28 replies to this topic

[thesameguy]

I bought this '98 V70 GLT last fall on a whim - I had thought it just needed a PnP sensor, but as it turned out it was in full transmission failure. I got depressed, parked the car in August or September, and then made a point to ignore it every time I went outside. That was fun, but I'm over it now. I decided two weeks ago to go ahead and replace the transmission, so I bought a used one from a local dismantler (Rancho Cordova Volvo Saab MINI) for $250. I could have pulled one from a junkyard for less, but I didn't feel like wrestling with that much work myself, and the $175 difference I paid these guys to just put it in my truck was soooo worth it. Warranty doesn't hurt, either, I suppose. I spent the last two weeks agonizing over whether I should just do the transmission, or pull the whole engine and do some other stuff while it's out. I have stuffed two automatics through wheel well holes in my life, and frankly that enough for me. Today, the car went up on jack stands and I got to the "fun" business of pulling the engine.

Fluids are drained, intake plumbing removed, axles are out. Next step is a disconnecting too many connectors, vacuum hoses, and other small stuff. I am not looking forward to it, but hopefully within another week or two the car will actually be driveable. Wouldn't that be nice?

I am putting a parts list together as I go - right now it's not very impressive. I am unsure whether I should replace the rear main seal, but it seems like a solid idea. How often do they need replacing? This car has 130k on it, and hasn't leaked a drop of anything in the half year it's been sitting around. I am really considering replacing the MAF/injectors/turbo/ECU with stuff from a T5 - is that a terrible idea for an automatic? It seems like it'd be a fun upgrade, and I think I can score that stuff for pretty cheap. Anything else unusual I should consider while the thing is apart? I will be replacing the oil pan as it has a small crack - my JB Weld repair has been flawless, but I don't want to think about it ever again.

Thanks for any thoughts/encouragement/prayers.

[thesameguy]

Here I think is Parts, First Round:

2 Axle Seal (6843112)
1 Seal (Torque Converter) (9495017)
2 O-Ring (A/T Cooling Line to Radiator) (6842413)
2 Seal Ring (A/T Cooling Lines-Radiator) (6842414)

1 Expansion tank hose (to thermostat) (9135267)
1 Heater Hose O-Ring Kit (3545662)
1 Lower Radiator Hose (9470409M)
1 Thermostat Kit (87 degree) (271417)
1 Upper Radiator Hose (1335433)

1 Gasket Sealant (valve cover, oil pan, differential cover) (1161059)
1 Oil Pump Seal Kit (30750783E)

1 Intake Manifold Gasket (9146266)

1 Rear crankshaft seal (9458178)
1 Front crankshaft seal (6842273) (which I don't actually think I will mess with)

[BlackBrick]

just think of all the money you'll save. I bought a used a/ trans for $300, and paid someone $900 to swap it in for me. So far, the trans is shifting like new! Good luck to you too!

[Keaton85]

Replace the RMS! as that is the number two part of the top hit list, timing belt componants being number one.

I wouldnt get all crazy with items you can replace as they fail! just do the items that are a major pain to do with the motor installed.

Also if you are going to replace your oil pan I highly recommend going with a 00+ oil pan as it has the builtish in oil cooler. Saves you the trouble of having to do the oil cooler lines and you can use the cartridge filters which are nice becuase you can inspect them after each change very easily.

As for the T5 thing, all you need is the ECU, injectors, and turbo. No MAF needed as they are the same.

Last but not least, delete your SAS while you are in there. Plug the hole in the exhaust and remove the system.

[SeedyRom]

If you are going to replace the intake manifold gasket, just do the entire PCV system. I'm sure it'll be a lot easier to do with the engine outside the car.

[erikv11]

Are the timing components still plenty fresh?

[NM Evan]

i got the cam seals new, pm me if you want them.

[Keaton85]

I meant 99+ oil pan

[thesameguy]

What is an RMS or SAS? I'm pretty new to recent Volvos... my last one was an '85 745T a decade ago!

Later oil pan sounds like a winner, as I realized today I didn't order new o-rings for the radiator fittings. Then, I found out it's almost impossible to get the motor out of the car with the oil cooler thermostat still attached as it won't quite clear the frame rail without dramatically tilting the engine. I just removed it, took a nice oil bath, cursed a lot, then added oil cooler thermostat seal/o-ring to my parts list.

The timing belt/water pump was done 12/07 at about 105k. Pretty sure the head gasket was done at the same time, as the work order shows valve grinds and head bolts. Oddly, it's only for $550, which seems low for that much work - at least on a Volvo. That's like $90 on my XR4Ti!

I put another four hours into the car today, not expecting to get all the far at the pace I was working, but about 3pm I got the motor out. Bazillions of vacuum and electrical connections are not going to be fun to put back. I took a ton of pictures, but I'm already pretty sure I didn't adequately document some of the forward-facing vacuum connections. We'll see when I get there. Removal, though, was a pretty painless... just the minor hiccup with the oil cooler thermostat.



Forgot to finish my thought - the car has 130k on it now, so the timing belt is still pretty young.

[Keaton85]

Wow, why did you strip everything off the motor before pulling!?!?

RMS: Rear main seal
SAS: Secondary air pump system

[thesameguy]

Ah, I will definitely do the rear seal, but I have to leave the air pump or the car will not pass its smog check.

I didn't pull anything off the engine I didn't have to except arguably the intake manifold, but a) getting to the wiring under it (starter, etc.) was a pain with it in place, and not having it there gave me a lot more forward clearance. What did you mean?

Oh, are you talking about the accessories? I left the p/s pump and a/c compressor in the car since I didn't want to drain the systems. Yanking the alternator took a couple minutes and made it much easier to get to the top bolts on the a/c compressor.

[Keaton85]

Leaving the harness on the motor takes a lot less time!

Doing an SAS delete does not fail smog. It removes the system without any adverse effects. Do the research as it one thing you really want to eliminate! They are junk....

[thesameguy]

How can it not fail smog? It's an emissions component, and as such cannot be tampered with under Federal or California law. Any smog check tech would see that plug and fail the car immediately on visual alone. If there's a recall or something that otherwise removes it, then I'm in the clear... but if Volvo put it there and CARB knows about it, I have to leave it.

[Keaton85]

Then that smog check tech must be on VS some place as that would be EXTREMELY observant to notice a removed SAS system.

[Tommy.]

please delete, on 31 January 2012 - 02:31 AM, said:

Then that smog check tech must be on VS some place as that would be EXTREMELY observant to notice a removed SAS system.

This. The smog tech is probably spying on this thread right now

[scumcity14]

thesameguy, on 31 January 2012 - 02:18 AM, said:

How can it not fail smog? It's an emissions component, and as such cannot be tampered with under Federal or California law. Any smog check tech would see that plug and fail the car immediately on visual alone. If there's a recall or something that otherwise removes it, then I'm in the clear... but if Volvo put it there and CARB knows about it, I have to leave it.

You sound like a fed. bureaucrat... You can do the SAS delete and leave everything looking factory (its essentially just a diode in the ECU and capping a vac. line..nothing really visible)..or Get a non SAS emission sticker for under the hood if your that worried. Then do the SAS delete and remove all visible traces of the air pump etc...
Or buy a Prius and you wont have to worry...

Edited by scumcity14, 31 January 2012 - 03:29 AM.

[scumcity14]

Tommy., on 31 January 2012 - 03:00 AM, said:

This. The smog tech is probably spying on this thread right now

He IS the smog tech..he's an under cover CARB agent looking for "cheaters"..

[thesameguy]

Apparently none of you guys live in California. They don't mess around here. Last time I got a car smogged, I had to help the tech find the smog pump on my Alfa 164Q. The visual checklist indicated the car was equipped with one, and he would not pass the car until he verified it was there and connected. Smog check places get "shopped" by undercover CARB (BAR? I dunno...) employees periodically to ensure they are doing their job properly. If they aren't, they get fined and/or shut down. Nobody is going to pass a car they aren't positive about and risk that sort of penalty, and I don't blame them. I appreciate the advice, but I'm not going to mess around with the emissions system on the car. It's just not worth the hassle to me down the road. On the upside, we don't have safety inspections so I'm free to drive around with bad brakes and bald tires, so that's pretty cool.

[erikv11]

thesameguy, on 31 January 2012 - 03:56 AM, said:

On the upside, we don't have safety inspections so I'm free to drive around with bad brakes and bald tires, so that's pretty cool.

[Keaton85]

I don't think you heard correctly. You can leave the system, just install a diode. If the tech rips out your ECU and opens it up and knowns what to look for then that would be insane...

Whatever, we were just trying to help...