4 replies to this topic

[142autox]

Followed by a no start.

Started with a self induced "lawn mower syndrome" it started then immediately stalled. Then when I tried to restart it sounded like a broken timing belt with bent valves. After sitting for several hours it restarted and the plus side is the lifter tick it's had for years hasn't come back since, bizarre!

Now, I can go start it in the morning and it will start everytime and idle smoothly but occasionally it will stall maybe 5-10 minutes into warm up then it won't restart. It has compression unlike the 1st time but will not start unless I crank it forever. Then when it does start it will sputter and miss for a while but it eventually clears. I've only witnessed the stall once, it'll be idling smooth then a sputter, then another, then the idle drops, then it missed more and stalled.

I can start it and immediately drive it and usually not have an issue (probably as often as it not stalling during warm up), but it's tried to leave me stranded at a junk yard by not restarting. It's embarrassing to have people stare at you in their cavaliers, tempos and other crap while you try to start your Volvo.

Here's what I've tried:
New CTS
New t-stat
Cleaned throttle body. It was nasty so I made a catch can.
Cleaned the IAC
Cleaned MAF
Checked codes and the only one was TPS, cleared it and it has come back

It almost seems that it hates rain but the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs are new. I checked under the cap and it's dry with no signs of arcing. If something is getting wet and failing it seems as though it would do it before it warms up.

The only thing I can think of that I haven't tested yet is fuel pressure. I'm not to sold on a fuel pressure issue since it drives great even at WOT.

The odo broke at 196,676 so it has several more than that, but it runs too well to just let it die because of this. Thoughts?

[smokin' T5M]

142autox, on 17 January 2012 - 09:51 PM, said:

If something is getting wet and failing it seems as though it would do it before it warms up.

This is what leads me to believe the Cam Position Sensor is bad. Is the sensor all aluminium or does it have a black plastic cap over it?

[142autox]

It's the all aluminum one. I replaced it with a known good, albeit used, one last year when I had a stalling issue. I got the cam and crank sensors out of a totaled previously running XC, and it fixed it until now. It coded for it then but this time I have no codes. I don't really want to buy a new one unless it's confirmed bad since they cost $180.

I still have my old black plastic capped cam sensor. Perhaps I should try it and see if the symptoms change.

[142autox]

She's Dead Jim.

I think I finally wore my car out. Probably should have checked this 1st but a compression test revealed 60-50-80-40-40 at operating temp. I was tipped off when I pulled the dipstick after it was warm and it was heaving out blow by gasses. A little oil in #2 spark plug hole and pressure jumped to 110.

I'm bummed, I've driven this car for 7 years. R.I.P.

[Tommy.]

That sucks, sorry for your loss ... CL for a new Volvo!