What Did I Just Do To My Car? Need Electrical Short Advice
Posted 08 May 2012 - 03:14 AM
I went to start the car and when I turned it to the run position to charge the fuel rail (I have not actually started the car yet) There was a slightly unusual noise from under the hood, not sure what exactly, then all the lights (headlamps, dash lights possibly the entire electrical system) turned on and then off for a second then back on. So there was a very brief moment when the lights went out and then back on. This happens every time you turn the ignition to the run position. (before starting, and again I have not tried to start the car yet) I tried three times in a row and the amount of time that the lights went off increased slightly everytime.. after this little blackout happens the lights go on and stay on....
What should I look for here? I'm not sure what would cause this but I'm very reluctant to actually start the car until I can figure out what shorted out.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 05:03 AM
If they were a little grungy and you cooked'em with a short, they may have
gotten bad enough to drop out briefly like you described. Getting a little worse
every time fits the bill. If it's as marginal as you said, the starter might not turn over
even if you did try to crank it. That poor a connection probably won't handle the current.
Just for grins - Pull, inspect, clean and reconnect both battery posts.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 05:21 AM
97' B5234T Installed into 98' S70GLT :
Forged 81.5mm Wiseco Pistons, 143mm RSI H-beam Con-rod, 15g con flange, R-manifold, 2-1/2" to 3" exhaust. M56hk, Spec Stage +2 clutch. 98' T5 ECU, 347cc white injectors. 470 Miles on new engine.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 12:01 PM
That's a puzzler; simply shorting the battery via the starter contact momentarily shouldn't have damaged anything. It's not as is you could have pinched the harness when doing the re-install, and the engine harness has nothing to do with lights, etc, anyway.
I'd just disconnect the battery entirely for a few minutes to reset, then try again. I'd go ahead & start it up at that point, to make sure it runs OK, which it should.
1998 V70 XR M66 PTE6262 BB Built '04 2.3l Block Wiseco Pistons 147mm H-Beams '03 Ported Head EnemY21Cams TurboTuner 710cc Inj, DW300, 3" DP back Dual Magnaflow 14834's Apr 2013 408WHP AWD (@7925rpm)
347WTq(@4400rpm)@18psi LGSpeed Header Custom Intake Manifold 30x12.5x3.5"Treadstone FMIC Spec Stage III+ SO603FS Kaplhenke CoilOvers
Posted 08 May 2012 - 02:53 PM
Also wondering if somehow I damaged the ignition switch or fuel injector/main relay now, seemed like the noise was coming from the fuel injector area or to the left of the engine bay.. it was hard to tell exactly but it was not normal.
Edited by sconeman, 08 May 2012 - 02:54 PM.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 09:12 PM
'95 850 GLT 227k M56H ARD 850R/T5-R STUFF
Posted 08 May 2012 - 10:57 PM
Go through and see if there are codes, then reset and see if its starts.
I picked a pretty circuitous route and arguably cheated slightly, but I'm going to get there
1995 854 T5M Click for Mods
2005 S60 2.5 T
2013 MB GLK 350
Posted 08 May 2012 - 11:04 PM
I checked out all the relays but I already ordered a new main relay (and FPR) from FCP this morning. Last night when I was taking off the manifold I found that the vac line to the FPR was loose and the FPR is leaking. Also found a semi loose vac line on the intake mani. I also found some really badly damaged wire of the main relay so I'm going to have that redone this week.
if there was some reason that it was not getting enough voltage than the relay itself mayhave been making the noise I heard.
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
Edited by sconeman, 08 May 2012 - 11:06 PM.