11 replies to this topic

[CarJunkie]

So i would like to open a dialog and get some feedback. I have recently decomissioned my 2001 Volvo S60 T5 as she needs a little work. I was thinking it would make a nice foundation for a project and make it an autocross or track day car with a little massage. The info on the car as it sits is below. I am looking for sound tuning input and modifications. Motor rebuild with HP increase and performance parts, Beefing up the trans etc.


2001 S60 T5
Auto trans
Solid body no rust fla car
Engine has 150,000 on the clock.

[mdlimy]

Well lucky at ARD tuning should have me7 tuning sorted out soon enough and like everyone will tell you, thats the route to go with tuning.
do you have any hp goals?
if it was me, some struts/springs and sway bars will help it handle miles better than stock.
a fmic, k24 turbo, bigger injectors, turboback exhaust, and a tune would make a pretty responsive fun setup.
my .02 cents

[JVC]

What Robbie said. Best bang for your buck for the track is going to be some lowering springs and IPD sway bars. Then maybe some bigger rubber and a tune, front mount, intake, exhaust in no particular order. Then a bigger turbo.

[Jardim]

Make sure you get a tranny cooler for your Auto box if you plan on adding power or running it hard (no pun intended). It will save you from a forced manual swap

[mdlimy]

Jardim, on 08 February 2012 - 05:11 AM, said:

Make sure you get a tranny cooler for your Auto box if you plan on adding power or running it hard (no pun intended). It will save you from a forced manual swap

+1 very good point, trans cooler would be a worth while preventative upgrade

[wizzard_al]

I'd add the following:

1. sway bars - iPD is too soft for the rear, Evolve adjustable bar is far better. I started with iPD bars, but never installed the front, only the rear. Roll distribution was much nicer, but I knew it would be too heavily aimed at understeer if I went to the front bar. Sold my rear bar to S80 owner, and got the Evolve. Bitch to install, they told me they've had 3 S60's with install problems. Apparently for some, you have to make shorter links for the sway bar links. I've got TKi, but even they need to be shortened a bit. Had to grind a lip off the lower control arms to avoid interference, but with shorter links, likely wouldn't have been needed. Massive difference. You still want more roll resistance in the rear than iPD gives you, and the Evolve set might even be better, both bars are adjustable, and that helps on the AutoX.

2. Strut bars - you need the Ultra bars from VIVA. Upper front, upper rear is not as noticeable, but still helps. I thought the upper front was the best, until I bought the lower front brace. WOW. Lucky from ARDideas drove the car, and he says it is the first P2 car (S60/V70/S80) that he has driven that has instant steering response. Before, you turn wheel, wait an instant or two, and then the car starts to follow. Now, turn wheel and car turns, just like that. I am seriously considering getting the only remaining bar left, the lower rear brace. I suspect it will help the rear end. Disadvantage: When you hit a sudden bump in road, the lower front bar prevents the subframe from moving backwards slightly to cushion the shock, so you feel it, but cornering is fabulous.

3. be sure your strut mounts and entire front suspension bushings, ball joints, etc are in top shape, any slop there ruins your work.

4. Can't comment on springs, kept stock T5 springs, they work fine for street, obviously want to get lower for AutoX. PM Lucky to see what he recommends for springs.

5. Trans cooler - probably a must item.

6. Oil cooler, I've got an article to show how to add a gauge for oil temp and that may be necessary. Likely not, AutoX is too short to really bring up temps on engine. If necessary, get dealer to sell the oil cooler for a D5 diesel, it has more cooling plates in it, and is probably about 1/2 inch thicker, thus more cooling without having to add extra plumbing, etc.

7. Oil pressure. I've not heard of anyone having problems with oil pressure on these engines, but to avoid it, start by replacing the O-rings between the pan and intermediate carrier, as well as on the oil pickup tube, because the o-rings can start to crack and let in air as they age from heat, and you don't want air bubbles in your oil as it goes through your bearings. Fast way to throw a rod. I"ve done it racing in a red block, not something I want to ever do again. Much expensive, usually new block, crank and rods, and perhaps some pistons for a start, and that's if you don't have a piston hit any valves. If you are worried, get an Accusump, which is simply an oil resevoir, used it in racing, kept several engines in one piece when I didn't have the oil drainback worked out properly, because as oil pressure drops, it shoots more oil into the engine. Just need a one way valve to keep oil going into engine, not backwards into pan.

[Jardim]

^Dry sump system would be nice. If this is truely a race car project and your not gonna be driving it every day then go all out. Dry sump not only keeps your engine lubricated under high loads and cornering forces, but it also keeps the oil cooler since it doesnt all go back to the pan directly under the 3000 degree firehouse.

[scumcity14]

Jardim, on 08 February 2012 - 08:46 AM, said:

^Dry sump system would be nice. If this is truely a race car project and your not gonna be driving it every day then go all out. Dry sump not only keeps your engine lubricated under high loads and cornering forces, but it also keeps the oil cooler since it doesnt all go back to the pan directly under the 3000 degree firehouse.

If your engine is 3000f you have other problems aside from lubircation...Aluminum melts at 1220.

[Jardim]

I think an old shop teacher told me it reaches close to 3,000 but thats 1 out of every 4 cycles and that's inside the bore.

I seen EGT's around 1400-1800 degrees so he could of been right...Idk

[scumcity14]

Jardim, on 09 February 2012 - 12:26 AM, said:

I think an old shop teacher told me it reaches close to 3,000 but thats 1 out of every 4 cycles and that's inside the bore.

I seen EGT's around 1400-1800 degrees so he could of been right...Idk

You are right about the chambers..The atmosphere in the combustion chamber during combustion can reach 3400-3600 but the temps at the cylinder wall are a lot less (cooling). Exhaust manifolds can hit 1800-1900 (turbos even more, especially if run lean)..the actual temps of the engine are far less..
I was mostly just being sarcastic anyway

[Jardim]

scumcity14, on 09 February 2012 - 12:58 AM, said:

You are right about the chambers..The atmosphere in the combustion chamber during combustion can reach 3400-3600 but the temps at the cylinder wall are a lot less (cooling). Exhaust manifolds can hit 1800-1900 (turbos even more, especially if run lean)..the actual temps of the engine are far less..
I was mostly just being sarcastic anyway

Lol your always being sarcastic. But yeah that's what i meant, Dry sump would keep the oil away from that crazyness.

There was a Mercedez back in the 50's or 60's that came factory with a Dry sump setup, people who drove it stated that it was rather unecesary because the oil wouldnt even reach operating temp

[CarJunkie]

Thank you to those that have posted responses. Lot's of good information. Now i have to sort thru it all and plan. I do have to put the nose back on my camaro first to make more room in the garage. Had to do a motor swap.