6 replies to this topic

[rmorse]

As title states, my transmission is leaking where the passenger axle enters it. How hard is it to change the seal? Are there any walkthrough available?


Also, is this what I need? Thanks!

http://www.fcpgroton...category_id/103

[volvoskiah]

rmorse, on 10 February 2012 - 06:45 PM, said:

As title states, my transmission is leaking where the passenger axle enters it. How hard is it to change the seal? Are there any walkthrough available?


Also, is this what I need? Thanks!

http://www.fcpgroton...category_id/103

Really easy, pull axle out, pull seal out, oil new seal, put new seal in, put axle back. Done!

[Flukey]

Yup, That is the seal you need. The job is very easy. If you have a lift or access to one, it would normally take about 20 min. If not add about anoother 30 min.

All ya need to do is remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, separate the ball joint, pry down on the control arm and push the outboard part of the axle thru the spindle/wheel bearing.
Next thing is pop the axle out of the final drive with a small pry bar. Now you can pop out the old seal and tap in the new seal. I usually use the old seal or sumthing similar as a seal driver.

Put is back togather in the reverse order. Check the ball joint for play and looseness while ya have it apart. Dont forget to check the tranny fluid or gear oil when your done.

[rmorse]

Awesome, thanks. I do have access to a lift, so should be easy. Do I need an alignment afterwords?

[Keaton85]

nope

[erikv11]

Flukey, on 10 February 2012 - 07:51 PM, said:

Yup, That is the seal you need. The job is very easy. If you have a lift or access to one, it would normally take about 20 min. If not add about anoother 30 min.

All ya need to do is remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, separate the ball joint, pry down on the control arm and push the outboard part of the axle thru the spindle/wheel bearing.
Next thing is pop the axle out of the final drive with a small pry bar. Now you can pop out the old seal and tap in the new seal. I usually use the old seal or sumthing similar as a seal driver.

Put is back togather in the reverse order. Check the ball joint for play and looseness while ya have it apart. Dont forget to check the tranny fluid or gear oil when your done.

These instructions are perfect for the driver side axle, but a little bit off for the passenger side like OP mentioned here. Additions/changes:

Once the control arm is off and the spindle separated, remove the two bolts on the carrier bearing, about halfway down the axle.
Then the axle will just pull right out of the transaxle, no pry bar necessary (and nowhere to use one, really!).
When you put it back together, use anti-seize where the axle goes back into the hub.
The axle nut i supposed to be torqued too, I don't knwo that value. Check the wheel bearing write-up if you want it.

That's all. When you install the new seal, be careful to not push it in too far. You want it flush with the outer surface. Check the old one before you take it out.

[rmorse]

Thanks for the info, guys! Just finished the job, it was super easy. The old seal didn't look bad at all though, so I hope this fixed it.