3 replies to this topic

[Bah]

So I finally got the 93 running some weeks ago and had purchased the new style of belt for it. Getting it on is loads of fun by yourself, but I did it. First I had a squeal that would go away at idle but come on at higher rpms. Intermittent but I chalked that up to the power steering pump. Now the squeal went away and instead I get a popcorn sound. Fearing bent rods or something, I looked at my belt. Its getting chewed into on the top side in sorta the middle of the belt. Take a closer look and see the tensioner pulley has the belt 3/4 on pretty much. So as I run, its I guess biting it on the plastic. The new belt I have is destroyed in this regard but I guess with 3/4 a belt I could still drive.
This is the old style tensioner on this car and im trying now to use the new style belt. Is this happening because im using the old style tensioner with the new belt? Should I try the old style belt and just live with it? Im gonna try back the old routing tommorow and see if it fixes. Otherwise is it the tensioner not providing enough spring for the new belt?
I replaced the tensioner pulley since it was sieging up some but that doesn't seem to have been the fix, as I put the new style fresh belt back on and begun to hear popping.

Im open to all ideas, but its clearly not seating properly on the tensioner pulley. I can't find this issue anywhere. I dont mind upgrading to the new style tensioner if I have to....but why did Volvo change styles anyways?


thanks again and im looking forward to all responses!

[Bah]

Since i realize this is kinda vague...here are some pics from the other day. The belt got much worse on the sides, but you can clearly see the wear i am talking about.








I read somewhere about a pivot bushing on these tensioners, and when they go you get the tensioner arm and pulley going crooked. Anyone ever heard of this?

I still don't understand why they changed tensioners, why they say the old styles are for manual transmissions and early 93's...
The most i saw was on 960's , that they said when they changed the width of the timing belts, they had changed the tensioner and all the pulleys to stick further out, but that doesn't coincide at all with manual transmissions or the fact that p/s pumps, alternators, are all the same P/N regardless of year/transmission.

Regardless of that, the only thing i can think of at this point, is that there is not enough tension and the belt is able to slide, or that the older style tensioner while new and in 100% good condition can handle the new routing, but with age simply cannot. Every post i've read of someone who puts a new one of these old style tensioners on with the new style belt, has the tensioner bouncing or dancing.......question is, why buy the old style tensioner even if you own a 93, aside from the 3/8inch hole, when the new style *SHOULD* bolt right in?

[Bah]

So i put an old belt on and it blew up on the road yesterday. grr.

Put the old style belt on today, and while now it doesn't make popcorn sounds, it is clearly still not staying properly on the tensioner, and i can see wear beginning. I'm gonna go pick up a new old style tensioner, a new old style belt, and route it all up and see if that fixes it. Does this sound like a tensioner issue? Even if the P/S pump pulley wasn't moving in the greatest fashion, it still should track/align right? The Alternator and a/c spin very freely, the p/s pump moves easily but doesn't keep moving like the alternator or A/C, so is that possibly it?

Before the head rebuild, the p/s gave no issues other than its slight leak.....the only difference is that i've since then put alot of pressure on that serpentine tensioner taking the belt on and off. The tensioner moves less at idle now, but, i can move the arm fairly easy with my hand and it has play inwards and outwards...so i'm really hoping this does the trick. Not a fan of throwing money at the car. Will report back tomorrow hopefully with good results.

[Bah]

I know im talking to myself here, but for any future readers;

The issue was infact the tensioner all itself. Could be the fact that mofo probably had 230k mile on the spring section, as the pulley had been replaced with a dayco. Either way, i knew it had some lateral motion, but, apparently that was enough to cause this wear. So if your serpentine tensioner appears to be able to wiggle back and forth, it's time to replace....otherwise you will chew through your belt within 10-500 miles and be stuck!

And FWIW i went with the old style belt since i'm using the older tensioner. While i'm sure the new belt works on it now, every post i have read shows the old tensioner dances much more then necessary with the new style belt. If you have this old tensioner, i would highly see if you can put the new style on, and change to the newer style idler pulley that supposedly goes with it.

Anyways, for anyone who needs refrence, this is what i found;

Serpentine Tensioner Torque (2 bolts to the accessory bracket) - 14.5ft-lbs, but i just did 15.
The old style belt you get from Advanced with be 6k-1625. I have heard 6k-1623 is the original original way back in 93-94, but, the systems will give you a 1625. No biggie, it fits! Remember, you SHOULD use the old routing with the old style belt. I doubt your belt or tensioner will last long using that shorter belt with the updated routing. I'm using a dayco (blech...), and the ribs are not as deep as the continental/OEM. Overall disappoint. Look for 93 or 94 960's, as they apparently had the same routing as the old style for us.


That's all i got. Hopefully anyone in the future who see's their belt start getting chewed up like mine will see this thread.