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andyb5

Andy's 1999 V70 R

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the RMS only has felt on one side, the other will have the spring piece that can fall out easily. Maybe the seal was revised

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Jay & Lucas, thanks  for the kind words.  I'm having Stevo tune the car - he's tuned his old S60 R, his S70 T5, Tom Long's 00 R, Bmac's S60 T5, Timo's S60 R, etc.  

 

Shit.  There was a felt outside to the one I removed, but I honestly don't remember if there was felt on the seal I installed.  I'd rather not re-do this in the future, so I guess I'm gonna go buy another seal at the dealership ($40) after work today :angry:

Sorry Andy! I wanted to jump in there with Perry and state something noticeable with that seal. When I did mine (m56) both times the felt on the OEM seal faced out with the spring side facing in. Just an observation. I'm not sure if the m66 seal is any different than the m56, wouldn't suprise me if it was, but better check now than put it together and run into the leak city I was in.  I also threw a bit of black RTV on the outside rim of the seal to make sure it would not leak in the future for whatever reason it did the first time. Knock on wood still leak free. Good luck!

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Shit.  There was a felt outside to the one I removed, but I honestly don't remember if there was felt on the seal I installed.  I'd rather not re-do this in the future, so I guess I'm gonna go buy another seal at the dealership ($40) after work today :angry:

 

the RMS only has felt on one side, the other will have the spring piece that can fall out easily. Maybe the seal was revised

 

Sorry Andy! I wanted to jump in there with Perry and state something noticeable with that seal. When I did mine (m56) both times the felt on the OEM seal faced out with the spring side facing in. Just an observation. I'm not sure if the m66 seal is any different than the m56, wouldn't suprise me if it was, but better check now than put it together and run into the leak city I was in.  I also threw a bit of black RTV on the outside rim of the seal to make sure it would not leak in the future for whatever reason it did the first time. Knock on wood still leak free. Good luck!

So yesterday I picked up a new RMS, part #31339213 from the local dealership.  This seal doesn't have any felt on either side, and neither did the seal I installed on my motor.  The seal pictured earlier was correctly installed.

2D88118E-1A69-4CC4-AF37-B1C5B8995ADF_zps

Outside of seal, no spring visible.

221130E6-C466-44A1-89DA-034987275B32_zps

Inside of seal with spring visible.

52F88563-4F97-4506-974B-DC13AEA48260_zps

Sorry about the quality of those pictures - it's tough to get an iPhone to focus on a seal inside a plastic bag but I'm not breaking out a real camera for something that insignificant.

After figuring out that mess, I got the slave cylinder installed and the clutch hydraulic line figured out.  I'm using an internal slave M56 hard line with the M66 bleeder and slave.  The M56 line requires some bends to be modified.  I'll post pictures of that later.

5FB28590-7C5B-4ACE-9B73-578043C66A3A_zps

Drivers side trans mount bored out for the M12x1.75 bolt.  Got the M66 installed on the motor and put the angle gear back on.  

913A03A5-6AD3-4BA9-9911-5C73F553EADD_zps

Spent some time cleaning/degreasing the engine bay, it was nasty

9B607C41-2786-46AF-9DFF-7C8C7CB80E7D_zps

No pictures but I broke down the ECU box, removed the main wiring harness and first thing I'm doing after work tonight will be deleting the TCU and modifying the wiring harness.

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glad you didnt have to re-do it, better safe than sorry ...  perhaps they just don't put the felt on anymore, odd..  

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Drivers side trans mount bored out for the M12x1.75 bolt.  Got the M66 installed on the motor and put the angle gear back on.  

913A03A5-6AD3-4BA9-9911-5C73F553EADD_zps

 

Coming along. Is the bracket still loose at the large bolt in this pic? It should be sitting flat on the mount washer.

If there's a problem with it, I can provide an exchange. Just let me know.

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The mount wasn't fully tightened down when I took the picture - I was still adjusting the mount to align the motor/trans correctly.  It sits properly now, nice and flat on the washer.

 

 

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The mount wasn't fully tightened down when I took the picture - I was still adjusting the mount to align the motor/trans correctly.  It sits properly now, nice and flat on the washer.

Good to hear.

I'll have to make note of what version M66 is being used when brackets are ordered, so I can drill it out accordingly. Sorry for the inconvenience there.

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On July 22, 2015 at 9:53 AM, lookforjoe said:

Good to hear.

I'll have to make note of what version M66 is being used when brackets are ordered, so I can drill it out accordingly. Sorry for the inconvenience there.

Nah, don't worry about it.  I spent more time typing this post than I did drilling the hole out :laugh:

On July 22, 2015 at 10:04 AM, Commander Riker said:

Interested to see the M56 clutch line bends.  I'll be making the same venture soon.

I'll be sure to take plenty of pictures :smile:

I got the wiring harness all sorted out last night, and re-installed back on the motor.  All wiring mods are the same as what was documented here in Mark's swap thread.

Jumpered the wires at the TCM and delete all the unneeded automatic transmission wiring.

C35E9D20-90D7-46D6-8028-6F68F3DA6E72_zps

Add the clutch pedal switch wire to ECM B15 pin (blue wire at the end of the screwdriver) ran the wire into the dash through the passenger side accessory grommet.  I used a run of wire from the TCM harness so it had the factory pin on it.

55595478-A9C5-4632-A6E1-73B1A4B812A4_zps

EDIT: These are the connections for the clutch pedal sensor wires.  The grey/white wire gets connected to ECM B15.  ECM B15 is not present in the automatic harness, and needs to be added to the ECM harness as pictured above.  The brown/purple wire gets connected to ECM B4.  ECM B4 runs to the ambient temperature sensor (and matching brown/purple wire) on the passengers side of front of the car.   

CAED4D36-FFB5-41C6-AB14-92253FF0A9CB_zps

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Installed a rebuilt ABS module from Midwest ABS.  Installed the clutch master cylinder and ran a line from the brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder.

3AE8DFCB-5B77-4622-B29F-5FEFEA6A01AA_zps

Trim the master cylinder and you don't have to touch the brake booster, it slides right past and bolts up easily.

6F012659-57A7-4862-A999-124EAF80DF9E_zps

Engine/trans/suspension ready to be re-installed

C863D010-2A91-4588-B92F-3FDE9349735B_zps

And back in the car

6F41AE4F-FB48-4922-BBB1-B5F565EE3458_zps

Shift cables hooked up and clutch hydraulic line run.  I used the line from a 99/00 M56 with internal slave.  This line has the clip-in fittings needed to work with the 99/00 clutch master and M66 bleeder elbow.   The stock bends in the line are largely where they need to be - I tweaked the line a bit to allow it to pass over the stock airbox bracket rather than the way the factory routed the line through the airbox mount.  This required some minor trimming of the airbox bracket, but nothing 30 seconds with a Dremel couldn't handle.

C33F6A99-2FD5-4706-A6F5-1D55C73EFFEA_zps

ECM harness re-installed, and the TCM harness has been fully deleted.

059B6B97-F809-4D3C-BBFD-992F3E96830C_zps

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Man you work quick. It took me forever to get my shit together. :lol: Maybe it's the lift..

Nice work, you'll be up and running in no time!

 

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I fucking hate my auto in my R.. 

 

But it looking at this... I realize I need no more projects.

auto it is.

 

 

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Hot damn you're making quick work of this.  I was suppose to start pulling my motor tonight, but... meh... le lazy.  Will start tomorrow.

Great pictures.  I wish I had a liiiiiift.

Edited by Commander Riker

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Man you work quick. It took me forever to get my shit together. :lol: Maybe it's the lift..

Nice work, you'll be up and running in no time!

 

it's most def the lift lol. They make everything easier

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On July 24, 2015 at 8:54 PM, BlackT5 said:

Man you work quick. It took me forever to get my stuff together. :lol: Maybe it's the lift..

Nice work, you'll be up and running in no time!

Thanks Mark!  I have the easy route here, I'm just following down the list of items you had to figure out as you worked.

Getting work done quickly has it's price though - I've been at the shop every night this week until around 2am (4am last night...) and it's taking a pretty good toll on me.  I'm physically and mentally exhausted, I can't wait to wrap things up tonight.

On July 24, 2015 at 10:39 PM, Dick Dastardly said:

I poking hate my auto in my R.. 

 

But it looking at this... I realize I need no more projects.

auto it is.

Yeah it's a lot more work than I expected.  But hey, I really want a manual in my life and I'm too stupid to sell this thing, so M66 it is

On July 24, 2015 at 11:48 PM, Commander Riker said:

Hot damn you're making quick work of this.  I was suppose to start pulling my motor tonight, but... meh... le lazy.  Will start tomorrow.

Great pictures.  I wish I had a liiiiiift.

Get to it! I'm sure the hot weather down there isn't helping with motivation - it was 90+ and humid this weekend, working on the swap was miserable. 

On July 24, 2015 at 1:14 AM, Modman said:

it's most def the lift lol. They make everything easier

Yeah the lift definitely makes things much easier.  However, not being able to open the door more than ~30* makes getting under the dash to do the pedals and re-connect the steering column really suck.

I had every intention of finishing the swap and driving it home last night, but the best laid plans of mice and men....

Installed the heater core lines, and modified the lower radiator hose to clear the shift arms.  Then I got the clutch bled.  What a total pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD that was - I initially tried reverse bleeding with an oil can, but that didn't work for some reason so I broke out my buddy's Motive power bleeder.  All that did was blast a ton of air through the lines - I let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low :monkey::monkey::monkey:  So I stopped using the power bleeder and just did it the traditional way.  

Shifter is all bolted up, ended up having to trim a little more off the dash to clear it. I left the S40 rubber bushings on the bottom of the shifter, then put the new shifter bolts thru the rubber bushing with a fender washer on top of the shifter base. Only 3/4 of the shifter bolts align, the 4th (front lefthand) isn't close to fitting. I'll address this at some point in the future, but for now, it's solidly secured in place

No pictures, but I had to remove the plastic harness around the wiring on the underside of the center console to clear the cable/arm on the right side of the shifter.

F817A4E0-10BC-4FC0-96E2-5D0174613B45_zps

A few months ago I bought a do88 radiator as a part of the group buy.  I ordered it without an auto trans cooler - so I went to install that last night and fill the coolant up so I could start it.  This is where things went sideways.  Anyone see the problem yet?

B548A778-6692-4BF5-86CF-CE491EC57FB9_zps 

How about now?

E61E10C2-E4C2-4CD1-81E6-5A5A96AD5309_zps

After having the radiator sitting in my living room and looking at it every time I came into my apartment for a couple months, only when I got it installed did I realize there wasn't a barb for the expansion tank on the radiator.  I think "no problem, I'll grab a -98 style thermostat cover left over from a parts car and hook that up to the expansion tank" but after searching all over the shop, storage shed, and my buddy's apartment, there weren't any to be found :glare:  So I had a bright idea (or, it seemed like one at 3:15 am...) - combine a 3/8" air tool fitting and a leftover 99+ thermostat cover to make a -98 style thermostat cover:

3170B99E-E189-4CEC-8D5C-D1A66E50819A_zps

Yeah, no.  I woke up this morning and realized that was terrible idea :laugh:  So I'm gonna pull the do88 rad back out. Kills me that the junky Nissens is going back in, but I want this done right in the end.

Tonight I'll swap radiators, add coolant, put the exhaust back on, and start it up and put some miles on it

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