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andyb5

Andy's 1999 V70 R

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50 minutes ago, andyb5 said:

.  Opened the hood to confirm my transmission mount had snapped the same bolt as last time :monkey: Unlike last time, I haven't done anything to provoke this one.  I fucking hate this car sometimes.  Guess I'm going to remake that bracket, because even though it'll take 2 minutes and $0.50 to repair, it's sure as hell really annoying to have this as a recurring issue.  

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Wait - you mean the M7 bolt at the rear of the trans bracket into the casing split? What grade bolt did you use and what length? Did you helicoil/ timesert the threads in the inner case? I had trouble originally (2008) because the bolt I used didn't go all the way through the rear casing, and worked lose, allowing excess load to occur. Can you elaborate? If there is an issue with the bracket I made, I need to fix it

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2 minutes ago, lookforjoe said:

Wait - you mean the M7 bolt at the rear of the trans bracket into the casing split? What grade bolt did you use and what length? Did you helicoil/ timesert the threads in the inner case? I had trouble originally (2008) because the bolt I used didn't go all the way through the rear casing, and worked lose, allowing excess load to occur. Can you elaborate? If there is an issue with the bracket I made, I need to fix it

PM sent.  But yes, that bolt failed, it wasn't on the car when I examined it on the lift.  After the first one snapped off in the trans casing, I drilled out the old one, and put in an 8mm grade 10.9 bolt (~70mm length if memory serves) that went straight through the casing and used a nut on the backside.  

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Replied to your pm - I need to fix it for you. I apologize for the trouble. 

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Sweet brakes man, where'd you get them? :wink:

I just reread your thread all over again (slow day at work) and it's making me rather excited to get back into the P80 world. Keep it up bro, I may be at Ben's some time in early March to take a look at a few things. I know you're a short drive away so I'll give you a ring when the time comes if you wanna swing by.

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To follow up on the trans bracket issue, Hussein sent me a new trans bracket that had a piece of tube on the end instead of a socket like my first bracket had.  Old on top, new on the bottom.

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So far, so good.  No issues and the bolt is still holding tight :smile:

A little while ago, I hit a car that was parked outside my apartment's driveway.  I dented up my passenger side rear door pretty good, and bought a replacement door from the 99 R Adam was parting out.  I also purchased the fuel pump assembly, OEM front passenger axle, and a few miscellaneous other parts.

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Got the door installed yesterday.  I need to remove the pinstripe, but it's nice to have that issue taken care of.

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Today, I pulled the factory sunroof out.  It's been in poor shape since I bought this car, and I've had a replacement waiting to be installed for a while now.  The seal at the edge of the glass had separated from the glass, allowing water to enter and creating a ton of wind noise.  I've run a bead of silicone around the edge of the seal a few times to stop the leaking, but it was never 100% effective.  You can see the silicone as a dirty ring inside the edge of the sunroof.

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The inside frame had become quite rusty as a result of years of water entering where it shouldn't be
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After successfully removing my sunroof trim (without breaking it) I tore the rest of the interior out to get the headliner and sunroof cartridge out.  

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The sunroof is fairly heavy and awkward to maneuver, which makes this is a pretty crappy job to do by yourself (like I did).

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In terms of function, nothing is different than it was before, but the reduction in wind noise and knowing it won't leak has already made regular driving much more enjoyable.  With most of the interior out, I was able to eliminate a few squeaks/rattles, and adjusted the tailgate latch the hold the door tightly and stop it from rattling over bumps.  Small things, but they make a huge difference just in driving around town.

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Impressive to get it out by yourself. I did this job in my s70 and it was very much a two man operation. Maybe in a wagon you could lay down and hold it with your feet while removing the front bolts. 

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Nice work!

This reminds me, I have my sunroof panel that I refinished & resealed. I'll have to bring it to Carlisle. :)

 

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On 3/21/2016 at 7:05 AM, apeacock said:

Impressive to get it out by yourself. I did this job in my s70 and it was very much a two man operation. Maybe in a wagon you could lay down and hold it with your feet while removing the front bolts. 

no, you just gotta use your head man ... literally :) 

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I've been driving without a front swaybar for the last 9 or so months. The stock front bushings combined with the car being lowered repeatedly killed endlinks. I removed one endlink until I figured out some adjustable endlinks and had an opportunity to replace the stock bushings that had deteriorated over time (thanks oil leaks!) 

I had originally planned on removing the factory bushings (that are vulcanized to the bar) repainting my stock bar, installing poly bushings and adjustable endlinks when I replaced my PS rack last fall. In the comedy of errors that is my life, I ordered the wrong size poly bushings and wasn't able to reinstall the bar. I've just driven the car without a sway bar since then. The body roll was annoying but not awful. The nice part was how close to neutral the chassis balance was; understeer was almost totally gone.

The other night I finally got it all installed and it's ridiculous how much less body roll, and the shift back towards understeer is less pronounced than I expected.  Sweeping ramps and twisty roads are significantly more fun to drive now 

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Stock 21mm bar with Energy Suspension poly bushings.  The Teflon tape is a little trick I picked up from motoiq.com to  help reduce friction when installing poly suspension bushings 

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The endlinks are (hopefully) my solution to having a nice adjustable endlink that won't be a pain to maintain like QBM style ones are. Having experienced firsthand the issues that heim joints have on daily driven cars here in the northeast, I didn't want to use heim joints; even with rubber boots they're destined to fail.

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By maintaining the stock style rod-ends, I'm hoping that I'll keep a good service life. I simply chopped a few inches out of the endlink, and then threaded one half with a RH thread and one with a LH thread to match the turnbuckles I bought at Lowes. Add a couple jam nuts, and they're done. The cost came out to be about half of what a "QBM style" heim joint setup would cost. Admittedly, since this was kind of a "proof of concept" run, I used a set of cheap Karlyn endlinks so I'm not sure how they'll hold up, but in the case that I totally screwed up and destroyed them, I wouldn't feel bad about wasting nice parts :laugh:

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(The black paint is so my pea brain could quickly ID which end was LH thread) 

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Fancy solution! Welcome back to having a front sway bar. And, the body roll was really noticeable by the way. Now you'l hit the tree forwards instead of backwards (according to Top Gear)

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On 4/30/2016 at 8:54 AM, apeacock said:

Fancy solution! Welcome back to having a front sway bar. And, the body roll was really noticeable by the way. Now you'l hit the tree forwards instead of backwards (according to Top Gear)

:laugh: Thanks man.  I'm still working on ways to hit the tree backwards again!

Got an alignment for the first time since buying the car :huh: but my front bumper was too low to get onto the lift. 

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I've spent entirely too much time dealing with axles the past few months:

First, I went to install the OEM passenger axle I bought from Adam to replace the junk Advance Auto one I installed last November  (OEM top, Advance bottom)

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And found one of my lug bolts had snapped off in the hub.  To add insult to injury, it snapped off in the wheel bearing I had replaced last November.  I tried unsuccessfully to drill it out and use an extractor, but all I did was break the extractor in half :monkey: :mad: 

So I took the hub off and installed my old one until I can get a shop to extract the busted lug bolt.

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My drivers axle split the inner boot the night before the Ithaca Euro Meet

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The inner boot ripped nearly all the way around, and did a very effective job of slinging the grease allllllll over my formerly nice clean transmission.

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As far as I can tell it was original to the car, and with ~206k on it, I guess I shouldn't have been surprised that the boot failed.  The timing sure sucked though :monkey: 

So I installed a spare axle from Matt's C30, and made the drive on out to Ithaca.  Had a great time seeing everyone out there

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Rebuilt my axle with OEM boots from Tasca

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Tore it down, cleaned everything up, and reassembled it all

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At some point in the middle of all of this, I moved to a new apartment.  The wagon towed this trailer with great ease - between the Brembo's and coilovers/nivomats, it was like the trailer wasn't even there. 

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I also bought a remanufactured driveshaft from a 00 R that has the larger (more durable?) carrier bearing so my wagon is now AWD again.  One slight modification is needed to run a 00 R driveshaft in a 99 R.  The 00 carrier bearing bolt hole spacing is narrower than the 99 carrier bearing, so one hole needs to be redrilled.

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Good to know on that because I have a '00 plate I want to replace my rusty 99 one with. Looks Easy and quick though. 

1 hour ago, andyb5 said:

is narrower than the 99 carrier bearing, so one hole needs to be redrilled.

 

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