12 replies to this topic

[fn42]

Doing a TB and while removing the water pump one of the bolts came apart (see pic)

Any advice on how to get this out... Can I just use some sealant and ignore it? What should I use?

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[bergmjs]

Soak it in PB blaster for a looong time and vibrate it or tap it with a hammer while soaking, then either use an external extractor or a pair of vice grips and slowly turn it out while continuing to tap with a hammer and spray with PB.

[atefitty]

That will leak for sure if you don't repair it properly. If you cant get some vice grips to grab it then you will have to get it as flat as possible without messing up the surface where the pump sits and use a screw extractor set..Hope you can drill straight!! Might need and angle drill too!

[Hanks]

extractor or last chance would be drill it out and retap.

[fn42]

PB'd it for hours and didn't get anywhere. Sucks =\

Can I replace the piece that the pump bolts on to? It looks separate from the block

[Keaton85]

It's the block...

You might be able to get and angle drill in there. Also you can try doing silicone high temp on both sides of the gasket only in that area. You only need a VERY this layer. Bolt it down snug, leave it for 24 hours then torque the bolts down so that you don't squeeze out the silicone when it's fresh.

Or get a volvo pump and JB weld it onto that area. You might not ever get it off but it will last 200k and that might outlast the vehicle depending on what is is..

[fn42]

98 v70 with an estimated 250k (odo is broken)

this was supposed to be a quick fix until I get a new car... the water pump had been leaking for a while but I was ignoring it, the tensioner froze one day (made a terrible noise) so I was gonna do a whole tb/waterpump job

the other thing is the thread for the bolt on the very bottom seems to be stripped so I don't get a lot of pressure on that bottom part. I don't know who did the TB last or when it was done but it probably wasn't a volvo specialist haha.


I will try jbweld tomorrow I picked up a new asin pump. Hopefully it holds on for the next week or so while I go car shopping.

[Keaton85]

This will be a permeant install though! unless the motor gets pulled and you rip the pump off.

If you were just going to use it for a little while then use whatever pump. Most likly any pump will outlast this vehicle due to the mileage and age. If we were talking about a 100K mile mint 98 then that would be different.

So whatever pump you were going to install, go for it.

Notes:
- Do a thin layer on either side of the gasket.
- Make sure everything is perfectly dry
- Let it harden for a good 24-48 hours until adding coolant
- Don't strip out the other bolts!!!

To the rest of the on-lookers, don't do this normally! this is an extreme circumstance situation!!!
-

[fn42]

so you would stil use a gasket? I was going to put a little around the edges of the pump then bolt it on

[Keaton85]

Don't JB weld the whole thing on there, just that small section!! Between the bolts but not around the set pin if it's still there. That will seal it and give you the most chance of getting it off if you ever need to. Unlikely that it will ever need to be removed again in that vehicles lifetime.

Yes use the gasket as you need to seal the rest of the pump.

[cn90]

Unless I am wrong but heat will help.

Use the Propane torch ($10 at hardware store) that plumber uses to solder copper plumbing pipes.
Apply heat on the broken stud for about 15 seconds.
Repeat the process a few times.
Multiple sessions of heating is better than one long session.
When finished with heating, let it cool down, then spray PB Blaster and let it sit for 15 min.
It should come out.

Proper use of heat is your #1 friend for stubborn nuts/bolts.

To prevent leak, just make sure the surface is nice and flat once done.

[renns]

Here's a trick that works great for broken studs like that. Find an old, clean hex nut that fit loosely over the remains of the stud. Fire up the mig welder, and weld inside the nut, fusing the remains of the stud to the nut. Grab a wrench, and twist the welded nut/stud out with ease. The thermal shock of rapid heating/cooling during the welding process tends to loosen the stud, and it will spin out with ease. If you have a welder (or even better, a friend with a welder!), give it a try.

[Hanks]

renns, on 07 February 2012 - 01:39 PM, said:

Here's a trick that works great for broken studs like that. Find an old, clean hex nut that fit loosely over the remains of the stud. Fire up the mig welder, and weld inside the nut, fusing the remains of the stud to the nut. Grab a wrench, and twist the welded nut/stud out with ease. The thermal shock of rapid heating/cooling during the welding process tends to loosen the stud, and it will spin out with ease. If you have a welder (or even better, a friend with a welder!), give it a try.

good idea, this is actually common on subies with the cam bolt they do the same thing and weld a nut on.

Edited by Hanks, 08 February 2012 - 12:35 AM.