20 replies to this topic

[BlackBrick]

I've got a 97 850 GLT with 125,000 miles. I had the timing belt only changed at 75,000 miles. But that was 9 years ago. Yes, we don't put many miles on this car.

I am going to do a full timing belt, tensioners, pulleys, water pump replacement at 150,000 miles. But I am wondering, is it safe to be running on the same timing belt and pulleys for over 9 years? It could be another 5 years until I het 150,000 miles, making the interval 14 years.

Not sure if it's mileage only, or should time be factored in (like changing oil)

Thanks!

[64pvolvo1800]

Time is as critical. the bearings are just as apt to fail from sitting as the belt from dry rot. Just as a side note, check the age of your tires too. I;ve replaced Michelins due to dry rot and cracking more often them wear out on my truck. it sits a lot too!

[erikv11]

At this site you will mostly read that the standard interval on timing belts is 70k or 5 years. I just swapped one out that was 95k and 15 years I would never go that long by choice, but 5-7 years is probably OK. On your car it's overdue.

On the pulleys and hydraulic tensioner, IMHO they are not as vulnerable to time. But they are also getting up there in mileage, I would change the rollers for sure.

On the water pump, these can go forever I would actually just leave it in there.

[BlackBrick]

The car is used every day, so the bearings get lubricated and the belt gets run, so I'm not worried about sitting issues. I had Michelin tires on that car for 7 years/45,000 miles, and the only issue i had was that they were getting hard. I just replaced them due to the tread finally getting low.

But like you said, I do worry about bearing failure, as it still has the original pullies on that car from 1997, even though the pullies are supposed to be changed out at 150,000 miles, but that does seem a long time for a bearing to last.

Looks like thru FCP Euro I can get the belt, both pullies, tensioner, and water pump for $320 total with 10% off, but I notice our Volvospeed10 code is no longer working!?

Will be taking the car out of state this summer, so I think it wise to go ahead and do this before then for insurance. I can do most repairs on my car, but I am very nervous about dealing with this, so will probably give the parts to my indy mechanic.

Regarding water pump, for $100 isn't it worth just doing it? IPDUSA claims on their website it's a common failure, but I agree, I never hear about one going out. But I'll probably do it for peace of mind.

[BlackBrick]

and the water pump...i'm more concerned about the 15 year old gasket than the pump itself.

[Keaton85]

Don't worry about the gasket, then thing has welded itself on there and will never leak!

So what years and miles per item are you running right now? I'm confused did you have everything replaced on the first change or what?

This is MY general idea of how long items last in the timing belt set-up.
Idler: 120K-140K (never seen on fail but this is when they get a little loose)
Tensioner + hydraulic unit: Hydraulic set-up i would say are a 100K mile unit without issue (yes the interval is 70K but that's way to short in my opinion)
Mechanical tensioner: 110Kish
Belt: Never seen one fail, or heard of one every failing. I have an N/A in our family that has a belt that's 1/3 gone since it moved into the block. Still going strong haha...
Water pump: originals last 200K easy!!!

The parts you are sourcing are pretty expensive in my opinion. You can get the pump for cheaper (GMB) and the belt you can get for about $16, it's a Gates belt. and the other rollers for less then FCP has them. FCP is not the best price point on timing items in my opinion.

[D s50r]

I've replaced water pumps due to failures, if I were to estimate I do 4 or 5 a year due to leaking... ( this is on customer cars not my own haha) and make sure it's an Oem pump tho I've seen aftermarket pumps fail

[BlackBrick]

At 75,000 miles I only had the timing belt replaced. The pullies and tensioner are all original. 125,000 miles, 15 years.

I priced the parts at Tasca, and they are only about 10% cheaper than FCP. I only want to buy OEM for everything.

While the whole thing is apart, why not replace the water pump just in case, is my opinion. I assume the labor is minimal at that point. I would hate to be that 1/1000 person who has it fail on me while I'm driving across Idaho, all because I wanted to save $100.

[Keaton85]

Yeah, get that replaced ASAP!!! why did you just do the belt? the belt is the last part to fail, it's the tensioner that goes first.

Buy whatever makes you all warm and fuzzy inside, it's your money and vehicle. I do way to many timing belts to spend the kind of money that blue box volvo wants when you get get the same part just from difference sources.

Also, if you have any mechanical skills, you can replace the belt yourself. It's really easy..

[BlackBrick]

an volvo indy mechanic i used to go to in CA told me that the belt was all that needed replacing at 75,000 miles.

any warning signs about the tensioner I should be aware of?

I've had issues going with aftermarket parts, they usually bite me in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD within a year. I've given up trying to find out which parts are OK aftermarket, and which are not, and just stick to OEM and search out good prices (like Tasca and FCP with discounts)

[Keaton85]

Rollers: INA
Belt: continental or gates
Hydraulic: Aisin
water pump: Aisin, GMB, Hepu

Your indy was incorrect.

[BlackBrick]

thanks to you both for all your input, it is greatly appreciated. Will be getting this done in a few weeks I hope. I'll tell my wife not to rev it too high until then ;-)

[erikv11]

Rollers: INA
Belt: continental or gates
Hydraulic: Aisin
water pump: Aisin, GMB, Hepu

Your indy was incorrect.

Great advice

[BlackBrick]

OK, thinking about the HEPU water pump as it's half the price of genuine volvo. Does the HEPU have the same great reputation to go 200,000 miles?!?!

[cvisockis]

I just called volvo about doing my 97 850
They told me it is not required to change the water pump when doing the timing belt
The service advisor at volvo told me he has never seen one go bad in the 20 + years he has worked on volvos

[Keaton85]

Neither have I BUT some have and it's a cheap part.

I get GMB pumps for $30 bucks, and just change it out every 100Kish miles with the rest of the system. Costs me $110 bucks for everything on the mechanical systems. Easy peasy....

[BlackBrick]

While in there, should I have both front cam seals replaced? No oil leaks.

I'm now leaning towards just the four main components (belt, 2 pulleys, tensioner) since I'm only at 125,000 miles.

[Keaton85]

I wouldn't bother with the tensioner, those are just as long lasting as the water pump is not better. I would do the pump WAY before the hydraulic unit.

[BlackBrick]

wait a minute, this is your quote from before: "the belt is the last part to fail, it's the tensioner that goes first."

[Keaton85]

Sorry, meant tensioner pulley. The hydraulic unit is the longest lasting part in the system.