Sign in to follow this  

Andy's 1999 V70 R

Recommended Posts

Yea me too, I'm worried more about the stock brakes and transmission. Andy would you recommend using a tow dolly on a stock fwd turbo wagon to tow other fwd Volvo's?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Towing was fine, I pulled it ~3 hours home on a combo of backroads and highways with plenty of hills for good measure. On that trip, my wagon was loaded up with 3 passengers, a couple hundred pounds of tools/spares, and towing a car. I got 18 MPG (calculated by mileage driven/fuel consumed) and I was pretty happy with that, given I'm AWD, and have sticky 235s adding to the rolling resistance.

The biggest concern I had going into the trip was stopping power. My wagon had 302s with fairly well worn and unknown pads at the time, and while stopping took some effort and definitely a good ways more than normal, I never felt any fade or was in danger of brake failure. I gave myself tons of space to stop, and kept the trans locked in the lowest gear possible to take advantage of any engine braking I could. The trans was fine, no issues whatsoever.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, M66 couldn't happen before Carlisle due to time constraints.  So as a "consolation prize" I threw some CX Racing coilovers at it to replace my factory (182,xxx miles) struts.  They're a huge improvement, and I really haven't spent much time to dial them in yet.  A more-in depth list of my thoughts and impressions can be found here:


Fresh paint on the (formerly gold) STI wheels: 


R-bumper and Tomcat lip back on


How it sat at Carlisle


Front wheels are nearly flush at et34 with 235s


M66 sits, waiting.  The swap getting delayed allowed time for my PDV upgraded collar gear to be delivered.  That is good news, because I won't have to deal with swapping collar gears in the car, instead I can install it before the trans goes in.  Before the manual swap happens I'm rebuilding a spare cylinder head to deal with leaky front cam seals and worn valve stem seals so I know the car is 100% ready for Stevo to tune.


  • Upvote 4

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice to have a stronger bevel gear collar - I wasn't aware of that product. I would consider it an essential part for a performance build, for sure.

  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I bought the car 3+ years ago, the front intake cam seal was seeping a little bit and it smoked on a cold start because the exhaust valve stem seals were leaking oil into the exhaust ports.  Plus, cylinder 2 had a pretty good exhaust leak between the head and manifold.  I had no desire to deal with fixing any of these on the car, so I rebuilt a spare cylinder head I got from Ian Carr a couple years ago and installed it a few weeks ago.

With the exception of having a machine shop glass-bead and hot-tank the head to clean the oil sludge out, I'm proud to say I did all the work on this job.  It was somewhat intimidating beforehand but now that I've done it, it really wasn't too bad.  I did all the teardown/re-assembly in my living room




Old head on the way out:



Cleaning the pistons and mating surfaces



Installed an R-manifold I picked up from Semir a while back 


And slapped a Forge CBV (thanks Tommy!) on while the turbo was out


Took this opportunity to make my life a bit easier and install a Xemodex ETM while the intake manifold was off the car


New OEM HG with the early style coolant ports.  Neither of my 99 B5234T heads had any cracks around the spark plugs 


Both the factory head I took off the car and the rebuilt head are hydraulic lifter heads with 7mm valve stems, as is to be expected from an early RN head


Finished product looking good.  


Put everything back on, and the car fired right up, no leaks or issues related to the head swap so the M66 is up next! :D

Edit: forgot to add the results from the compression test after I replaced the head:

1 - 173

2 - 165

3 - 167

4 - 170

5 - 171

Less than a 5% difference - not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles it. I am ecstatic with those numbers. 

  • Upvote 8

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking good Andy! Hope the forge treats you well!

Edited by Tommy.
  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is awesome. Ha, that is a great idea because I need to do the same thing.

Can't argue when everything comes together and just works, great job!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Started the M66 swap over the weekend.  

One perk of having a lift - simply pick the car up off the motor, transmission, and subframe :D 


Removed the angle gear, auto trans, flexplate/torque converter, etc.


New OEM RMS installed - a 4" PVC drain grate from Home Depot worked perfectly as a drift. 


I'm using a single mass flywheel, Sachs SD-693 clutch and an 850 R pressure plate.  


And started getting the M66 ready to go back in.  

Shaved the webbing to allow easier removal of the drives axle


Got the original collar gear removed.  It was not easy.  4+ hours of work and countless failed attempts with all manner of tools.  I ended up cutting a hole through the gear with a cutoff wheel, then used an air hammer to drive it out while heating the collar with a torch and pulling with a pair of vice grips.  A huge thank you to Semir (d s50r) for helping me with this.


Cleaned the splines on the transmission output gear.


A few months back I bought a PDV high strength collar gear.  It comes with all the necessary seals and grease needed to install it.  I started the gear with a rubber mallet, then used a press to drive it the rest of the way.



Went to install the trans bracket Hussein made, but found a slight modification will be needed - P2 M66s this boss is not tapped, but on a P1 M66, it comes tapped to M12x1.75 and I have to enlarge the bolt hole on the bracket.  I didn't have the correct drill bit with me last night, so that's the first thing I'll take care of tonight.


I don't have pictures, but the brake/clutch pedal, shift cables, and clutch master cylinder are installed too.  Dash has been trimmed for the shifter, I just need to grab some different bolts to secure that in place.

  • Upvote 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Coming along nicely Andy. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is awesome!  Grats on the 6 speed swap.  I started a turbo swap last weekend, and have decided it's just time to do the manual as well.  What are you doing for tuning?

  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

was there a 'felt side' on that RMS you used?  if so it is supposed to be on the outside   

I second this!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay & Lucas, thanks  for the kind words.  I'm having Stevo tune the car - he's tuned his old S60 R, his S70 T5, Tom Long's 00 R, Bmac's S60 T5, Timo's S60 R, etc.  

was there a 'felt side' on that RMS you used?  if so it is supposed to be on the outside   


I second this!

Shit.  There was a felt outside to the one I removed, but I honestly don't remember if there was felt on the seal I installed.  I'd rather not re-do this in the future, so I guess I'm gonna go buy another seal at the dealership ($40) after work today

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By ksb
      Our much beloved V70R (~110K miles) overheated on a family trip from Oakland to LA this week.  It now sits at a dealer/service station waiting either for us to pour more money into it than we can afford right now, or for you to come and pick it up.  Asking $1500, OBO.  Then you can either fix the thermostat (and possibly head gasket) yourself, or part it out.
      We are the original owners, with complete service records.  Right before this trip, it had a regular service and new front brakes done (but, ugh, not the thermostat).
      Needs to happen by Weds July 8, in Los Angeles. Paypal, Venmo works.
      (1st side facing pic is from this week, dash board & down facing pic from last year.)

    • By YV1LW
      A7737.pdfA7610.pdfA7608.pdfWanted 1998 V70R driver door interior panel. Interior code 3866.A0636.pdf
    • By Shane E
      99’ V70R wagon for sale best offer. Black with tan interior. 159K. Timing belt @ 111k, head rebuilt @ 128k. New heater core and radiator. Rebuilt rear driveline @ 130k but now removed because it started to vibrate. ABS light is on and abs is non-functional. Nice interior and no dents on exterior. Located in 83422. Text me for pics.. Shane, two 08 31three 9zero46
    • By KMF
      Hi im new to this forum and this is my first post.
      i have a V70r 1999 
      there seems to be difficult to find a gearbox replacement 1208943. Reason for replacement is the gears are slipping when the atf is hot. I want to rebuild it but instead of taking down the one on the car I’m looking for one used I can rebuild and swap with the one on the car.
      my questions is: can i use other gearboxes F.ex 1208942 from xc70? 
      Does anybody here know What might be wrong with the one i have? No DTCs!
      Does anybody have A 1208943 they might wanna sell? Or maybe 8111193..
      other things I can do except flush as I just did that? 12l jws3309+treatments+leakstop
      where is the Volvo race mechanics ? 😅

    • By 05V70RGT
      A slightly neglected but making a comeback, 70R that is just itching to find a motivated owner. Nearly every month, we all read, or hear about, another R selling for CRAZY money. This particular R is NOT crazy money. It's reasonable money. $4000.00 and who knows, it may be even cheaper. What I would REALLY be interested in, is a TRADE. STRAIGHT ACROSS. CAR FOR CAR. 
      MINE; 2005 VOLVO V70R ONE OF 674
      190,000. Mostly fwy commute miles silver paint with the typical Gobi colored leather. Yes, it would be nice if it were flash green with Atacama but it's not. Clean title, never been involved in any significant accidents. NO panel has been repainted. Has a few of the typical umps and bruises but nothing big. Interior is Gobi leather and is a little tired. CaR starts easily, idles nicely, revs like a pissed off banshee,  has a working 4C system, all three settings, NO CHECK ENGINE LITE, NO codes other than ignition ring and rear wiper motor. 
      Automatic trans with a new, Quality replacement, valve body including all eight shift solenoids. New, not ebay Chinese "reman" solenoids as well as all new proper transmission fluid. I have set adaptation thru VIDA only to find out that the VIN LOCKED TCU is probably "bricked" and needs a XEMODEX replacement.  APPROXIMATELY  $499.95  I just don't want to deal with it as I have other cars and projects in various stages of completion and have no room. 
      If I were to keep it, I would absolutely do an M66 Install as this conversion alone seems to make people go mad and throw huge amounts of cash at owners. 
      If I had the room I'd strip it bare and make it a 6 speed track only car with full cage etc.
      Yours; 95-97 855R  prefer red but any R color would work. Needs to be in reasonably decent condition. NO SALVAGED TITLE. Must run. NO more than 2 years out for tags. I understand how old they are and how crappie the interior plastic is now so I won't freak about a cracked or broken interior. PLEASE,  NO TOTAL POS CARS BUT SOME ISSUES ARE EXPECTED 
      Interested? Let me know what you're thinking and maybe we can make something happen