Car Running Rough
Started by volvos70turbo99, Feb 03 2012 09:00 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:00 PM
just changed my plug wires and distributor rotor , took off, car felt fine, then couple seconds later car started running rough. I am getting a p0304, checked all connections, good, even tried reinstalling the old wires, still running rough, car was fine before all of this. The only thing i can think of is I had my screwdriver on the dist. cap screw and my wrench fell on the positive battery terminal and sparked. I don't know if I fried something, but i checked all the wires on the cap and they are in the right order and seated properly.
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
#2
Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:52 PM
misfire in cyl.4...The wrench shouldn't have been a problem if it just quickly "sparked"..Go back over everything and make sure Distributor is installed correctly and rotor is on correctly and not hitting any of the terminals under the cap..
Lesson number 1...The sparking wrench is why we disconnect the Neg. cable when working on the car.
Lesson number 1...The sparking wrench is why we disconnect the Neg. cable when working on the car.
Edited by scumcity14, 03 February 2012 - 09:54 PM.
'98 s70. has over 62 zip-ties
'05 xc/90. The stereo sucks.
"Crowded elevators smell different to midgets"
'05 xc/90. The stereo sucks.
"Crowded elevators smell different to midgets"
#3
Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:10 PM
scumcity14, on 03 February 2012 - 09:52 PM, said:
misfire in cyl.4...The wrench shouldn't have been a problem if it just quickly "sparked"..Go back over everything and make sure Distributor is installed correctly and rotor is on correctly and not hitting any of the terminals under the cap..
Lesson number 1...The sparking wrench is why we disconnect the Neg. cable when working on the car.
Lesson number 1...The sparking wrench is why we disconnect the Neg. cable when working on the car.
theres only one way to install the cap and rotor correct?
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
#4
Posted 03 February 2012 - 10:52 PM
my car actually idled perfect after the install and ran great for 20 seconds, then all of a sudden it started running rough and now idles rough.
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
#5
Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:03 PM
volvos70turbo99, on 03 February 2012 - 10:10 PM, said:
theres only one way to install the cap and rotor correct?
Also make sure crank sensor and cam sensor wires aren't being interfered by the coil wire.
Edited by scumcity14, 03 February 2012 - 11:04 PM.
'98 s70. has over 62 zip-ties
'05 xc/90. The stereo sucks.
"Crowded elevators smell different to midgets"
'05 xc/90. The stereo sucks.
"Crowded elevators smell different to midgets"
#6
Posted 04 February 2012 - 03:36 AM
ok so i swapped the old rotor, still running rough, cap is fine, very clean, theres only one way to put on rotor and cap so i know its right, so confusing.
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
#7
Posted 06 February 2012 - 04:41 PM
well heres an update on this, got the car towed to my mechanic, tried everything and he did a compression test and cyl 4..... 0., also cyl. 5 compression is low. He said he is not sure if its the head or the block yet, he also said its a 14 hr job to take apart the head, check it and put it back together, that seems a little much.
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
#8
Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:39 PM
so gonna drop another motor in this, which one would you guys pick, having my mechanic do this:
first motor: just under 70k miles, $950, 6 month warranty or 6k miles.
second motor: 77k $500, 30 day warranty
first motor: just under 70k miles, $950, 6 month warranty or 6k miles.
second motor: 77k $500, 30 day warranty
1998 s70 glt t5 converted - 16t, white injectors, nxs mbc @ 14psi, k&n drop in filter, high flow cat, full 3in. exhaust, dp, hd wg, na tb, ipd turbo hoses, ard orange tune, stage 0 complete
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