3 posts in this topic
By Cori Nicole
So this is gonna take a lot of explaining, please hang in there with me.
I recently bought a 02 Volvo s40 1.9t, shortly after buying it, it needed some work done so I took it to a mechanic around here who boasts about his skill with imports. When I got my car back for the small fix, he informed that he accidentally broke my MAF in the process. He proceeded to tell me to drive it for 20-30 miles and the new MAF should acclimate itself to my car and the rough idle should go away, didn't trust it but I had somewhere I had to be so I left. I drove it for about 120 miles and not only did the idle/running rough problem get worse a check engine light came on. I pulled over and checked the codes and I got misfire on all cylinders and a dreaded p0171 code. I called him back and he took my car in, said it was a "faulty MAF" claimed he fixed it and sent me on my way. Two miles later the CEL is back on. I call him back and he tells me I'm on my own and he's done helping. I've checked the fuel pressure using a gauge, all clear. Checked all the hoses, all clear. Checked the MAF with a multimeter, all clear. I called a Volvo dealer and they told me it's likely the Fuel Trim code needs reset. I've had another mechanic tell me he believes it's the fuel filter/pump/regulator. My only concern is if it was one of the mechanics suggestions wouldn't the fuel pressure test not came back all clear? There's no fuel spillage into the exhaust, no smoke, no fuel smell in the engine bay. Only the CEL and the occasional stutter. The stutter only happens when I'm stopped and then start to excelorate it's like it loses power, bogs itself down then surges back to having power again.
Please any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I didn't know where else to go or ask, and this seemed like the perfect place.
Thank you in advance!
Body Style: SEDAN
Odometer: 99,000 km
Engine: 2.0L 5 CYLINDER TURBODIESEL
Transmission: 6 SPEED AUTOMATIC
VIN # AF7B8DEE9B8310161
Doors: 4 DOORS
Fuel Type: DIESEL
Drive Type: FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
Interior: BLACK LEATHER
VIR test shows no bugs
More info here
Got an offer from a friend that I couldn't refuse. Trade in that they weren't going to keep and send to the auto auction. 900USD is what I paid for it.
1997 T-5 wagon,automatic trans,133k,no rust. Just a crack on the passenger side rear bumper corner. Two lights were on the dashboard. Replaced the third light bulb and added coolant to the plastic reservoir took care of the two dash lights. I'll have and ask plenty of questions,this is my first Volvo.
Of course I can't leave anything stock for long,so I'll have some questions on that also. LOL!!
I've been around this forum and good old S40Concepts for many years. Decided to share my project with you guys.
It's 1998 S40 T4.
This car has mileage about 400 000+ km's.
I don't know exact mileage, because in Estonia car sellers used to fake these numbers. I bought it with 170k km's.
I've driven about 160k km's with it as it was a daily driven car. Last 5 years it has been in my friends' garages where I've worked on it.
So, it's pretty good shape considering the age and rough winters it has lived through.
Dynoed 430 hp / 550 nm this summer.
It has been good to me. Never broken down, I've driven over 8000 km's this year. I have to thank my tuner for this. I guess hardware has been good, too.
Managed to win at Estonian 1 mile race in A class (upto 2 litre turbo and 3,5 litres NA cars): 275 km/h / 171 mph.
My rev limiter is at 280 km/h (7000rpm).
7500 rpm should take me to 300 km/h :) Unfortunately, for that I have to travel to Germany.
So, here goes the mods list:
- B4194T engine
- B4194T2 cylinder head with stock camshafts
- Megasquirt 3 ECU
- Holset HX35 #12 divided @2,2 bar
- Autoverdi forged conrods
- Autotech modified pistons
- Stiffer valve springs
- Aluminum valve retainers
- Tial MVS 38mm external v-band wastegate (15psi spring)
- KKD Motorsports custom divided exhaust manifold
- Custom 3" exhaust with 1 middle resonator and rear muffler - pretty quiet :)
- Stock T4 wastespark coils, BCR8ES spark plugs
- China 600x300x63 intercooler and custom piping - no-boost/high-boost difference is just few degrees
- Bosch 1000cc injectors @3bar fuel pressure
- Adjustable Mallory FPR
- Walbro 255lph intank pump + 2x Walbro external pumps
- 2L Fuel surge tank
- 8mm fuel return line
- BC Racing coilovers
- SuperPro poly bushings
- Ultra Racing 19mm anti-roll bar
- Custom front strut bar
- Polyurethan lower engine mounts
- M56 gearbox
- Quaife LSD
- Sachs 707 pressure plate
- 850R clutch disc
- 850 flywheel
- Battery relocated to the trunk
- 20mm turbo oil return line
- AEM large air filter
- Mercedes van custom water radiator
- Subaru WRX front seats
- Alcantara covered dashboard
EGTs under 800C @25C outside temps at fullboost run.
Intake temp about 30C @25C outside temp at fullboost. Temp is decreasing when going faster at fullboost. Pretty good cooler.
I am sure I've forgotten many details. It's been a long time...
First dyno after the build, mapping to 2 bar
275 kmh run on 1 mile:
Little burnout at the start of the same run:
I will post more photos another day.
Btw, managed to outrun these nice cars this year:
Mercedes-Benz SL 55 AMG 5.5K (550hj)
Porsche 911 996 Turbo 3.6T (420hj)
Audi R8 5.2 (520hj)
Bmw M5 4.9 (400hj)
Chevrolet Corvette 6.2 (455hj)
Audi S7 4.0T (420hj)
Ford Mustang 4.6K (390+hj)
Bmw M5 5.0 (507hj)
Porsche Cayman S
Lamborghini Gallardo 5.0 (520hj)
Audi S4 2.7T (416hj)
Porsche Panamera 4.8T (500hj)
Bmw M3 4.0 (420hj)
Mercedes-Benz E55 5.4K (500hj)
Audi S5 3.0K (400hj)
MB CL63 AMG 6.3 (444hj)
Audi RS6 4.2T (450hj)
Dyno reads in wheel kw and nm.
OK, I'm stumped. Fuel line & control pressure are good (76/34 psi). Lambda Sond system checks out (frequency valve buzzing, ohms ok, all voltages on controller plug ok), new O2 sensor. Spark ok on each spark plug. Cold start injector sprays. Throttle body, flame trap cleaned. Air filter, fuel filter changed. Air flow disk centered and at level spec. All grounds & connector contacts (everywhere) cleaned. Fuel pump hot & ground wiring replaced with 10 ga.
TDC was checked with dowel and as seen in pics, cam pulley notch lines up with cam cover notch, aux gear (oil pump/distributer gear) is lined up with belt mark (no pic) and crank pulley notch lines up with block mark. Remanufactured distro's rotor is just before #1 plug wire.
However, when cranking, only a slight "huff huff huff" is heard. Although admittedly not at idle speed when cranking, the timing light shows #1 firing about an inch before the top lower belt, or approx. 135 degrees retarded.
"Dammit Jim, I'm not a mechanic, I'm an audio engineer!" I've gone as far as logic, Chilton, the green books and Bentley can take me. I'm hoping the deep experience on this forum can help with suggestions.
Back story: Car ran great for six years through upper midwest extremes. Choked to a stop one morning. Towed to a "performance shop" that had worked on the car before. They said gunk in the tank had clogged the in-tank pump sock and the pump had burned out and taken the pump relay with it. Replaced pump with new pump & sock from IPD + relay. Shop then said it needed a new aux air valve. Replaced that and it would start, but it would die under load. They told me it was a bad engine design and they were done it. I managed to get it home by revving it in low and doing two blocks at a time. The main pump was complaining loudly, so I replaced that, but no joy and low (18/38 psi) control & line pressures.
Thinking the problem must be downstream, I replaced the fuel filter, blew out the lines, had the WUR and fuel dist re-built, etc. etc. In the end, it turned out the in-tank pump from IPD had impressive flow, but not sufficient psi for the main pump. Installed new in-tank pump = all fuel pressure specs good. Oddly, now it wouldn't start at all. I wanted to make sure the timing was correct, so I replaced the timing belt and tensioner, distro, cap/rotor and coil. Nope. Also swapped an ICU from a salvage pull. No change.
Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated!
Note: the 1979 244 DL doesn't have a MAF, crank sensor, throttle switch, Hall sensor or IAC. The engine is a B21F-5 with K-Jetronic.