50 replies to this topic

[Keaton85]

Just put it back together to run and drive it and see what else it needs before doing a complete motor swap and then finding out the tranny is shot or the AWD is gone.

Wouldnt take but a few hours to get the cover back on and the timing belt installed. Real easy and wont cost much.

Set the crank timing, install the cams on their marks, seal and bolt down the cover. Install the seals and timing belt. See how she runs...

[NJGreenBudd]

I would like to do that but the head looks to have some dirty oil and small debris inside by the valve springs. I would like to pull the head off, clean it and reinstall with a new OEM gasket and new headbolts. Unless you can help me think of a way to clean the head internally while it's still on the car?? Just a bit dirty from sitting after the headgasket was done...

[Keaton85]

It will clean up, as the only place that needs to be clean are the oil passages to the lifters.

It's worth it as the cost is little to nothing to just toss it together. After you run it the dust and what not will get filtered out.

[NJGreenBudd]

So that debris won't clog the passages when it starts up? as long as it gets flushed away with out risk I'll try to clean it up a bit first and go for it then. I'll check the headbolts before buttoning it up? make sure they aren't loose and then reinstall the cams and stuff.

[Keaton85]

There are passages but they are large drains that go right down to the oil pan. The oil passages to the lifters is the last stop, so as long as those are clean your good.

Also I recommend choosing your cleaner wisely as brake cleaner will destroy the valve stem seals in short order.

As for the head bolts, just check if they are torqued past 45ft lbs as that would mean they did the 130 degree turn most likly. IF they move at 45 or 50 then you should just unbolt and redo the bolts, no big deal.

Just keep in mind to get that crank on the mark before installing the cams, then install the cams on the CORRECT marks when tightening down the cover. Also use the pink volvo sealant...

[NJGreenBudd]

This is very helpful information. I won't use any solvent in the head then, maybe just rinse some of the stuff down with clean oil. I'm gonna go back out side now and button up some loose ends. I need some parts like intake gasket, vac hose, fuel injector o-rings, spark plug seals, cam seals, etc... so I'll make a list and order up here shortly.

[Keaton85]

once you are done just use cheap-o dino oil and change it out a few times at say 1K-1.5K miles. That should help get out some of the stuff that can't get past the pick-up screen.

[NJGreenBudd]

That sounds good to me. I just hooked up all the turbo lines tonight. Cleaned the cam cover a bit. Going to take the PCV lines off and make sure they are clear while it's apart too. It's got a new timing belt, water pump and pulleys.

So here are my parts list so far:

oil filter
spark plugs
spark plug seals
cam cover sealant
cam seals front and rear
fuel injector o-rings
intake manifold gasket

what am i missing?

Here's what it looks like right now, took the manifold off to access the PCV today. Still need to finish cleaning the cam cover but it's almost done. I need a better cleaner or a soft plastic scraper to get that last stuck on stuff.

[Keaton85]

Looks good so far.. a few things to note stated below:

- Looks like the brake booster hose is pretty shot
- Delete your SAS
- Razer blade the old sealent on the cover, the crusty orange/brown stuff
- Get a little cheap-o dollar store paint roller for the sealant
- Apply extra sealant around the blank hole on the cover (the on to the right of the oil fill)
- Lube the lifters
- Lube the surface for the cams
- I would replace the PCV system as it looks original, either leave it for later just to get the car running and see how it is or do it now. Either way you just have to take the intake back off again but that's no biggy...

ohh and make 100% sure all those small oil passages to the lifters and cam journels are clear!!! Other then that everything looks easy peasy..

[NJGreenBudd]

Thanks for all those points, all taken into consideration now. I went ahead and ordered most everything from FCP except for the chemical gasket which I will pickup at the dealer.



What about the cam lock tool set? Worth $180?

[Keaton85]

No need for any holder or anything special.

Just set the cams onto the head and align them on the marks. Then put the cover on and slowly bolt it down with a handful of the bolts in vairing locations to not pull down any part to much. It will suck down and bring everything together slowly...

[atefitty]

I would just buy the car for $800 and drop another known working complete junkyard motor in it..

[Keaton85]

I don't think you read over this topic as he already bought it.

Also it's a lot easeir to just put it back together and check everything then risk a complete motor swap on an unknown vehicle.

[NJGreenBudd]

Okay things are coming along, been doing small stuff like replacing the PCV and all the vac lines while waiting for the last parts before reassembly. I just received the cam cover sealant and a few misc items I was waiting for. At this point my plan is to move it into the garage and attempt to reinstall the cams and cover, set the timing, put few parts back on and try to fire it up Sat night.

Quick question for you since you have been so very helpful thus far:

Cam seals - these go on before or after reinstalling the cams? after i imagine so they seat with the cover and head. Do the timing sprockets need to be removed for the front seals? Can I mark the sprockets and bolts relation to preserve timing if I need to remove them?



Some pics

old and new pcv system




replaced these TCV vac lines and more for cbv, egr(?), etc...



Thanks very much!

[NJGreenBudd]

Quick question, been reading the writeups and still not clear on setting the crank timing. Is the mark on the cranl gear supposed to line up exactly with the mark on the oil pump? Or are there two notches that need to be on either side of the oil pump line?

How do I know it's not 180' off?

Sorry for the simple questions, I am at work thinking about this and want to clear it up befor egoing home to start. I'll load VIDA at home and see if it makes things more clear.

Thanks!

[NJGreenBudd]

Seems that there might be two variations of the crank gear, some with one notch and others with one notch.
　
2 notches = 1 on either side of the block pointer
1 notch = Line up with block pointer

And since this isn't TDC, does it make sense that as long as the marks are lined up its okay to install the belt?



See these different versions:

2 Notches


1 Notch

[NJGreenBudd]

During reassembly we found this, doesn't look good to me:

[Ghost Shadow]

ehh, cam seal will keep it from leaking, it looks like it is on the head side. fuck it. keep putting it together. it leaks it leaks, you panned on putting in another motor anyways.

[NJGreenBudd]

I'm pretty sure it's gonna leak, it's cracked through to the external seal side, and looks like the same crack is starting on the other side of the same cam slot in the exact same spot. I think the PO might have cracked it when removing the cam, love finding these neat surprises from PO, lol.

So yeah now I have to decide to either 1) Attempt to throw it together and risk it 2) Remove the head and replace with used or rebuilt head. 3) Remove the whole engine for a motor swap.

Right now I am leaning towards 2 for a few reason. I don't want to waste my time putting it together when it's already broken, plus whatever else might be hidden. My spare motor is a '02 RN block which will work but requires some modification to the cam and dealing with VVT. I'm going to start looking for a used head but please feel free to share your thoughts on the matter.

[831t5r]

Ive seen that happen a couple times when people dont remove cams right. Coworker did that on a customers car it needed a new head for liability reasons so he got a used head for 300. If it were my car since i work at volvo id put it together see what happens. Anerobic sealer will seal most of all the other areas and where its cracked the front cam seal should also seal it.