109 replies to this topic

[Yea-but...]

So, I have this 98 GLT with a 16t, full obx exhaust, and an ARD Green tune, as well as other go-fast bits. Unfortunately i have not touched intake, mainly because everyone says the stock box is great.
I would like to know where im at right now, and wondering how to get to 300...
I understand the limits of the tranny and will definitely increase the fluid changes.
I was thinking of an 18t with sconeman's tube and an ebay FMIC.
Before shelling out more i would like to know how much more the GLT rods can take. I am assuming they are weaker then the t5 rods, but im sure someone on here knows for sure.
Thoughts?

PS. I'd love to know about any other quirks that would make tuning the GLT a oh yeah!.

[volvos70turbo99]

i'd say your at 300hp or more , I have the orange tune and i think i'm close to 300hp, maybe like 280 something. The rods are the same in the t5 and glt i believe, glt just has higher compression. The rods are apparently good for 400hp that is with proper tuning and not having boost come on too early.

[Yea-but...]

Interesting. I heard 350hp. And i doubt it. not on a 16t anyway... and especially with no FMIC or intake bits. I really do hope they're the same!

also the "oh yeah!" was supposed to be something else. i guess no cussing

[volvos70turbo99]

yea def. not 350hp lol, screw hp , torque is what matters.

[Yea-but...]

I meant hp on the rods, and yea, i want my torques, but hp is a good measure of power, and it seems HP and TQ with modding these cars are similar. I'm just wondering if an 18t and ARD tune, as well as some intake things, such as an FMIC, will get me to 300BHP. not wheel.

[Deimos]

Parts lists do not tell you how much HP you're actually getting. Dynamometers aka "Dynos" do. You take wheel dyno numbers and with some basic math can figure out approximately what your BHP is. To get more accuracy, have to pull engine and set it up on an engine dyno.

[Yea-but...]

Yes, i know. I am going to dyno the car soon. But i was just trying to get some info out of the people who d have a confirmed 300hp. (or like 280whp) and what they did. I know it won't be exact, just a ballpark area of what i need to go that fast.

[Deimos]

Funniest part is that dyno numbers are not anywhere near what the actual force being applied at the wheel is, and most people don't know that. For example, in 3rd gear with an M56H with 4.00 FD you'd be multiplying torque to the wheels from the engine by 4.76 before drivetrain losses. 1st gear it would be 12.28 times. Even in fifth you get a torque multiplication of 2.8. And if you were to measure actual power at the wheel, it would be divided by those same numbers, although also losing some from the drivetrain.

And that's before you take into account the tire characteristics...

[Yea-but...]

Wow, complicated stuff. Thanks, learn something new everyday. How would an auto work on a dyno? lock it in 3rd?

[ozzimark]

16T is gonna be hard pressed to flow enough for 300hp. How much boost are you running with the ARD green?

[Yea-but...]

17psi. And i know, i was thinking about an 18t upgrade. I didnt know it even could get to 300.
I was thinking 18t and a Blue tune.

[Deimos]

Wow, complicated stuff. Thanks, learn something new everyday. How would an auto work on a dyno? lock it in 3rd?

I'm honestly not sure, never been there when someone's dyno'd a slushbox... logic tells me 2nd is the easiest to lock it in and use, but I don't know for sure. But ya, that's basically how drivetrain torque multiplication works.

[Yea-but...]

Okay, and im sure the dyno place takes care of that. Damn kids with their algorithms

[project_850]

Take it to the drag strip. Dyno's lie, trap speeds don't

[Yea-but...]

lol. Maybe... But do they really lie all that much?

besides, i like numbers. not just times

[volvos70turbo99]

The only reason i said i think you may be at 300hp now is because i was told i should be at about 280 something by a very reputable source from here, you have 3 extra psi but you will def get 300 and more with an 18t easily.

[Yea-but...]

Okay. I want to do it, any damage possiblities? like my tansmisson or rods?
I would like to hear from someone who KNOWS the rod strength. no offense....but its my rods. oh yeah! of all bitchs to replace.

[Yea-but...]

whats up with the "oh yeahs"?

[850wagonT5]

This thread has some wacky info being tossed around. :x

Op, you're going to be somewhere near (approximately) 240-245 wheel or around 275-280 crank with your parts at that boost level.

Gear doesn't matter on a load cell type of dyno...so it depends what style dyno you have access to. I'd recommend 3rd with the auto. Doesn't accelerate fast enough to present traction issues, and speeds stay manageable at redline (under 130mph). Converter locks up by 55mph and you can roll on to full throttle there.

18/19Ts on stock blocks scare me...its a funky turbo. The smallest exhaust turbine and the largest compressor possible in that turbo family. Spools faster than the rods prefer. Safer to run a larger turbo and deal with a little lag. But, with supporting mods, pretty much anything 18T and up can produce 300whp/345 crank or so.

[Yea-but...]

okay. I'll dyno and see. I do want that 18t...and what other turbos would you reccomend? i like the 18t option because its relatively chep (only a compressor housing)
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