62 replies to this topic

[NJGreenBudd]

Thanks for the heads up on the cost of the head work, I was having a tough time finding any shops that are local and willing to do the work. I'll make a few more calls and see if I can find a better deal.

Re: rings, I did do a wet compression test with some 10W-30 on cylinder #2 and there was no change at all in the compression readings, doesn't this indicate the rings aren't the problem? The walls of the cylinders all look very good to me (probably not the best judge), while not visible in these pics you can still clearly see the crosshatching, no vertical scoring or anything that looks out of the ordinary.

I'm hoping most of my problems will be solved by having the head milled, new HG and bolts, and new turbo. Should run pretty clean if I'm on the right track.

[Keaton85]

I would just get the head pressure checked, valve stem seals and milled only if out of spec. That way you will find out if there are any leaking cylinders and if any hair line cracks show up due to the head gasket failure.

I ended up spending $300 on a clean, mill, valve job and cleaning the old valves on the last head I did (family vehicle). In my opinion that's high but they were the only shop that I trusted in town. So it all depends...

[NJGreenBudd]

I have been occupied with other projects but starting to get back on track with the wagon. Still need to remove the bottom end and trans. Just ordered a timing belt, idler, tensioner and waterpump along with cam seals and oil pan/pickup o-rings.

Using these threads here:
http://volvospeed.co...5t-into-an-850/
http://volvospeed.co...85-v70r-reboot/
http://volvospeed.co...ne/page__st__20

My basic plan is :

1. Use -98 Thermostat
2. Plug coolant port on back of RN block
3. Keep VVT Solenoid in place (don't use blanking plate)
4. Use -98 intake manifold, porting is not necessary, but you can
5. Drill out cams to accept cap and CPS

Here is the RN block with the -98 intake manifold and thermostat housing mocked up. I am planning to retain the newer breather box as it's supposed to flow better. I had heard the box or block would need to be modded to clear the intake but everything seems fine as is from the mock up. Still have to bolt the coolant port on the rear of the head that we're not using.







Still have to plug this coolant port, anybody happen to know the size of that bolt? You can also see here the cam seals need to be changed and the cam ends drilled to 7/16th inches to receive the distributor rotor and cps.


As she sits now