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andyb5

Andy's 1999 V70 R

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Yea me too, I'm worried more about the stock brakes and transmission. Andy would you recommend using a tow dolly on a stock fwd turbo wagon to tow other fwd Volvo's?

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Thanks for the kind words guys!

Towing was fine, I pulled it ~3 hours home on a combo of backroads and highways with plenty of hills for good measure. On that trip, my wagon was loaded up with 3 passengers, a couple hundred pounds of tools/spares, and towing a car. I got 18 MPG (calculated by mileage driven/fuel consumed) and I was pretty happy with that, given I'm AWD, and have sticky 235s adding to the rolling resistance.

The biggest concern I had going into the trip was stopping power. My wagon had 302s with fairly well worn and unknown pads at the time, and while stopping took some effort and definitely a good ways more than normal, I never felt any fade or was in danger of brake failure. I gave myself tons of space to stop, and kept the trans locked in the lowest gear possible to take advantage of any engine braking I could. The trans was fine, no issues whatsoever.

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Unfortunately, M66 couldn't happen before Carlisle due to time constraints.  So as a "consolation prize" I threw some CX Racing coilovers at it to replace my factory (182,xxx miles) struts.  They're a huge improvement, and I really haven't spent much time to dial them in yet.  A more-in depth list of my thoughts and impressions can be found here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/168003-cxracing-coilover-kit-install/?do=findComment&comment=2378238

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Fresh paint on the (formerly gold) STI wheels: 

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R-bumper and Tomcat lip back on

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How it sat at Carlisle

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Front wheels are nearly flush at et34 with 235s

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M66 sits, waiting.  The swap getting delayed allowed time for my PDV upgraded collar gear to be delivered.  That is good news, because I won't have to deal with swapping collar gears in the car, instead I can install it before the trans goes in.  Before the manual swap happens I'm rebuilding a spare cylinder head to deal with leaky front cam seals and worn valve stem seals so I know the car is 100% ready for Stevo to tune.

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  • Upvote 4

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Nice to have a stronger bevel gear collar - I wasn't aware of that product. I would consider it an essential part for a performance build, for sure.

  • Upvote 1

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When I bought the car 3+ years ago, the front intake cam seal was seeping a little bit and it smoked on a cold start because the exhaust valve stem seals were leaking oil into the exhaust ports.  Plus, cylinder 2 had a pretty good exhaust leak between the head and manifold.  I had no desire to deal with fixing any of these on the car, so I rebuilt a spare cylinder head I got from Ian Carr a couple years ago and installed it a few weeks ago.

With the exception of having a machine shop glass-bead and hot-tank the head to clean the oil sludge out, I'm proud to say I did all the work on this job.  It was somewhat intimidating beforehand but now that I've done it, it really wasn't too bad.  I did all the teardown/re-assembly in my living room

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Old head on the way out:

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Cleaning the pistons and mating surfaces

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Installed an R-manifold I picked up from Semir a while back 

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And slapped a Forge CBV (thanks Tommy!) on while the turbo was out

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Took this opportunity to make my life a bit easier and install a Xemodex ETM while the intake manifold was off the car

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New OEM HG with the early style coolant ports.  Neither of my 99 B5234T heads had any cracks around the spark plugs 

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Both the factory head I took off the car and the rebuilt head are hydraulic lifter heads with 7mm valve stems, as is to be expected from an early RN head

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Finished product looking good.  

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Put everything back on, and the car fired right up, no leaks or issues related to the head swap so the M66 is up next! :D

Edit: forgot to add the results from the compression test after I replaced the head:

1 - 173

2 - 165

3 - 167

4 - 170

5 - 171

Less than a 5% difference - not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles it. I am ecstatic with those numbers. 

  • Upvote 8

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Looking good Andy! Hope the forge treats you well!

Edited by Tommy.
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That is awesome. Ha, that is a great idea because I need to do the same thing.

Can't argue when everything comes together and just works, great job!

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Started the M66 swap over the weekend.  

One perk of having a lift - simply pick the car up off the motor, transmission, and subframe :D 

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Removed the angle gear, auto trans, flexplate/torque converter, etc.

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New OEM RMS installed - a 4" PVC drain grate from Home Depot worked perfectly as a drift. 

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I'm using a single mass flywheel, Sachs SD-693 clutch and an 850 R pressure plate.  

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And started getting the M66 ready to go back in.  

Shaved the webbing to allow easier removal of the drives axle

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Got the original collar gear removed.  It was not easy.  4+ hours of work and countless failed attempts with all manner of tools.  I ended up cutting a hole through the gear with a cutoff wheel, then used an air hammer to drive it out while heating the collar with a torch and pulling with a pair of vice grips.  A huge thank you to Semir (d s50r) for helping me with this.

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Cleaned the splines on the transmission output gear.

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A few months back I bought a PDV high strength collar gear.  It comes with all the necessary seals and grease needed to install it.  I started the gear with a rubber mallet, then used a press to drive it the rest of the way.

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Went to install the trans bracket Hussein made, but found a slight modification will be needed - P2 M66s this boss is not tapped, but on a P1 M66, it comes tapped to M12x1.75 and I have to enlarge the bolt hole on the bracket.  I didn't have the correct drill bit with me last night, so that's the first thing I'll take care of tonight.

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I don't have pictures, but the brake/clutch pedal, shift cables, and clutch master cylinder are installed too.  Dash has been trimmed for the shifter, I just need to grab some different bolts to secure that in place.

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Coming along nicely Andy. 

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This is awesome!  Grats on the 6 speed swap.  I started a turbo swap last weekend, and have decided it's just time to do the manual as well.  What are you doing for tuning?

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was there a 'felt side' on that RMS you used?  if so it is supposed to be on the outside   

I second this!

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Jay & Lucas, thanks  for the kind words.  I'm having Stevo tune the car - he's tuned his old S60 R, his S70 T5, Tom Long's 00 R, Bmac's S60 T5, Timo's S60 R, etc.  

was there a 'felt side' on that RMS you used?  if so it is supposed to be on the outside   

 

I second this!

Shit.  There was a felt outside to the one I removed, but I honestly don't remember if there was felt on the seal I installed.  I'd rather not re-do this in the future, so I guess I'm gonna go buy another seal at the dealership ($40) after work today

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