Andy's 1999 V70 R


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Guess it's officially broken in now:

Here's the story behind my new-to-me 1999 V70 R. Its gonna be a long post, and picture heavy too! After wanting a P80 VR for a couple years, and finally being able to graduate from driving my paren

Thanks man, I truly appreciate the kind words! The new project will be a pseudo-continuation of this one. Lots of parts will be exchanged between the 2 wagons and my plan will effectively continue but

12 hours ago, apeacock said:

Good to know on that because I have a '00 plate I want to replace my rusty 99 one with. Looks Easy and quick though. 

 

Yeah it's an easy swap, definitely take care of it before the bracket breaks. That's not a fun experience!

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  • 2 months later...

Kind of a lame update, but it's an update nonetheless.

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Made it out to Swedish Car Day.  We left our shop in Troy at 5AM, and made it to Brookline by 8am.  This was far and away the most crowded it has ever been, it took us 30 minutes to get into Larz Anderson.  I got a pretty good parking spot in between Matt (babyclaude) and Eric (leco510) up towards the entrance.  Steve (skissinger, left) and Dave (ultrablue20, right) also drove out with us, but had to park down the hill with the rest of the C30s.

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Shortly after Swedish Car Day, I added a set of Jewels.  They've seen better days, some of the reflector has flaked off.   I'm only running the Jewels until I rebuild my dual project retrofit, so if anyone wants to call early dibs on a cheap set of OEM Jewels, let me know.  The mesh grille is an older IPD metal one that I got from Adam (adamdrives).  Thanks again Adam, I seriously love it.  I spent entirely too long stripping 3 coats of paint off to get it back to bare metal.  It's currently clear coated, but I'm probably going to end up painting it in some form or fashion.

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EDITED: driveshafts can be swapped between 99 and 00, the only difference is the carrier bearing bolt spacing.

Up next:  Rear coilovers, FMIC, and FWD subframe with roll center correction.

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On October 21, 2016 at 11:09 PM, andyb5 said:

And it turns out that you can't run a 2000 R driveshaft in a 99 R.  There is a slight difference in overall length - the difference is enough that the CV's can't compensate and will wear out after a few thousand miles. So once I get another re-manufactured driveshaft from Colorado Driveshaft, it'll be time to start actually modifying this pig again instead of just fixing broken shit.

Interesting. I ran an '00 driveshaft (with the larger carrier bearing) in mine - unless it was in fact a late 99 shaft that had the larger carrier - I can't say for sure because I didn't remove it from the original car. I have compared VC's though - didn't note a difference in length for the output flange offset that would create the need for a different shaft (Offset change in '01 is very obvious). Did you take any comparsion pics to show your findings? 

Was the shaft that wore out a DS reman? Is it possible they just didn't rebuild it correctly, or did they state there is a difference in the DS shaft length?

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On 10/23/2016 at 8:38 AM, lookforjoe said:

Interesting. I ran an '00 driveshaft (with the larger carrier bearing) in mine - unless it was in fact a late 99 shaft that had the larger carrier - I can't say for sure because I didn't remove it from the original car. I have compared VC's though - didn't note a difference in length for the output flange offset that would create the need for a different shaft (Offset change in '01 is very obvious). Did you take any comparsion pics to show your findings? 

Was the shaft that wore out a DS reman? Is it possible they just didn't rebuild it correctly, or did they state there is a difference in the DS shaft length?

It was a reman from Colorado DS.  I can't put any blame on Colorado DS, as I bought it used with a couple thousand miles on it.  When I installed it, I noticed the CVs had to be pulled into place slightly, as opposed to having to compress the CVs to install the factory 99 driveshaft.  This is all "seat of the pants" so I'll get some actual measurements and report back.

EDIT: 99 and 00 driveshafts are the same length. 

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99 reman from Colorado DS on bottom, factory 99 middle, 00 reman from Colorado DS on top

How many miles did you have on your 00 driveshaft?  I installed mine in early May, and I put approx 8000 miles on the driveshaft before it started to vibrate.

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Unrelated to my driveshaft shenanigans, one of the local photographers got a nice shot of my wagon on the way into Cars and Coffee this past Sunday morning:

14753276_1144566572291752_58254676776512

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On 10/23/2016 at 1:48 PM, andyb5 said:

It was a reman from Colorado DS.  I can't put any blame on Colorado DS, as I bought it used with a couple thousand miles on it.  When I installed it, I noticed the CVs had to be pulled into place slightly, as opposed to having to compress the CVs to install the factory 99 driveshaft.  This is all "seat of the pants" so I'll get some actual measurements and report back.

How many miles did you have on your 00 driveshaft?  I installed mine in early May, and I put approx 8000 miles on the driveshaft before it started to vibrate.

I don't actually know how many miles, I drove it for the last year or so of it's life with an '00 DS (large carrier) before buying a DS reman shortly before it died. I have a few DS's in my garage attic, I'll have to pull them down & take a few measurements. Any chance it was installed backwards? It is possible to install it reversed - I know 'cos I did that at one time... had to check old references to see which end is intended to be in front..

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12 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

I don't actually know how many miles, I drove it for the last year or so of it's life with an '00 DS (large carrier) before buying a DS reman shortly before it died. I have a few DS's in my garage attic, I'll have to pull them down & take a few measurements. Any chance it was installed backwards? It is possible to install it reversed - I know 'cos I did that at one time... had to check old references to see which end is intended to be in front..

I know it wasn't installed backwards, Colorado DS labels which ends belongs where :laugh: 

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On 10/28/2016 at 0:03 PM, lookforjoe said:

I don't actually know how many miles, I drove it for the last year or so of it's life with an '00 DS (large carrier) before buying a DS reman shortly before it died. I have a few DS's in my garage attic, I'll have to pull them down & take a few measurements. Any chance it was installed backwards? It is possible to install it reversed - I know 'cos I did that at one time... had to check old references to see which end is intended to be in front..

Got one for a 2000 XC? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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To reiterate what I've said before, this wagon works remarkably well as a tow vehicle.  I hauled a 99 NA/M56 back from VT last week - having the M66 and Brembos in my wagon make towing far easier than it should be; and even with ~212k on them, the Nivos leveled the car out perfectly.  

Made some progress on the rear CX Racing coilover conversion: I have planned on taking a page from Aaron's playbook and use the QA1 T-Bar kit (item code "BAR500K) to mount the lower end of the coilover to the control arm. The CX coils are intended for a FWD P80, and as such, have a bushing sized for the rear bolt on those cars. The FWD rear mount is ~5/8" and widens out to approximately 1".  Since the QA1 bar is 3/4" diameter, I needed to enlarge the diameter of the CX bushing. 

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Pressed the bushing out of the shock body, and made a fixture to hold it in place on my buddy's drillpress

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Made some chips, drank some beer and now the bushings have the appropriate bore diameter to accommodate the QA1 bar kit.  That solves one of two issues in converting a pair of FWD rear shocks to work with an AWD car.  The remaining component is the rear springs, which I'm going to look at shortly.

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Yesterday, I went to a dyno day that Swedish Chariots organized at Enhanced Street Performance.  The results weren't what I hoped for, but that seems to be par for the course for anyone who puts their car on a dyno  :laugh: :sad: 

Before I share the results, it's time a bit of backstory.  Wednesday night I discovered a huge crack in my downpipe.  I'd been having an intermittent P0134, so I attributed the code to the huge exhaust leak before the front O2 sensor.  Obviously, this isn't good to see:

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Pulled my downpipe out of the car Thursday night, and Friday morning I took it to a local hot rod shop (1945 Speed and Custom) to have the crack welded.  Huge thank you to Jeremy for being able to accomodate me on such short notice!!

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After I reinstalled the downpipe Friday after work, I cleared the P0134 code and got ready to head out in the morning.  We left at 6 am, and the drive out to Massachusetts was uneventful, car seemed normal and ran well.  Got it on the dyno, and when the operator went to make a pull in 4th, AFRs were so rich (9s) that he aborted the pull halfway through. It turns out the front O2 sensor is on its way out, and that was causing the car to run very rich.  The operator did a couple pulls in 3rd to see if the car would respond.  It ran ok, but obviously, the overly rich AFRs hurt overall numbers, but it kept the motor safe.

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The numbers aren't what I hoped for (my goal was ~240 awhp) but such is life.  Peak torque was 226 ft lbs at 3000 rpm, and peak HP was 218 at 6100 rpm.  The good news is that the curves generally confirm what my butt dyno has told me; good low end torque and it pulls hard to redline.  

Since it still has the factory downpipe, exhaust, and intercooler, there's plenty of room for improvement to move those curves up the map.  

A new front O2 sensor gets delivered later this week, so I'll install that ASAP.  I'd like to be able to redyno soon, but I seriously doubt that will be the case.

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