44 replies to this topic

[survolvo]

Oh ok I see. No leaks, just strong vac. When I replaced my PCV, the PTC vac line was ran straight the the vac tree from the PTC and the mani line was capped. I was only asking about silicone, because I have a stock pile of different sizes from being over zealous when doing stage 0. I'm gonna replace it, seeing as how I have to remove the mani again to fix the stripped hole.



please delete, Thanks again for all your help. Your the man! Sorry for my ignorance, I'm still learning a lot.

[bunce1260]

Would the prsence of warm oil and smoke/vapour from the snapped tube imply that everything else is working with the pcv system?
I was just thinking if it was clogged i wouldnt be seeing this.
What happens when the new tube is connected? Does it somehow suck the oil back into the air intake?
What arw the consequnces of not having the pipe connected to the air intake tube?
Could that oil just be routed to a collector of some sort?

[survolvo]

A lot of people have done away with the stock PCV completely and run into a vent-able catch can. Seems pretty elaborate, and is illegal in some states. I'm not sure what running the car without the line connected will do.

If the broken pipe is blowing oil and such, than your oil trap and ports on the block are probably clear, but your PTC might still be clogged. But it is probably making a mess in the engine bay, and the fumes STINK!

Replacing the PCV is really easy. It will be harder to try to make the broken line work. I would just get the parts and do it right. IMO.

[Keaton85]

Yup, you can have all that vapor and smoke but it's not the issue. The issue is the bottom port on the trap gets clogged where the oil drains back. If you want to reinvent the wheel go right ahead but like I said we will talk to you at some point after you pop out a seal!

It's cheap, easy and is a normal maintaince item on these vehicles.

Do some research, like I said there are more topics on PCV systems then almost anything else.

[bunce1260]

ive read plenty of threads.
It just looks like to me that 1 hose has failed in my case, and if that is indeed the case then its wasteful to replace the whole thing.
I just dont know how to figure that out for sure.

[Keaton85]

How does the inside of the cracked tube look?

[bunce1260]

Oily

[Keaton85]

Are there any crusty restriction? Or is it clean with oil on the plastic?

[bunce1260]

It's wet oil. Since I bought the car 2 weeks ago, everytime I check it wet oil was dripping down the inside of the insulation that covers it.

[Keaton85]

Still though, you are down to the basics that should be replaced. I'm willing to bet the system is bad.

It's a maintaince item that is cheaper then replacing a rear main seal! Why are you so against doing maintaince?

[bunce1260]

I'm not. There's no point in doing it if it's not necessary though.

[Black Betty]

Your going to have to remove the intake manifold to replace the one tube...

Might as well take off the 2 10mm bolts remaining that hold on the PCV box and at least inspect it.

[Tommy.]

QFT all the people trying to help you. Just take it off and inspect it.

[sconeman]

please delete, on 23 January 2012 - 01:51 AM, said:

I wonder who invented that copper design haha :-)

That vac hose in the picture is actually a later diameter hose. It helps A LOT during idle.

In my opinion the stock vac hose for that is WAY to small and does not have enough vacuum to work during idle.

haha yeah I was thinking about that later. I'm just the one with the pic. Thanks for the Great idea!

To answer the OP's question... The vac line that runs to the mani that I ran looks bigger because I used large diameter thick walled silicone for that. just easier to use and I had it lying around.

[survolvo]

sconeman, on 24 January 2012 - 06:16 PM, said:

haha yeah I was thinking about that later. I'm just the one with the pic. Thanks for the Great idea!

To answer the OP's question... The vac line that runs to the mani that I ran looks bigger because I used large diameter thick walled silicone for that. just easier to use and I had it lying around.

so its the same ID? 3.5 I think... Just thick walled?

[bunce1260]

So, I'm ordering the kit tonight. I know to only get OEM hoses. But I'm having a hard time telling who sells the kit with OEM hoses. Does anyone know for sure?
Also in my hours of reading up on this, I noticed someone using fuel hose instead of the hard plastic line in the kits and copper tube setup you have. Does anyone know what size id I would need to get to replace the brittle plastic?
Also if insreasing the size of the vacuum line helps, what size is that?
I may as well get this all squared away by going in once and having it in tip top shape.
Thanks guys.

[MattyM]

My tube did the same exact thing. I just replaced it with some surgical tubing. I heard you can just get rid of the whole flame trap system.

[Keaton85]

MattyM, on 30 January 2012 - 12:43 AM, said:

My tube did the same exact thing. I just replaced it with some surgical tubing. I heard you can just get rid of the whole flame trap system.

Umm what!?

[MattyM]

I remember reading somewhere that you can get rid of the little flametrap piece on the throttle elbow and just plug it up.

http://www.___.com/f...php?f=1&t=25813

[Keaton85]

That's on an N/A and you don't plug it or you will blow out seals left and right. You just remove the little white/yellowish piece.