62 replies to this topic

[95-850 wagon]

I am going to show you the materials and how to install the Big 3 upgrade for your car audio system.This is done to reinforce your charging system, allow more current flow from your alternator to your battery(faster charging), and give more voltage to your amps.

first you will need

3 1/2 feet of 1/0 gauge red colored audio power wire

2 feet of 1/0 gauge black audio power wire

1 foot of 1/0 gauge black audio power wire

6 1/0 audio ring terminals



Ok, now that you have your materials we can get started. First take all 3 cables and attach the ring terminals (if you think you got them tight enough, crimp them more..the last thing you want is a cable to come loose!!!)


First we are going to the alternator. unscrew the nut that holds the positive cable to the alternator...(be sure not to lose the nut or the plastic cover for the nut.) Leave the stock cable attached to the alternator and just put your 3 1/2 foot red cable over it and bolt it down, replacing the plastic cover over the nut. Next we are running this cable to the battery.Run this cable next to the radiator hose and across the relay area above the radiator fan over to the battery and attach it to positive. Now your power cable is done.








Now we are going to do the battery ground. Take the 2 foot cable and run this from the negative terminal run it along the between the fender and the air filter and attach it under the coil ground (this will be a little difficult but it looks great)





The last thing we are going to do is replace the engine to chassis ground strap. This is located on the rear right side of the engine near the upper mount. Nothing fancy here, just remove and replace with the 1 foot 1/0 black cable



and that is the big three upgrade peeps.





I jumped up from 13.2v at my capacitor to 14.4v.





Memphis Mojo 12"...



My Memphis Mclass components...

[MattyXXL]

My Memphis Mclass components...

Ghostshadow where are you?

[survolvo]

Ghostshadow where are you?

Don't get him started. This could be a long one.

Edited by survolvo, 01 May 2012 - 04:42 PM.

[T-5Bandit]

If the cables are being upgraded, why leave the stock cable connected to alternator and battery?

[95-850 wagon]

Why remove it?...you are allowing more current by leaving it, not to mention you would have to remove the intake manifold, do some rewiring, and a laundry list of other things to remove the stock wire... its better to just leave it.

[MattyXXL]

you would have to remove the intake manifold, do some rewiring

you are allowing more current

Why would you use Amp wire to run current from your alt?

[95-850 wagon]

Why would you use Amp wire to run current from your alt?

Why is the sky blue?, What makes the sun rise? Why do middle eastern people wear those hat thingys? ,......Because you can...It has no more resistance than welding cable, and its rated at 600v...(im sure it can handle the 14.4v)

[850T5M]

^^ Cuz wire is wire? lol

As long as it has multi threads in it, and is thick enough (with good insulation), you can use it for anything.

Edit: Ah you beat me too it! lol

[optimus prime]

What exactly is flame worthy here? The components? The use of more expensive wire? Looks clean and correct from here. Relax guys someone brand new is trying to contribute right off the bat. Dont discourage the behavior of people posting write ups with many clear well lit pictures.

[95-850 wagon]

What exactly is flame worthy here? The components? The use of more expensive wire? Looks clean and correct from here. Relax guys someone brand new is trying to contribute right off the bat. Dont discourage the behavior of people posting write ups with many clear well lit pictures.

Thanks dude.

[TaskMule]

What exactly is flame worthy here? The components? The use of more expensive wire? Looks clean and correct from here. Relax guys, someone brand new is trying to contribute right off the bat. Dont discourage the behavior of people posting write ups with many clear well lit pictures.

This.

It looks good to me. And the voltage results show it helps. I don't see a downside.

[MattyXXL]

What exactly is flame worthy here? The components? The use of more expensive wire? Looks clean and correct from here. Relax guys someone brand new is trying to contribute right off the bat. Dont discourage the behavior of people posting write ups with many clear well lit pictures.

No one is trying to discourage, or flame... I was questioning reasoning behind some of the decisions made.... Like mounting the crossover in the door pocket ( That looked horrible to me), Like using Amp wire for alt cable (not all wire can handle what other wires can).. I was Genuinely curious.. Maybe I should have said "Great write up, but If you dont mind I have some questions if thats ok".
Ive never see anything like it with the extra wiring from the alt, and dont know if it is safe..

You know how it goes, to each his own but, If your going to post that this is the way to do it, I would like to know why it was done that way?
Who's to say I wouldnt do it that way if it was right... Thats why we are all here, to get Ideas and to leard how to do things that we dont know how to do, correct? (well most of us )

In turn if it actually works then im sure ill do it one day...

There was no flaming.... what cause I poked a joke at a statement that was said... Get a sense of humor... seriously..
Whats wrong with being a happy joking person...

Thast was the reason I was asking ghost shadow to chime in, dude has been doing car audio for something like 20 years, and I trust his opinion.

I apologize if anyone took it as I was saying that "this is fucking stupid"... No need to get butt hurt.... ( That was a joke too so laugh!)

[Ghost Shadow]

For a person that does not do this all the time, its ok. I would have done it a little differently but its ok.

For me i would get rid of that Volvo oil bottle and actually use a bracket to hold the battery down instead of pressure fitting it. Hit a nice bump and the terminals was short on something = fire.

Your voltage went up because you finally have a solid ground going to the battery. That adapter terninal looses at least .5 volt. I know you used clamp on ring terminals, i would actually sweat some solder onto the ends to make it a solid connection.

I know it says 1/0 guage .... here is a 4GA comparison. i'd also use CCA since it is more flexible.


Look at my post and my pictures when i did the v70t5m power and ground cable upgrades on a 14 year old car with 155k miles.
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/149907-project-1998-olive-green-t5-manual-v70/page__st__100#entry2043314

I am only responding because i was asked to, You did do a good job for DIY, and it is acceptable. There are just things you need to be cautious about, open connections that can short and wire routing.

[MattyXXL]

Thank You.... Thats what I wanted to hear..
Now that I know its safe, I plan to do something like this when I re do my audio when the interior is out..

to the OP.... Thank You for showing this to us, As stated above I never have seen wiring like this before...

[Ghost Shadow]

OP has good intentions and it is a good guide. when it comes to 12v power, you still need to be cautious on how things are routed. i have seen some crazy stuff in the years i have been doing this. Some kid used tin foil instead of fuses in a toyota camry, smoked the whole wire harness behind the dash. another dude put a 30amp fuse where there was originally a 10amp, needless to say it smoked the harness in a ford explorer from the super juntion box on the drivers firewall all thee way up the a piller, down the headliner, and also down into the drivers kick panel to the rear of the car. had another dude "street installer from the neighborhood" do a radio and it MELTED the whole center console in a pontiac venture.

[95-850 wagon]

OP has good intentions and it is a good guide. when it comes to 12v power, you still need to be cautious on how things are routed. i have seen some crazy stuff in the years i have been doing this. Some kid used tin foil instead of fuses in a toyota camry, smoked the whole wire harness behind the dash. another dude put a 30amp fuse where there was originally a 10amp, needless to say it smoked the harness in a ford explorer from the super juntion box on the drivers firewall all thee way up the a piller, down the headliner, and also down into the drivers kick panel to the rear of the car. had another dude "street installer from the neighborhood" do a radio and it MELTED the whole center console in a pontiac venture.

I did route mine thoughtfully keeping all rubbing points and moving components in mind. ell the cables are secured as well.

[Ghost Shadow]

I did route mine thoughtfully keeping all rubbing points and moving components in mind. ell the cables are secured as well.

if using a plastic volvo fluid bottle to wedge the battery in place did require alot of thought. then

Seriously, this is what i would do.

• take out that plastic bottle
• remove the battery
• remove the battery tray
• undo the 10mm bolt that holds down the ground cable under the battery tray
• make a new ground cable with a ring terminal that is longer than the one that goes to the battery right now
• get a battery terminal that allows for you to use a bolt to clamp down the new ground wire (like the ones i used in my link above)
• get rid of that terminal extender
• go buy a battery tie down kit or you can use a rubber bungi cord and make a tie down.
• move those amps to under the false floor. the second panel next to the rear seats
• toss the caps and get a small sp680 stinger battery and also mount it under the false floor.

No need to see the amps and stuff. Just a few suggestions. here is my first volvo from 04 with 4 jl 10's and a whole buncha stuff

[andyb5]

I know it says 1/0 guage .... here is a 4GA comparison. i'd also use CCA since it is more flexible..

I used KnuKonceptz 1/0 gauge OFC power cable, and it is extremely flexible. No, this isn't my picture, but yes, I did tie a knot like that with my wire just for shits and giggles. I don't know how you can get more flexible in a true 1/0 gauge cable.

[95-850 wagon]

if using a plastic volvo fluid bottle to wedge the battery in place did require alot of thought. then

Seriously, this is what i would do.

• take out that plastic bottle
• remove the battery
• remove the battery tray
• undo the 10mm bolt that holds down the ground cable under the battery tray
• make a new ground cable with a ring terminal that is longer than the one that goes to the battery right now
• get a battery terminal that allows for you to use a bolt to clamp down the new ground wire (like the ones i used in my link above)
• get rid of that terminal extender
• go buy a battery tie down kit or you can use a rubber bungi cord and make a tie down.
• move those amps to under the false floor. the second panel next to the rear seats
• toss the caps and get a small sp680 stinger battery and also mount it under the false floor.

No need to see the amps and stuff. Just a few suggestions. here is my first volvo from 04 with 4 jl 10's and a whole buncha stuff

Personally im not a fan of JL....their subs sound great but are not really quality materials....they blow too easily and the foam disinegrates... heres an example...
jl audio 12w3v3


jl audio 6w3v3


Now heres a real sub

memphis mojo 12




To each their own though....

"meant to add this"


to each thier own though....

[andyb5]

To be fair, if you're going to compare 2 subs from different manufacturers, at least compare ones with similar specs.
Which in this case would be a JL W7, not a W3 as pictured above.

Looks a bit more substantial than a W3