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Engine Timing Question


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#1 sdancer

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 06:57 PM

So I recently had to replace a broken bolt on my cars crankshaft pulley. I ended up taking the belt off and the pulley off too. When i did this I accidentalymoved the intake cam. My question is, can i just use the IPD cam locking tool, IPD cam adjustment tool, and the existing timing marks on the cams and crank to re-time the engine? my plan was to rotate the crank and cams so that the crank mark is vertical and the cam marks are aligned with marks on the belt shield. Then I would lock down the cams and put the belt back on. Finally if needed I would use the IPD cam adjustment tool to get the pulleys adjusted. In my head this makes sense, is it enough? Thanks!

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#2 the commissar!

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 07:18 PM

how far did you move the intake cam? If it was just a little bit, I'd put the belt back on, spin motor with the crank till the crank mark lines up then verify the exhaust lines up and pull the belt to reset the intake cam. No need to use the cam timing tool as it is for adjusting the cam within the sprocket's range of adjustment which if I read correctly, you did not mess with.

You could of course completely reset the timing from the rear marks...
1998 V70 T-5 -Auto / Pewter - Turbo-Tuner,18T, HD TCVw/ Hallman Pro MBC, custom 3" DP w/ Volvo 2.75" sport catback - both wrapped and coated, RIP, IPD aluminum intercooler, intake w/ K&N cone, R ex. manifold, , gasket matched & polished intake manifold w/ thermoblock spacer, n/a TB w/ 960 plate, Optima bluetop, MSD 6aD and blaster coil, IPD plug wires, IPD poly bushing, Koni FSD w/ Eibach springs, IPD sways 25mm x 25 mm, blue silicone vac, silicone coolant lines, custom intake tubes grill to turbo, skid plate, front lower brace, cherry turbo strut brace, HD endlinks, 302mm brakes, Zeitronix wide-band/data-logger, Walbro w/variable fpr. In process: Home grown HD Endlinks, Meth/H2O injection, greens, catch can, fully built 2.3.
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#3 Keaton85

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 08:07 PM

Did you mark the bolt location on the sprockets before removing them?

and is the crank at the timing mark currently in relation to your image?

#4 sdancer

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 09:05 PM

I did not mark the pully bolts before I removed the pully but there are what I can best describe as 'wear' marks where the bolts used to be. As for moving the intake I moved it maybe 2-3 teeth and tried to put it back as best I could. I have not moved the crank since I took the belt off. So what I'm hearing is put the belt back on, rotate by hand and line up the exhaust cam, and pull the belt and move the intake to where it should be? Do I have to rotate the crank untill its mark is lined up? Or since most of the system has remained static it should be fine where it is? (from what I have heard is that some times you must rotate it twice to get to the mark sometimes and I dont want to have to do that and have to move the intake and exhaust cams, as I've been told). Sorry for any poor wording it's hard to type this on my phone.

Ps that immage is not my car

Ps that immage is not my car
98 S70 glt. ARD Green tune 17psi, 15g swap, OBX exhaust straight piped, IPD HD TCV, silicone lines, KONI FSDs, IPD Sport Springs, slotted rotors IPD, IPD strut bar

#5 Keaton85

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 09:08 PM

Reinstall the bolts in the correct location. then install the belt with like normal by moving the intake cam back on the marks. No need for a useless cam pos. holder.

I don't get what the issue is here? doesnt sound like there is one.

#6 Gilhuly

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 11:06 PM

Just move the cam gear back by hand or with a big screwdriver through a hole, put the belt on, rotate the crank 2 revs onto its mark, check that all marks are in time and you're good.
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#7 sdancer

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 01:32 AM

sorry, this is just the first time ive actually done the timing myslef and everyone i talk to keeps saying words like total catastrophic destruction if the valves hit the crank. I know if i rotate it and it clears it should be fine but ppl made me nervous. haha thanks!
98 S70 glt. ARD Green tune 17psi, 15g swap, OBX exhaust straight piped, IPD HD TCV, silicone lines, KONI FSDs, IPD Sport Springs, slotted rotors IPD, IPD strut bar

#8 the commissar!

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 03:16 AM

better safe than sorry...a couple of teeth is generally not a big deal. the idea here is to get the crank on its mark while simultaneously rotating the cams. hence installing the belt. if you rotate just the crank you will f it up. your close to in time, you rotate everything to where you can set it exactly...that's all, no big deal
1998 V70 T-5 -Auto / Pewter - Turbo-Tuner,18T, HD TCVw/ Hallman Pro MBC, custom 3" DP w/ Volvo 2.75" sport catback - both wrapped and coated, RIP, IPD aluminum intercooler, intake w/ K&N cone, R ex. manifold, , gasket matched & polished intake manifold w/ thermoblock spacer, n/a TB w/ 960 plate, Optima bluetop, MSD 6aD and blaster coil, IPD plug wires, IPD poly bushing, Koni FSD w/ Eibach springs, IPD sways 25mm x 25 mm, blue silicone vac, silicone coolant lines, custom intake tubes grill to turbo, skid plate, front lower brace, cherry turbo strut brace, HD endlinks, 302mm brakes, Zeitronix wide-band/data-logger, Walbro w/variable fpr. In process: Home grown HD Endlinks, Meth/H2O injection, greens, catch can, fully built 2.3.
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