I need to replace the exhaust so I'm going to buy the Starla assembly on FCP. Is this an easy swap out or am I going to need to take it to a shop? What other parts should I be buying in terms of hangers, etc. Everything on the car has about 220k on it...thanks!
Easy To Connect New Starla Exhaust To Existing Oem Cat?
Started by dano2212, Jan 30 2012 02:13 AM
3 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 30 January 2012 - 02:13 AM
#2
Posted 07 February 2012 - 02:39 AM
No one? I assume this isn't a bolt-on?
#3
Posted 08 February 2012 - 04:27 AM
I just did this job on Saturday. It could have taken 20 minutes. Instead, it took 6 hours, but 3 hours of that was spent getting stuff at the hardware store. Eeuroparts has a nice diagram of the whole system. I bought most of my parts from FCP, but Eeuroparts had some of parts that FCP was missing. Overall, it went together pretty well and it sounds good.
Parts you might be able to salvage:
Muffler hanger: rubber connection between the muffler and the mount on the car.
Rear muffler hanger: rubber connection between the tailpipe and the mount at the back of the car (called the hanger hook).
Exhaust hanger mount: There are two different types, depending on if it's the passenger or driver's side. They attach to the underbody of the car and hold the rubber muffler hanger in place.
Exhaust hanger hook: This is on the back of the car, just above the tailpipe.
You can examine most of these parts without jacking up your car. The exhaust hanger mounts on my car were fine, but the exhaust hanger hook was pretty rusty. (I should have replaced it, but I broke one of the bolts and wasn't in the mood to drill out two holes in the same day, so I just left it in place. Luckily, if you do break off the bolts there, you can just drill it out and get a new stainless M8 bolt and a matching nut to make it work again.)
Parts you need to buy for sure:
Exhaust clamp: connects the muffler assembly to the cat.
OK, so here's how you do it.
1. Jack your car up super high. As high as you can. Then go some more. Front and back. All four wheels off the ground. You might be able to do this using ramps, but I'm not positive. This is the most important point of the whole process. If you don't get the car high enough, you can't fit the new exhaust in.
2. Unbolt the exhaust hanger mounts (I think it was a 12mm socket) next to the muffler. These will probably come out easier, since they don’t see very much heat.
3. Pull the rubber rear muffler hangers off of the exhaust hanger hook and tailpipe. Examine the hanger hook. If it hasn’t broken off in your hand, then you may be able to reuse it. (I tried to take my exhaust hanger hook off, and I snapped one of the bolts. I should have just let it be.)
4. Figure out some way to get the exhaust clamp off. This is where the cat and muffler assembly meet. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off the head on one of the two bolts. With the head gone, I used a small prybar to separate the clamp.
Now you’re done with the removal. Old exhaust is now ready to come out the front of the car.
5. Slide new exhaust in place. The tailpipe goes over the rear axle and it is a huge pain to wiggle it into place because it has the mounts for the hangers sticking out (look at your tailpipe, you’ll see what I mean). The hanger mounts on the muffler assembly like to get stuck on the rear shock and spring. It requires lots of wiggling, especially if the car isn’t jacked up high enough.
6. Once you’re in place, bolt down the exhaust hangers around the muffler. This is a fun one. Hold up the muffler with one hand while trying to start the bolt with another.
7. Bolt the exhaust clamp over the ends of the cat and muffler assembly. The clamp will bend as you tighten it. That's what you want.
8. Put the rear exhaust hanger mounts back in place. You need to lube the rear exhaust hanger with Vaseline so that it slides over the rusty hanger hook.
9. Attach the tailpipe.
Done. This was my first exhaust and I was pretty nervous about doing it. From what I experienced, it seems like it would be pretty hard to mess up this job. You just have to be ready to drill out a couple of rusted bolts. If you have the factory exhaust, there shouldn't be any welding necessary. Good luck!
Parts you might be able to salvage:
Muffler hanger: rubber connection between the muffler and the mount on the car.
Rear muffler hanger: rubber connection between the tailpipe and the mount at the back of the car (called the hanger hook).
Exhaust hanger mount: There are two different types, depending on if it's the passenger or driver's side. They attach to the underbody of the car and hold the rubber muffler hanger in place.
Exhaust hanger hook: This is on the back of the car, just above the tailpipe.
You can examine most of these parts without jacking up your car. The exhaust hanger mounts on my car were fine, but the exhaust hanger hook was pretty rusty. (I should have replaced it, but I broke one of the bolts and wasn't in the mood to drill out two holes in the same day, so I just left it in place. Luckily, if you do break off the bolts there, you can just drill it out and get a new stainless M8 bolt and a matching nut to make it work again.)
Parts you need to buy for sure:
Exhaust clamp: connects the muffler assembly to the cat.
OK, so here's how you do it.
1. Jack your car up super high. As high as you can. Then go some more. Front and back. All four wheels off the ground. You might be able to do this using ramps, but I'm not positive. This is the most important point of the whole process. If you don't get the car high enough, you can't fit the new exhaust in.
2. Unbolt the exhaust hanger mounts (I think it was a 12mm socket) next to the muffler. These will probably come out easier, since they don’t see very much heat.
3. Pull the rubber rear muffler hangers off of the exhaust hanger hook and tailpipe. Examine the hanger hook. If it hasn’t broken off in your hand, then you may be able to reuse it. (I tried to take my exhaust hanger hook off, and I snapped one of the bolts. I should have just let it be.)
4. Figure out some way to get the exhaust clamp off. This is where the cat and muffler assembly meet. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off the head on one of the two bolts. With the head gone, I used a small prybar to separate the clamp.
Now you’re done with the removal. Old exhaust is now ready to come out the front of the car.
5. Slide new exhaust in place. The tailpipe goes over the rear axle and it is a huge pain to wiggle it into place because it has the mounts for the hangers sticking out (look at your tailpipe, you’ll see what I mean). The hanger mounts on the muffler assembly like to get stuck on the rear shock and spring. It requires lots of wiggling, especially if the car isn’t jacked up high enough.
6. Once you’re in place, bolt down the exhaust hangers around the muffler. This is a fun one. Hold up the muffler with one hand while trying to start the bolt with another.
7. Bolt the exhaust clamp over the ends of the cat and muffler assembly. The clamp will bend as you tighten it. That's what you want.
8. Put the rear exhaust hanger mounts back in place. You need to lube the rear exhaust hanger with Vaseline so that it slides over the rusty hanger hook.
9. Attach the tailpipe.
Done. This was my first exhaust and I was pretty nervous about doing it. From what I experienced, it seems like it would be pretty hard to mess up this job. You just have to be ready to drill out a couple of rusted bolts. If you have the factory exhaust, there shouldn't be any welding necessary. Good luck!
1998 V70 GLT, 216,xxx miles
#4
Posted 10 February 2012 - 04:11 AM
perfect. thanks so much for the help! I'll let you know if it takes me 6 hours like you...
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