCV. The leak appears to be more in the middle of the block versus the PCV box side - hence I replaced the Oil Pressure Sending unit hoping that was it. I will clean everything up tonight, put a new o'ring in, and let it run. Will try to post some pic's. Will probably do the Dye Test this weekend if I can't get the leak to stop tonight. (Can't see anything that would be leaking up under the intake manifold. There is no sign of oil at the cam cover area...)
Thanks to all for any advise..

[Keaton85]

Sounds like a classic example of using metal clamps on the 90degree hose that comes off of the oil trap to the block. People use the metal clamps and tighten them down to much which causes rips thus leaks.

ohhh and that's the left side of the motor, the exhaust is the right, and the front is the timing belt side.

[erikv11]

Everyone agrees timing belt is on the front, but wouldn't the oil box be on the *right* side?

The thing about the dye is, does it really help find the leak if you don't catch it before it spreads across the engine etc? Seems like, instead of oil all over, you have oil with dye all over.

[survolvo]

erikv11, on 10 January 2012 - 07:30 PM, said:

Everyone agrees timing belt is on the front, but wouldn't the oil box be on the *right* side?

The thing about the dye is, does it really help find the leak if you don't catch it before it spreads across the engine etc? Seems like, instead of oil all over, you have oil with dye all over.

Timing Belt = Front
Throttle Body = Back
Intake = Left
Exhaust = Right
so the oil trap in under the intake right? so that would place it on the LEFT side.

I would do like PD said, and check the hose clamps.

OOPS! dyslexic

Edited by survolvo, 10 January 2012 - 07:50 PM.

[erikv11]

OK that's two votes for intake = left, got it thanks!

ANd three votes now for OP should check the attachments of the oil trap ...

[DAK]

Everyone is correct...TB is the Front - I thought I was simplifying this with my description, but just confused everyone? I will go back under there tonight to look at all areas suggested. By my inital observations: 1) Oil is oozing out of the dipstick hole in the block even though a new o'ring was used on the dipstick - I will replace this... 2) Oil Trap appears to be dry on all sides and top - but I may be wrong again...will check it out to see if I crushed any hoses causing a leak, 3) I did observe oil on the intake side of the block - about oil sending unit level - more toward the starter area, not the oil trap area. (I was hoping that the oil in this area was just due to the oil leak at the dipstick blowing onto the block when I was on the highway - could only hope for something this simple.) Thanks again for clarifying the (North, South, East, West) for engine position identification.

[DAK]

Thanks for the Advice and Entertainment on this Guys...Really. Got the Dipstick out and found a cut o'ring - got that replaced. Also checked the 90` hose off the Oil Trap again, and found a drip on the connection to the block. Wiped everything down....dipstick now doesn't ooze, and had a drip on the hose after a spirited ride with some boost. So.....the winners are: "please delete" for the tip on the hose, "TB = Front, and "intake = left?" maybe...depending if you're coming or going?

So...I will have to take the intake off and repair the leak - any tips on tightening this clamp so this doesn't happen or are the crimp type clamps better? Since I need to order a new intake gasket, should I go for the (IPD intake spacer kit), or aren't these worth it?

Thanks Again,

[Keaton85]

Yup, pull the intake and replace that hose, but use zip-ties instead as they dont cut in and hold just fine. Just make sure they are the 185degree rated ones, not cheap-o dollar tree junk...

Idono about the spacer, as personally I have no reason for it on stock vehicles.

[DAK]

Cool...will do the "zip tie thing"... Will leave the intake stock for now...the car seems plenty strong enough for me at this time. Thanks again.

[jdlc]

Curious about longevity of zip-ties, even the ones rated for heat. Oetiker clamps ftw : )

[Keaton85]

keep in mind tha the hoses "weld" themselves onto the block and trap over time. So the zip-tie is just on until that does happen as they are not under pressure.

[DAK]

Soooo...if I wait long enough the leak will stop? (Either the hose will get welded, or the PCV will get as plugged as it was before I changed it
Anyways...Thanks Again - Spot On Call!

[Keaton85]

haha, no since it probably ripped into the hose itself.

maybe JB weld the hoses together haha, just kidding, dont do that! (atleast on the block side)

[DAK]

Gotta Love doing any Job that you can use JB Weld on!....and Zip Ties......so off with the Intake tonight and hope a new hose and gasket gets here before the weekend.

[BlackBrick]

as for the oil leak...are you sure it's coming off the block? I've been chasing a leak, and finally determined it's the lower oil cooling hose. I've had them leak on both my 850's.

[erikv11]

jdlc, on 11 January 2012 - 01:42 AM, said:

Curious about longevity of zip-ties, even the ones rated for heat. Oetiker clamps ftw : )

I hate those Oetiker clamps but I was thinking the same thing - clearly a good solution here.

[DAK]

So...I got the intake off last night - low and behold the 90Deg elbow had a huge tear in it on the block side, but it was a ways above the Clamp? The clamp may have cut it upon installation - so valuable lesson learned on using a ratchet to tighten wormgear clamps. (It's unfortunate you have to take the intake off to get at this stuff, but I just loosened everything up enough to raise the intake to get at the hose - instead of removing the battery, air box, hoses, connectors....you know...). Thanks again for the good call on the cut hose - hopefully this will take care of the leaks, or minimize them to a managable level.)