144 replies to this topic

[fischmama]

^ NICE!

What I am currenlty doing with MS3

[Captain Bondo]

You're going to weld what? Sounds like a bad plan. What is your actual goal at this point?

[lookforjoe]

Captain Bondo, on 09 February 2012 - 07:00 AM, said:

You're going to weld what? Sounds like a bad plan. What is your actual goal at this point?

Fill these seams between top of the cylinder bores, it is what has been recommended.



I don't have a specific power goal. I want to make over 400WHP, of course, since I was already approaching that.

It will depend on first how well I can use TT to get the initial setup, then work on the VEMS

[550]

I think once you get VEMS working properly, you will never look back.

Jardim, on 06 February 2012 - 06:33 AM, said:

Pras didnt get that high before he blew his...just saying.

Many things can effect that. So you can't say, just because one person blew their engine trying to get there... that it is less than possible. Also, what turbo? Tuning? Injectors? How much timing?

Too many variables.

[BlackT5]

You must have these saved already?

[Captain Bondo]

lookforjoe, on 09 February 2012 - 12:22 PM, said:

Fill these seams between top of the cylinder bores, it is what has been recommended.

No offense- but where do you guys come up with this stuff anyways?

[lookforjoe]

Captain Bondo, on 09 February 2012 - 04:19 PM, said:

No offense- but where do you guys come up with this stuff anyways?

That's from the UK Volvo crowd, as far as I know. I'm not going to go with Darton Sleeves, so filling those seams to prevent potential expansion & cracking has been recommended.

[854TGA+]

Sticking with your slammed OEM pistons?

[lookforjoe]

BlackT5, on 09 February 2012 - 03:02 PM, said:

You must have these saved already?

Thanks - Mark. I have the '98 wiring manual, but I couldn't find the signal description pages - I just typed them up as an Excel spreadsheet

[Jardim]

550, on 09 February 2012 - 12:37 PM, said:

I think once you get VEMS working properly, you will never look back.


Many things can effect that. So you can't say, just because one person blew their engine trying to get there... that it is less than possible. Also, what turbo? Tuning? Injectors? How much timing?

Too many variables.

'

Sorry, he didnt blow his engine, i meant to say he cracked his block. IDK what the setup was i read the thread a long time ago.

Varibles will affect, your right.

[lookforjoe]

854TGA+, on 09 February 2012 - 05:12 PM, said:

Sticking with your slammed OEM pistons?

No, Trent. I thought I already covered that - I'm using JE forged. The whole reason I'm doing all this is 'cos I melted/broke one of the cast pistons - NOT the one that got slammed, BTW

[854TGA+]

lookforjoe, on 09 February 2012 - 05:56 PM, said:

No, Trent. I thought I already covered that - I'm using JE forged. The whole reason I'm doing all this is 'cos I melted/broke one of the cast pistons - NOT the one that got slammed, BTW

Awesome Bud!

[lookforjoe]

Revised Enem Cams Y21 arrived today - VVT head, but standard cam gear fitting. Rears are revised pin design

[Captain Bondo]

I think doing anything to the upper cylinders is very risky. If that is a proven practice by someone making proven power then that is interesting. I would not touch that gap and sure as heck would not take a welder to the top of the cylinders. That's a good way to make things crack.

If you want to use JE pistons then fine, but your pistons melted because of poor engine control, a JE piston would likely have melted, too.

I really hate the comments of "the block/pistons/rods/etc are only good to xxxhp becuase so-and so's broke at yyyhp". It's all utter bull.

[lookforjoe]

Captain Bondo, on 10 February 2012 - 12:17 AM, said:

I think doing anything to the upper cylinders is very risky. If that is a proven practice by someone making proven power then that is interesting. I would not touch that gap and sure as heck would not take a welder to the top of the cylinders. That's a good way to make things crack.

If you want to use JE pistons then fine, but your pistons melted because of poor engine control, a JE piston would likely have melted, too.

I really hate the comments of "the block/pistons/rods/etc are only good to xxxhp becuase so-and so's broke at yyyhp". It's all utter bull.

BlackBeast did this seam filling mod- I've PM'd him on T5D5 for more info. He's around 450HP (don't know if it's crank or wheel, it's UK measured)

I was assuming from statements of others that the cast pistons don't like constant high revs & may be reaching their limit around 400BHP. I don't have the engine apart yet, so the exact cause is still speculation.

[Mr Green T5-R]

lookforjoe, on 10 February 2012 - 12:53 AM, said:

BlackBeast did this seam filling mod- I've PM'd him on T5D5 for more info. He's around 450HP (don't know if it's crank or wheel, it's UK measured)

I was assuming from statements of others that the cast pistons don't like constant high revs & may be reaching their limit around 400BHP. I don't have the engine apart yet, so the exact cause is still speculation.

I live quite close to Steve and we attend quite a lot of T5D5 events! His power is Fly wheel Hp and not Wheel Hp.
I have also done the same thing to My engine as well! And so have quite a few other's with high Bhp cars as well! No problems Yet? In fact Tim Williams has an 850 estate with a GT28 and uses it on Track with slicks and runs at constant High RPM and pummels the hell out of his engine and has never had no issues with the Liquid metal seam filling mod!

Back to Turbo talk I make 327 Fly Hp & 343 ft lbs with a Hybrid 16t basically clipped blades another guy with the exact same engine in a S70 is Using a KKK24 and he is currently getting 330 Fly Hp and a few more ft lbs than me.
Although small turbos, they make very good fast road and track turbos my car will still do 160 mph all day long as well!
But I have experienced the difference first hand of my Turbo, Hybrid 16T VS a GT30! All I can say is, when my 16T had ran out of puff at 6000 rpm and I had to change gear, Steve's was still revving on its way to 7400rpm and it looked like he was going to drive in to the back of my car? lol

Cheers Greg

[B Mac]

Captain Bondo, on 09 February 2012 - 04:19 PM, said:

No offense- but where do you guys come up with this stuff anyways?

I know you've had great success with your t6 but go over to t5d5.org and send "Tim Williams" a pm. He offered me a lot of advice for my gripper LSD as well as information about what those seams are for and how to help prevent cylinder wall damage.

[Captain Bondo]

I have an approach to these motors that I am comfortable with. I was just curious what the rationale for that modification was, as I disagree with it. I'm not shopping for advice, to be honest.

I don't have to pay for people's broken stuff, so at the end of the day people can do whatever they want. I have been telling Hussein for some time that he would pop that motor using the approach he was using. It popped. I am glad he's going to switch to an EMS. That will help. The commentary regarding forged pistons, welding/filling on the block, etc I don't agree with but that's just my opinion.

My approach allows for 100hp/cylinder with fairly low effort. IMO an open deck aluminum block should be held at around this level if you want it to be reliable. Snake oil fixes involving braces, welding, etc etc can easily do more harm than good. Past that point reliability is a coin toss and sleeving is the only proven option. I have seen blocks where the liner is intact and the actual block is split between the cylinders and there is an 1/8" crack.

[Mr Green T5-R]

Captain Bondo, on 10 February 2012 - 06:03 PM, said:

I have an approach to these motors that I am comfortable with. I was just curious what the rationale for that modification was, as I disagree with it. I'm not shopping for advice, to be honest.

I don't have to pay for people's broken stuff, so at the end of the day people can do whatever they want. I have been telling Hussein for some time that he would pop that motor using the approach he was using. It popped. I am glad he's going to switch to an EMS. That will help. The commentary regarding forged pistons, welding/filling on the block, etc I don't agree with but that's just my opinion.

My approach allows for 100hp/cylinder with fairly low effort. IMO an open deck aluminum block should be held at around this level if you want it to be reliable. Snake oil fixes involving braces, welding, etc etc can easily do more harm than good. Past that point reliability is a coin toss and sleeving is the only proven option. I have seen blocks where the liner is intact and the actual block is split between the cylinders and there is an 1/8" crack.

Hello Captain Bondo

As I said above quite a few people have had it done to their engines for a few years with out any adverse affects!

Have you seen this modification cause problems in the past? and what problems do you think or know of it causing?

Thanks Greg

[lookforjoe]

Captain Bondo, on 10 February 2012 - 06:03 PM, said:

The commentary regarding forged pistons, welding/filling on the block, etc I don't agree with but that's just my opinion.

My approach allows for 100hp/cylinder with fairly low effort. IMO an open deck aluminum block should be held at around this level if you want it to be reliable.

OK, so the mod is actually using a .7mm steel shim the depth of the split, slightly longer in length to allow bending tabs for securing, that's it. I'll do that. If I can get close to 500BHP (with VEMS), I think I would be more than happy. Can't imagine the AWD components holding up beyond that anyway.