27 replies to this topic

[Col.Kalashnikov]

Hey all,

I've been constantly plauged with slightly warmer than normal temperatures the entire life of my engine, the car overheated on me once when i got off the track, only once (I let it cool, and drove home no problems). Recently its been running slightly more warm then the normal slightly over half (for the vehicle) the water pump was replaced with the timing belt Sept 2010. Later while diagnosing misfiring/mixture issues the thermostat and temperature sensor were also replaced. I opted for a lower temp thermostat (180) to try to keep things under control until I put my other motor in. The car is a 95 855 Turbo. I'm getting ready to drop that boat anchor engine (300000km vs 180000 volvo rebuild.) While doing this I want to make my heat control problems a thing of the past, I dont remember my fan switching on at the track when it overheated (I was out of the car packing up my things to leave) I switched the relay from my parts car at this point. I have heard the fan turn on many times since, however I feel it should activate at some points and does not, I traced it to some wiring issues with the relay input. However nothing has changed, and the problem seems to be when the car is driving, not at idle. If anyone has any ideas to solve these problems shoot (more of a maitenance/repair thing I know...)

Now for the performance bit...
For my next motor swap I want to make some drastic changes and I'm looking for some opinions. I've heard that a 97-04 mustang radiator will fit with some modifications. I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with all aluminum mustang rads in their vehicles, what changes this made. I was also looking to see if anyone has bypassed their relay and opted for switched fans. The car is a daily driver that sees the track often in the summer. While doing this I was also thinking of switching to a separate oil cooler, and if anyone has had any experience with these shoot. I will be getting the necessary Oil Pressure/Oil Temp gauges for these changes. If anyone has any better options shoot. After these changes I'm going to get the car professionally tuned rather then my previous attempts with RICA (Car has always run insanely rich) plus I will be making a number of other changes(different exhaust, injectors etc etc).

Let me know what you think, what other options you suggest etc.

[lookforjoe]

Howe Racing made me this:



better quality than your average Mustang rad.

I didn't spec internal oil coolers as I have the later oil pan installed.

The stock fan/shroud are well designed, I'd just fix what you have.

[Fishey]

Pull the radiator... clean it and re-install it...

Mine was almost totally plugged from outside material getting stuck in it at 260,000miles..

[Col.Kalashnikov]

lookforjoe, on 24 January 2012 - 03:53 AM, said:

Howe Racing made me this:



better quality than your average Mustang rad.

I didn't spec internal oil coolers as I have the later oil pan installed.

The stock fan/shroud are well designed, I'd just fix what you have.

Looks like they did a wonderful job. It looks like a quality piece, nice welds. I'm looking at mishimoto right now. I have no problem with the fan/shroud design of the stock car, but the triggering system... Rather than screw with all the electronics/relays, I'd rather hard switch it, or atleast add a switch on top for when I get off the track. Like I said the car was literally sitting when it overheated that day (was packing up my stuff). Exact circumstances: Pound the stuff out of car on track, get off track all temps normal, left with hood open for 15-20 minutes. Decide I'm not going to go back out, closed the hood and started packing my stuff (10 minutes tops?) Someone says Hey, theres steam coming off your car, I look quickly "Maybe its the rain against the hood." I dunno thats a lot of steam man, sure enough its pissing steam everywhere, look at gauge its way in the red. Shut off car, let cool, drove for months without problems.

Anyway on to the rad. I'm looking for something without plastic endtanks, all one piece, and maybe offer some better cooling. Not to mention the problem with the volvo rad oil coolers leaking into the rad. Looking for simplicity here, I don't want to spend lots on something custom, but I don't mind making a few modifications to fit something else. I think making this move would also be better as the stuff is more universal and easier to obtain. I don't know what the difference in cooling efficiency is, this is the main reason for me asking. Heres what I'm looking at getting http://www.mishimoto...ator-97-04.html

I'd rather get rid of that old crusty rad than clean it.

Thanks,

Corey.

[lookforjoe]

These are the basic dimensions



The one you're looking at won't fit between the stock body opening. The outlet is slightly too large. By the time you're done modifying your $300 rad, you could have bought the custom one from Howe, just sayin'.

Otherwise, just get a new stock rad for about $125; a Stant 45378 180ºF (superstat) instead of the plain bottom-pull180ºF you probably were given.

The stock system works. Many people on here track & drag their cars with the stock cooling system. Sounds like you just need to address your electrical woes.

[Gideon35T]

Radiators get mineral build up over time - I'd check to see how clogged up it is first. Just to KNOW where your problems is for sure.
As for running a manual switch - I've done that on many different cars (3 of my current cars are). Just be sure to use a light up switch so it's easy to tell when it's on/off. If you track the car then most likely you are an alert enough driver to be fine with manual control. Does anyone know what the stock fan pushes for air? I tend to delete oem fans and drop in 12" 1,200cfm units for most applications. I also run a mix of 80% water and 20% coolant + a bottle of water wetter.
For the sake of cost I'd probably just get a new replacement rad and run external fluid coolers for trans and oil. Then ditch the oem fan for an aftermarket one. But that's me ...

[Gideon35T]

Sorry, I should add that I havent ran aftermarket switch operated fans on a volvo yet. I havent really needed the space of felt that the oem fan wasnt efficient enough.
However, the ones I use have proven worthwhile for: 4A-C AE86, L20b Datsun 620, D15a3 3G Civic, BPT Escort, 3800 GrandAm, SR20DE G20, 5.0 Stang, etc etc etc

[lookforjoe]

Gideon35T, on 24 January 2012 - 01:38 PM, said:

Radiators get mineral build up over time - I'd check to see how clogged up it is first. Just to KNOW where your problems is for sure.
As for running a manual switch - I've done that on many different cars (3 of my current cars are). Just be sure to use a light up switch so it's easy to tell when it's on/off. If you track the car then most likely you are an alert enough driver to be fine with manual control. Does anyone know what the stock fan pushes for air? I tend to delete oem fans and drop in 12" 1,200cfm units for most applications. I also run a mix of 80% water and 20% coolant + a bottle of water wetter.
For the sake of cost I'd probably just get a new replacement rad and run external fluid coolers for trans and oil. Then ditch the oem fan for an aftermarket one. But that's me ...

The stock shroud is very functional. It draws air though the entire rad, as opposed to an aftermarket strapped directly to the core, which is NOT as efficient.

Manual override switch is easy to add on, as you say. Just have to be sure that you don't backfeed the wiring, since the ECU governs the fan. Simple enough to add a diode to prevent that.

[rbodor3]

lookforjoe, on 24 January 2012 - 03:33 PM, said:

The stock shroud is very functional. It draws air though the entire rad, as opposed to an aftermarket strapped directly to the core, which is NOT as efficient.

Manual override switch is easy to add on, as you say. Just have to be sure that you don't backfeed the wiring, since the ECU governs the fan. Simple enough to add a diode to prevent that.

Hussein is correct, the stock fan shroud is very functional.
When I'm trying to find more cooling capacity in existing machines, the first thing is of course looking at your load chnages. there's tons of different paths you can take, but primarily I've found increasing fin density, material, type (internal/external) has the biggest affect.

Running the fan faster normally creates more heat, although a bigger fan could improve air flow most OE's already size the fan as large as possible. Manual switch won't change your cooling capacity, so your limiting ambient temperature stays the same. All you do with a switch is delay how long until you overheat, yes simple, but if that's the problem then you have other problems b/c the fan should've come on anyway.

I would advice just doing exactly what Hussein did: buy the same radiator from Howe. It's made of aluminum, and he already did the hard work of figuring if it will fit. Odds are your current radiator is either clogged internally with minerals, externally with debris, or has many bent fins, or you have unrelated problems with the fan, or your water pump.

Changing material type for the radiator will have the biggest effect while staying safe. if you increase fin density you're much more likely to clog the radiator faster.

[Col.Kalashnikov]

This rad was custom from Howe correct, not something I can readily order off of their website. How much did you pay for yours (roughly). I can get one of those mishimoto's for 200 bucks, I wasn't going to modify the rad, I was going to modify everything around it, i.e the car. front bumper etc and go from there. I know not many people have too many problems with the stock stuff, however that being said I want to add extra buffer room here. There are shroud setups available for the mustang rads, although I'm not denying the efficiency of the stock setup. I'm looking for something fail safe, and I don't want to monkey around with rads. It may be more ideal to get the Howe, if thats the case I'll go for that depending on the price, do not want stock replacement. Just ordered a wahler 87 for my new engine, guess I should go with the stant instead.

[rbodor3]

you should read hussein's post again, he pointed out that he paid $300.

[Col.Kalashnikov]

Found your sketches on a previous thread, I assume if I provide them with these I should be all set? I don't have to worry about the condensor its gone. And I have a 3" FMIC instead of the stock top to bottom.

[rbodor3]

It really sounds like you're having some other cooling issue. Honestly could just be internal clogging of your radiator, or bent fins. What turbo and boost levels are you running?? With the FMIC and removed condenser I can't imagine why you're overheating so bad, except that you have a bunch of debris clogging your internal fins, or you have a bunch of bent external fins. Either that or the heat load you're putting on it due to a bigger turbo is causing overheat, but even then I haven't read others post that up.

Might be worthwhile to pull the radiator and flush it, and check the fins. Spray it out with low pressure water, using high pressure or compressed air is a good way to bend all of the fins.

check your radiator cap too, could be not maintaining pressure, but your car would likely be peeing everywhere.

[JWL]

Have the rad rodded, cleaned, or flushed. If you put in the new engine, or not, install a coolant filter. There are strainers that install into the hose itself, or you can use a fuel/oil filter and run it across the heater core hose if it is always flowing.

[rbodor3]

and for all future reference, I wouldn't run anything less than 75/25. I used to be big on it until I did the research, and got the experience in cooling system design and function.

coolant has a higher boiling point, and the additives do work in preventing buildup, and lubrication.

[lookforjoe]

rbodor3, on 25 January 2012 - 04:04 AM, said:

you should read hussein's post again, he pointed out that he paid $300.

No, I said the one he linked was $300 - the Howe rad is about $450 (with NO internal coolers)....

Col.Kalashnikov, on 25 January 2012 - 04:05 AM, said:

Found your sketches on a previous thread, I assume if I provide them with these I should be all set? I don't have to worry about the condensor its gone. And I have a 3" FMIC instead of the stock top to bottom.

They usually keep the drawings on file - if not, there are three drawings you need - I can post them here if you decide to do it.

JWL, on 25 January 2012 - 05:04 AM, said:

Have the rad rodded, cleaned, or flushed. If you put in the new engine, or not, install a coolant filter. There are strainers that install into the hose itself, or you can use a fuel/oil filter and run it across the heater core hose if it is always flowing.

Not practical to "rod" a cheap plastic end tank radiator, easier to just buy a new one, since they can be had for under $150 online.

[mojojo]

rbodor3, on 25 January 2012 - 04:04 AM, said:

you should read hussein's post again, he pointed out that he paid $300.

Not to be a dick, but maybe you should read it again... He never mentioned the price he payed, and my bet is it's probably north of $300.

OP,
It seems as though you've made your decision already; you will have a different than stock radiator.
Now really, if it were more at a research point here, the sound decision would probably be to inspect your OE parts and replace anything that was suffering the years and miles put on. I'm well aware of the benefits between different types and construction of radiators, as it is, the Volvo parts your car came with are actually satisfactory performers though...

[Col.Kalashnikov]

Well, I've decided to just go with OEM Nissens replacement. The problem with my current engine is getting worse, Not near red yet, I feel a lot of pressure in the rad hoses. I think you are all probably right in it being clogged. Will let you know after I change it.

[Col.Kalashnikov]

Well, Changed it, no change in temperatures, still too damn warm.

[Jardim]

Could a faulty (c wut i did there) thermostat cause this? what else besides the rad have you tried to fix the issue?