3 posts in this topic
Had a hard time finding the cause of loud engine tapping sound for several months. Initially I thought it was a leaking o-ring in the motor oil sump. I know ticking, loud lifters and injectors are common Volvo 960 S90 problems.
Finally, Robert at www.RobertSpinner.com suggested that I make sure it's running 10w-30 oil, use MANN oil filter, run 92+octane gas. Thanks Robert!
I did did all that Robert recommended, plus serviced the PCV and changed a few aging vacuum lines. Now the engine is purring silently like new at 123,000 miles.
Just installed new PCV into a S90, thought I share some step by step. I have done this on the 850 but on the S90 it seems more complicated getting the intake manifold out because of the engine orientation. You should take photos of everything you take apart if this is your first time so you remember how to put it back together.
Also, the PCV parts, I noticed some volvo dealers are selling 1993 960 for less than $40 online. Looking at the diagram it appears to be the same for the S90 at a much lower price. I wished I knew before buying the parts.
1) remove the power steering reservoir will give you more space to reach the left two bolts to take the manifold off.
the power steering reservoir 3x 12mm bolts are behind the round pulley, there are access holes on the pulley but you also need to take the serpentine belt off.
2) you may need to remove the thermostat housing too. (2 T-40)
3) open the blue cap at the end of the fuel rail, press the valve to lower fuel pressure. Gas will spill out so put a towel there.
4) remove the throttle cable assembly (two pieces) 5x 10mm bolts.
5) now you have room to take the fuel rail aluminum cover off, and gently pull on the fuel injectors to remove the fuel rain completely. disconnect any cables and vacuum
hoses that get in the way. take photos so you remember how to put it back together.
6) remove the air filter box cover, remove the air intake snorkel, and the big plastic elbow connecting the throttle body. Lots of wires and vacuum hoses to disconnect. take photos before you pull that apart.
7) now begin to remove a bunch of 10mm bolts holding the intake manifold to the block. they're on top, bottom, and one 13mm NUT at the very bottom that's very difficult to get to by touch only. Some of those 10mm bolts are hidden, so take a flash light and look! when they are all removed the manifold will move and you can pull it out.
8) Once the intake manifold is out you can see your intake valves, look for any gunk built up on top of the valves and clean gently as necessary.
9) unbolt 10mm from the PCV breather box. along with connecting vacuum hoses. Check the vacuum tree, it has 6 ports, only one is unused with a cap. My vacuum cap was cracked with holes probably causing a vacuum leak. Check and replace the vacuum cap and any replace any old vacuum hoses. They're cheap and local autopart store carry them.
10) Most difficult was getting some of those 10mm bolts off the manifold, and that 13mm nut way at the bottom. There are also some space issues moving everything out of the way to get to the PCV. Give yourself a good 5 hours because those 10mm and the 13mm can ruin your day.
By Cori Nicole
So this is gonna take a lot of explaining, please hang in there with me.
I recently bought a 02 Volvo s40 1.9t, shortly after buying it, it needed some work done so I took it to a mechanic around here who boasts about his skill with imports. When I got my car back for the small fix, he informed that he accidentally broke my MAF in the process. He proceeded to tell me to drive it for 20-30 miles and the new MAF should acclimate itself to my car and the rough idle should go away, didn't trust it but I had somewhere I had to be so I left. I drove it for about 120 miles and not only did the idle/running rough problem get worse a check engine light came on. I pulled over and checked the codes and I got misfire on all cylinders and a dreaded p0171 code. I called him back and he took my car in, said it was a "faulty MAF" claimed he fixed it and sent me on my way. Two miles later the CEL is back on. I call him back and he tells me I'm on my own and he's done helping. I've checked the fuel pressure using a gauge, all clear. Checked all the hoses, all clear. Checked the MAF with a multimeter, all clear. I called a Volvo dealer and they told me it's likely the Fuel Trim code needs reset. I've had another mechanic tell me he believes it's the fuel filter/pump/regulator. My only concern is if it was one of the mechanics suggestions wouldn't the fuel pressure test not came back all clear? There's no fuel spillage into the exhaust, no smoke, no fuel smell in the engine bay. Only the CEL and the occasional stutter. The stutter only happens when I'm stopped and then start to excelorate it's like it loses power, bogs itself down then surges back to having power again.
Please any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I didn't know where else to go or ask, and this seemed like the perfect place.
Thank you in advance!
Body Style: SEDAN
Odometer: 99,000 km
Engine: 2.0L 5 CYLINDER TURBODIESEL
Transmission: 6 SPEED AUTOMATIC
VIN # AF7B8DEE9B8310161
Doors: 4 DOORS
Fuel Type: DIESEL
Drive Type: FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
Interior: BLACK LEATHER
VIR test shows no bugs
More info here
Got an offer from a friend that I couldn't refuse. Trade in that they weren't going to keep and send to the auto auction. 900USD is what I paid for it.
1997 T-5 wagon,automatic trans,133k,no rust. Just a crack on the passenger side rear bumper corner. Two lights were on the dashboard. Replaced the third light bulb and added coolant to the plastic reservoir took care of the two dash lights. I'll have and ask plenty of questions,this is my first Volvo.
Of course I can't leave anything stock for long,so I'll have some questions on that also. LOL!!