46 replies to this topic

[S80T6P_T_M]

Hello All, I am new to Volvo as well as this site. I have experience with many American cars from old school to newer supercharged\turbo models (the only FWD I could stand) and this is my first foreign car, a 2002 Volvo s80 T6 with 181,0xx mi, very clean interior, and nice body other than a few door dings. Good news is there are service\maintenance records. Ill come out and say it, I researched this car before purchasing and there were a few people telling me they checked the car out and I should not get it due to a leak, specifically a Trans leak. I had an opportunity to go over this car with as much time as needed; I looked at it and drove the car looking for a leak. no constant leak other than the spill from sitting for a year which was about a half a quart. Despite all the bad things I have researched, I needed a challenge like this one to have a change of pace in my my car world. Besides that I started the negotiations at 1300 (with my uncle, it was his girlfriend’s old car) and wound up at $1000... It’s my car now... So here are my Questions on tips needed as I am looking for as many sources to get this S80 up to par and then try new things with possible good results:

1) Can someone with good knowledge on this car please tell me anything I should check, replace, test outside the norm\basics i.e. oil change, tune-up, radiator flush. Possible Trans flush/fluid-filter change.

2) My new S80 starts right up, but has a rough idle, seems to have a dead cylinder but will drive with decent power. I’m positive there’s more to the T6. So I researched the issue, call my best friend who is a master mechanic/diesel mechanic and tell him to hand over his snap on SOLUS scanner. So excited to use all the advanced features over a smaller less expensive scanner he told me he doesn’t know if it will scan a Volvo. I found out it was not upgraded with the European car software, but I was able to read the codes and live data and this is what I got for the codes.
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
Please correct me if I’m wrong, The P0108 seems to fit with the post I found where the MAP sensor is bad due to cheap design and the soldering could be cracked or damaged inside, so I should attempt to clean the connectors/the solder fix or find a replacement MAP sensor.??

P0-104-102-101 to me points to a dirty or malfunctioning MAF sensor, I’ve tested MAFs on fords, but I wouldn’t think it’s the same. My plan is to clean connectors, clean MAF elements and housing, test voltages input/output if good clear code and see where I am. Any tips??
P0110 I have not found an IAT sensor but I am thinking it is in reference to the sensor on the MAF... Any help is appreciated. I can’t wait to get my new toy on the road...I will post Pics of it now soon and my appearance progress pics...

:-)

[S80T6P_T_M]

I know theres a Volvo Master out there that has run into some of the issues, looking for a little help on Volvo s80 issues.. thanks in advance

help

[JRL]

You probably need a new MAF sensor
Buy a Bosch (aftermarket) it's the same as the Volvo blue box MAF, and go from there

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks JRL I'll give that a try and clear the codes.

[Ihatespeedbumps]

Agreed with trying a new MAF. Cleaning them won't get you anywhere. Of course with these codes you should always check for vacuum leaks.

As JRL mentioned, buy a Bosch MAF only. The cheaper aftermarket brands are absolute crap.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Update... checked all connections for the MAF and checked for visible vacuum leaks, I found one bad connection, a half inch aluminum tube connected to the turbo intercooler tubes that were just about off. I believe this may be routed as some sort of waste gate vacuum tube. After connecting there was an improvement in the idle, but it still rough sort of like a miss but there are no misfire codes. With the engine running I unplugged the MAF sensor and the idle gets worse. The test drive seemed to be worse now, there’s a little black smoke at start, it’s sluggish and there is a big lack of power and as there seems to be a misfire there is a surge with the lights dash and etc... I have not tried this with the MAP sensor as of yet but that what I will test in a few minutes here.

Question:

Does anyone know the voltage test procedures for the MAF as well as the MAP? I will buy sensors if needed but I want to make sure that it’s the proper diagnosis before shelling out hundreds of dollars and still have the same issue.

If problems are corrected will code clear automatically after a number of test drive cycles?



Any tips or Guidance is greatly appreciated, I just want to get this car running and everything to OE specs.

[S80T6P_T_M]

PICS OF MY 2002 S80 T6 AS I TRY TO GET IT RUNNING A1..
Still need tips and advice as I gather everything I need to bring this one back to original running order.

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[S8ET6]

Check the long hose that runs under the intake from the drivers side and terminates in the middle of the intake. You can see it from the front/top of the manifold between cylinder 3 and 4.
There isn't many vacuum hoses on your car. I would consider replacing each one if I were you.
The IAT sensor is on the cold side intercooler piping in front of the intake manifold.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks for the advice IHATESPEEDBUMPS as well as S8eT6.. maybe you guys can give me advice on the new issue... ...UPDATE2: I finally got a chance to work on the 02' S80 T6's issues. so the first thing I was going to do is test the MAF signal and voltage but decided to clean it really good first to see what happens since I had the MAF cleaner handy. I cleaned it as well as the MAP and IAT sensors\connections. i did disconnect the battery for over 30 minutes to clear the codes as well as the adaptation of the computer. I replaced a few clamps for the P/S low hose and a vacuum line. after all of this I decided to use seafoam to clean the crank case so i poured 1/3 can in the oil and 1/3 in the tank. So now I re-connected the battery and went for a test drive. the car now runs better than it did, AND THE RPMS now rev higher than 3500-4000 but seems to still have slight miss. I can hear there is more power and I can hear the turbos working now. I’m on my way now to get a set of plugs and an oil change kit. I am very optimistic that the plugs may put me closer to "stage 0". But there is a new message after the test drive. NO OIL PRESSURE SHUT ENGINE OFF..... I think and hope its the seafoam that changed the oils viscosity and needs an oil change. Any advice on the new message is greatly appreciated as well as any others..

Thanks

[S8ET6]

Change the oil and oil filter. Also, what rpm does the car idle at? To low of an idle will cause a low oil pressure light.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks again S8ET6.. I have a new favorite site\forum.. VolvoSpeed. You have all been very helpful for a new Volvo owner. This volvo has been growing on me with the exception of a front spoiler and grill ...and maybe some bigger wheels, but noting crazy. out of 6 I joined only two has helped and VolvoSpeed is up there with one other, but no need to call names. So heres my S80 Status

In the morning I will get plugs, oil (still need the ppls choice on the best oil to use) filter, Oring, drain plug washer. and install. If i get it right I will have this bug I always get with my favorite cars in my life time. (a long post that would be) Im just gettting excited about the possibilities and potential of this car.(drem BIG!!.. LOLZ)

Back to it.. The RPMs were between 1100 and 1300 I believe no surge, didnt have the scanner today and i was so excited on the progress. I didnt get the new message until after test drive with seafoam. Changing oil and plugs should give me some improvement but Im wndering now. Should I seafoam the vaccum system, Ive put 1/3rd can in crankcase and gas tank alerady and i noticed from the time I started it until after test drive, the Idle improved gradualy.

Ill go with my original plan and wait for the Jury on the seafoam..

Thanks again, can wait to help someone here for somehing I have knowledge on..
Im mobile now sorry for the typos

[S80T6P_T_M]

Ok hers an edit for the last post: The Idle speed is 750-800ish, when the rpms get to or above 1100-1200 the no oil pressure light\message pops on, once the idle returns to normal the light goes away. I still have a little surge in lights and etc.. there seems to be a miss/stumble while idling.. still going to change plugs, oil, filter to see where I am.

[Ihatespeedbumps]

I don't like the sea-foam idea. It really doesn't fix anything, just dislodges a bunch of stuff.

The oil pressure light coming on is probably due to bad oil pan o-rings (search this site) You'll want to get that resolved before you cause catastrophic damage.

When changing the plugs, use Genuine Volvo ONLY. Nothing else. Also, inspect the coil packs for cracks by pulling down the rubber boots. If you see them this can cause a poor running issue, but usually they don't go long before flagging a CEL.

As for the surge, look into cleaning the ETM (read thread pinned at the top of this forum) Hint: Do not spray carb/brake cleaner into the throttle assembly, it will damage it.
Spray it on a rag first. If you need to spray something in the ETM, WD-40 is safe to use.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks for the guidance Ihatespeedbumps, I never used seafoam before but I felt a little brave (Beer!) when I poured it in after contemplating if i should use it or not. Ill check the oil pan o-ring and see if I need to change it, as for the surge\ETM its not my top priority so Ill save that for later maybe after the tune-up. One question would be why would the light all of a sudden come on only after MAF,MAP, IAT sensor cleaning and a little seafom to the oil and gas?? IDK Ill change the oil, filter and checkout the pan o-ring.

thanks again

[S80T6P_T_M]

Now I may be closer to stage 0. But still need advice... I changed oil\filter, changed plugs (.028), inspected plug boots. All old plugs were brownish in color, #2 as not. Checked all coil connections, wiring and grounds.. Car runs smoother an quieter in idle, but there is a slight, slight rough\vibration\shake... i also noticed after letting the car warm to temp the past few days before the oil change, I noticed an rotten egg smell, but went away after test drive. I have had a car battery emmit this smell in the past but its not the battery, but wait.. after the test drive or idling to temp, I hear light knocking/rattling in sync with the RPMs?? My first time under the car I spotted what looks long muffler along the area of the rear doors.. This is where I can hear rattling from best. vissualy I see the outters of this resinator\muffler pilling badly, I can hear it slightly from the tailpipe to. So the cold test drive was smother running, but acceleation is better but weak, never knew how an S80 should pull, this cant be all.. somethings missing. One thing i will do is replace all vacuum lines and out of curiosoty i want to perform a smoke test on the vacuum line system.
My questions are:
Did my cats take a dump i.e. rattling\smell\weak acceleration??
What vacuum line is best for smoke testing the system??
could the shake be mounts that are shaking the exuast as a part of the noise I hear??


please for give my typos as I broke my key board and its a struggle to type..
Thank fellas for any help...

[S80T6P_T_M]

Okay today I checked all of the turbo hoses and found a slightly weak clamp or two and replaced. Still running smooth in park, but I let it warm up to get a feel for what’s going on with the exhaust. I know for sure the knocking\ rattle is coming from the resonator (before the rear muffler). I finished peeling the outer casing from it and gave it a few good blows with a hammer to see if it affects the noise. After a few blows to it the noise quieted, but I could still hear it. A few more hits and it stopped, 2 more hits it’s back again. Has anyone ever run into this? Would a good solution be to cut it off and install a straight pipe?? I also have concern as while in idle, the exhaust shakes a lot... Mounts somewhere maybe?? The cat seemed to be letting some steam\smoke\heat off in its area possibly burning off from a P/S leak that was everywhere but I fixed that 2 weeks ago. I am thinking the resonator or something is clogged somehow and I need help to figure the best diagnosis of what it could be...

Any Help is greatly appreciated...

Thanks

[S8ET6]

My questions are:
Did my cats take a dump i.e. rattling\smell\weak acceleration??

Could have... take a rubber mallet and hit the convertors. If they rattle then you need to change them.

What vacuum line is best for smoke testing the system??

I don't know because I did a leak test as opposed to a smoke test. The materials cost me less than 10 bucks (assuming that you have access to an air compressor)
Did you replace the vacuum lines yet?

could the shake be mounts that are shaking the exuast as a part of the noise I hear??

Could be. Are you sure that its not the lifters that you are hearing?


Edit: Missed your last post. Sounds like you may need to invest in a new exhaust. I'd recommend a 2.5" cat-back solution. Don't eff with the down pipe unless you are sure that you have clogged convertors. And if the convertors need to be replaced, insist that they reinstall the O2 sensors in the same position as they are on the stock DP.

[S80T6P_T_M]

S8ET6, You are a big help and I appreciate it, you are in Chicago, I’m in Michigan and I swear if I get this thing on the road and stable, I coming to the windy city for a club meet\or show or something and I owe you the first 3 rounds of beer or whatever you favorite drink is....

Okay, the smoke test should work from a hose connected to the intake. I want to replace the vac lines today, but I’ll have to do some searching for and import parts store or maybe home depot. Advanced and AutoZone’s barley have a spark plug or oil filter for this car. Should I look for silicone hoses?? Also there are a few check valves, elbows and T's, can I clean or should I replace??

I will use a dead blow mallet on the cat to listen for a rattle; actually I did tap it lightly and did not hear anything. But I’m positive where the noise is and I’m sure it’s not the lifters. Only sound going on under the hood would be the injectors, which I had to get used to. That sound is not usually good on US cars.

What is the best 2.5 cat-back system for this car? I could I have a custom cat back built cheaper than a kit But I’d like to pick the best sounding/quality components. I would prefer to get a dual tail pipe outlet to go with a rear spoiler that I scoped out for later. I have a little spending money and ready to go shopping...

Thanks again...

[S8ET6]

S8ET6, You are a big help and I appreciate it, you are in Chicago, I’m in Michigan and I swear if I get this thing on the road and stable, I coming to the windy city for a club meet\or show or something and I owe you the first 3 rounds of beer or whatever you favorite drink is....

Okay, the smoke test should work from a hose connected to the intake. I want to replace the vac lines today, but I’ll have to do some searching for and import parts store or maybe home depot. Advanced and AutoZone’s barley have a spark plug or oil filter for this car. Should I look for silicone hoses?? Also there are a few check valves, elbows and T's, can I clean or should I replace??

I will use a dead blow mallet on the cat to listen for a rattle; actually I did tap it lightly and did not hear anything. But I’m positive where the noise is and I’m sure it’s not the lifters. Only sound going on under the hood would be the injectors, which I had to get used to. That sound is not usually good on US cars.

What is the best 2.5 cat-back system for this car? I could I have a custom cat back built cheaper than a kit But I’d like to pick the best sounding/quality components. I would prefer to get a dual tail pipe outlet to go with a rear spoiler that I scoped out for later. I have a little spending money and ready to go shopping...

Thanks again...

Thanks. You need to check out the MWC chat thread under the regional section... We meet up on a regular basis and you're more than welcome to attend the next one.

Ive had silicone lines for the past 5-6 years and they've held up well over time. Unfortunately, the company I purchased mine from no longer has a good reputation, so I can't refer you to them. However, if you search VS I'm sure that you can find another source for silicone hoses.

As for the exhaust, a custom solution would be your best/cheapest bet. I purchased a magnaflow muffler online for about $70 with shipping and had my local guy replace the old system with 3" piping from the cat back. I also deleted the resonator. I don't suffer from drone at any rpm with this setup

Edit: oh, and keep in mind that bad cats should throw a code. So if you don't have a CEL then I guess you can assume that they are not clogged.

[S80T6P_T_M]

So I fixed the resenator rattle issue and there is not a clog in the Cat.(no CEL) I have the car running smooth in idle a little rough when the rpms get higher, and while driving. It still seems to be in limp mode and is very sluggish while accelerating and the car does not want to go. So with that said, I want to look for my next task at hand.
I want to perform a vacuum leak test on the whole system, what would be the best method smoke or presure test? I will also look to get a new tank of gas and a new filter as the gas in the tank is almost empty and is at least a year old. One question I have is what is the best way to rest the computer to have the computer re-adapt to the engine?? I read that I can disconnect the negative terminal and touch it to the positive for 30 seconds and that will clear it. Not sure if that works but by me just disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes did nothing. Is there anything else I should be looking at or testing.. getting close to a brick wall here.. I an greatful for any help..

Thanks