13 replies to this topic

[fastwagonhawaii]

My most recent issue is spark. I was driving when all of a sudden there was no spark at all. Went from going 60mph to coasting to the side of the road, man it just died. I have plenty of fuel. and just replaced the cam sensor and I also have a throttle positioning sensor on the way. thinking of going back to stock coil just to double check that. So my question is : Is there any thing else besides the TPS, CPS, and the coil that can cause a no spark issue?

Thanks Again.

[Volvo5.0]

Engine Speed (RPM) Sensor

[fastwagonhawaii]

thanks, will look into that also

i9s this what u r referring to?
http://www.ebay.com/...r#ht_954wt_1163

[erikv11]

It is unlikely but for sure a bad ECU can cause no spark.

[cn90]

Maybe it is bad MAF (use Bosch only BTW).

Or bad fuel relay (or bad fuel pump).

To get spark from a to z:
1. Key
2. Ignition Switch
3. Crank sensors
4. ? Temp sensor
5. Ignition Coil
6. Spark Plug wires
7. Cap +Rotor
8. Spark Plugs themselves.

There you go, work through these things systematically.

[erikv11]

That's a nice, ordered list, for the record this is where the other necessary things for spark fit in:

3.5 Cam sensor
4.5 ECU takes info from the various sensors and tells coil to spark
5.5 Coil wire

[the commissar!]

This sounds elementary, but did you double check the wiring to the MSD coil...one loose wire there and you get what you describe...

[fastwagonhawaii]

Thanks guys for the info. thats exactly what I was looking for. Double checking my mental list. I am going to start from A to Z on this one. From the fuel side everything is good. I received a new maf yesterday. so we will see where that goes. Also replaced the cam sensor yesterday. I am going back to the stock coil and replacing wires cap rotor etc.I also have a new rpm sensor on the way. This actually got me puzzled this time. So I am going to replace everything that has to do with spark except the ecu.

thanks again for the list.

[cn90]

Why do you randomly replace parts?
Have lots of money LOL?

[fastwagonhawaii]

No, I don't have lots of money. I wish lol. the problem arose when i was driving and I usually can tell the problem by how it dies. but this time I was confused. I checked fuel and that was fine. so I replaced the maf since the one I replaced previously was a used unit. still nothing, replaced the coil with one I had bought before new but never used and still nothing. which is why I am going back to stock. I replaced the cam sensor with a known working unit but still nothing. so I ordered a throttle positioning sensor since before when I had another issue I remember I forgot to plug that in and there was no spark. so I am replacing that just in case. I am also going to replace the spark plug wires and cap and rotor just to rule that out also. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I have no codes to go off of. So I am going through it slowly until I get to the problem. I also have checked the grounds since I have had that issue also. Its a b---h and expensive but still cheaper than buying a new used car.

[fastwagonhawaii]

As I laugh at my self, After changing a lot of things that turned out needed changing anyway. I finally figured it out. I actually changed plugs wires, coil wire coil, cam sensor, tps, rpm sensor, and still would not start. So I went back to fuel. last time I checked there was fuel, but when i went back there was none, so i went to the back and pulled the pump. at first glance there was nothing so I took it apart so i can test the pump. when I disassembled it the black wire literally feel out. It broke off from the soldering point. at the top of the case. So I removed the old oem solder and what was left of the wire and soldered a new one in its place. problem fixed. I am a happy man.

[erikv11]

Glad you got it fixed.

[mojojo]

So, thinking about this post I found some humor in a few things...
As a mechanic (and following the same diagnostic trouble shooting procedure on everything from a lawn mower, to my Volvo, to any Hayabusa), I start with three simple criteria when trouble shooting any driveability issues, and this was beaten in to my head quite a few years back at a Suzuki technician course, always check the following things:

M - Mechanical If you didn't hear this thing run before it came in, or you had a loud clunk and then no run check (compression/leak down)
I - Ignition Check ignition system, check for spark at the plug, usually a spark gap test can tell you if everything is in good shape
F - Fuel Check for fuel or the absence of fuel (fuel pressure test, at the rail - read: after the filter, closest to injector-s).

In the future, if you trouble shoot these systems, usually a quick (>5 minutes) test can rule out the category, you will find your culprit much quicker, and with less money spent and time wasted replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
As I was reading your posts, I was anticipating the next issue to pop up because of unrelated repairs.

Good Luck

[fastwagonhawaii]

Usually I am right on these things but not this time. lol My dad popped me upside the head and said the same thing to me as you state in the above post.. ^^^ thanks for the info.