22 replies to this topic

[brad850]

Didn't wanna make another thread regarding my rms project but....

I figured with the engine out of the car it would be a great time to do the oil pan seals. Anyway, whoever installed the oil pan last I think used way too much sealant. Big chunks were oozing out of the block. I didn't want to break any bolts so chipped off as much sealant as I could see and then soaked the bolts in pb blaster.
Ending up snapping the majority of the shortest bolts that run the length of both sides of the engine.




Tried everything I can to get these out. Used two different bolt extractor kits. Two different bolt extractors even broke off inside the bolts.
I don't get how they can be THAT tight. I was wondering what other options I have to get these out and if you guys could help me decide.



I figure I can take that part of the block off ^^^ and send it to a shop to drill them out/ re tap. But I was wondering what taking that part off entails.
Im pretty sure the bolts that hold it on also hold on the crank bearings. If I can get it off without messing with the rods/crankshaft then I would be willing to do it this way.

Thankful for ANY input guys.

[bergmjs]

Were you only trying internal screw extractors? Or did you try a set of external ones as well?

Such as:
http://www.harborfre...kets-67894.html

[brad850]

Hmm nope. Aren't those just for when the head of the bolt is stripped? Even if they could grab the stud, some of them are so far in the block there's nothing to grab onto.

[bergmjs]

brad850, on 06 February 2012 - 05:44 PM, said:

Hmm nope. Aren't those just for when the head of the bolt is stripped? Even if they could grab the stud, some of them are so far in the block there's nothing to grab onto.

They're for stripped heads or studs. For the ones that still have a nub sticking out it's worth a shot. Use lots of PB on the threads and you can try applying some heat with a torch to the block.

[brad850]

Can anyone tell me If I would be able to take that part of the block off without upsetting the crank shaft/ rods?

[volvoskiah]

brad850, on 07 February 2012 - 10:43 PM, said:

Can anyone tell me If I would be able to take that part of the block off without upsetting the crank shaft/ rods?

I'm almost positive you can't

[Volvo5.0]

brad850, on 07 February 2012 - 10:43 PM, said:

Can anyone tell me If I would be able to take that part of the block off without upsetting the crank shaft/ rods?

You can take that apart. It looks like you have the motor on a stand. Flip it over and take it apart. The piece you take off will have the lower main bearing shells in it. Take them out, but make sure you keep them in order so you can put them back in there original spot. Then you can take the part to someone to remove the broken bolts.

There are 2 different size bolts that you remove to get that part of the block off. You will need to replace the larger ones because they are stretch bolts, and can only be used once. You will also have to torque all the bolts.

Almost forgot, you'll need to take the t-belt off so you can remove the oil pump since it bolts to the upper and lower part of the block.

Might just be easier to take the whole motor to a machine shop and have them remove the bolts, than it would be to take it all apart.

[laird]

You can leave the oil pump in place by removing the lower bolts that tap into the intermediate block, thus the timing belt can stay. You will need to take off the serpentine belt pulley to get to the two bolts in question.

[brad850]

Looks like I'm taking it off.

Just want to confirm... when taking it off, the crankshaft won't move at all... right?
Also, when putting it back on, do I use the pink volvo sealant?

[laird]

Yes, pink stuff. The crank won't go anywhere unless you lay the engine down or something silly.

[brad850]

Thank you sirrr

[brad850]

Are you positive removing the two oil pump torx screws will work?

Every part of the intermediate block seems to want to come off except the oil pump area. It feels like there is still something holding it on and I'm scared to pry at it too much unless I'm sure there is nothing else holding it on.

[Keaton85]

You have to get the pump off to get the lower section off. These is a little inset from the pump that holds on tight! Don't pry it or it wil bend the insert, I bent mine....

[brad850]

Should the pump slide out easily with the 4 screws and timing belt off?

Sorry for all these questions.

[SlapShot]

See the link below. It's the 10th set of photos. Hopefully it's of some help to you.

link

Edited by SlapShot, 26 February 2012 - 08:52 PM.

[brad850]

Ah ok thanks...I see my problem now is I didn't take off the oil pump gear



I'm guessing that's supposed to slide off?

[SlapShot]

Yes, that needs to come off to remove the oil pump. I rented the bigger of the two pullers that Autozone has. Came off pretty easily.

[brad850]

Got it off. You guys are life savers.

[z31jaime]

I'll almost bet mony that if they used that much sealer on the oil pan, they put lock tight on the bolts you broke off. This happened to me recently why changing a thermostat. the person Put lock tight and I ended up snapping both bolts. Next time you run into that issue try heating up the bolts with a torch and then turning them. this melts the lock tight and they come off super easy.

[brad850]

Anyone have the torque/angle specs for the three different intermediate block bolts?