72 replies to this topic

[laird]

I am putting an 01 LPT motor in the R, using the 19T for now with the 20G waiting on me to weld some pipe.
I had to bore (ok drill out) the cams to accomodate the distributor plate and Cam position sensor. I sourced a new(er) AC compressor and Alternator and PS pump and am using the new accesory bracket which I feel is a huge inmprovement alone.
For now the engine is bone stock internally but I may put my forged rods in once the current motor is on the bench.
I will use the existing intake manifold and open up the ports as much as possible to mate better with the RN head.

[Commander Riker]

Good job! I love my RN motor. If you have any questions on install, feel free to drop a PM and I'll answer what I can.

[laird]

I'm a little iffy on the VVT. I have a solenoid bolted up but I'm not sure what's going to happen without any control. I can pick up an exhaust cam from a 99 NA motor that isn't VVT, that may be a good idea. I think I have the timing belt installed correctly, first time on a newer motor but I got some good info from another member. Need a rear cam seal for the intake , there wasn't one behind the distributor plug.??? Should be ready to install the engine in the morning.

[Matty Moo]

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I&#39;m a little iffy on the VVT. I have a solenoid bolted up but I&#39;m not sure what&#39;s going to happen without any control. I can pick up an exhaust cam from a 99 NA motor that isn&#39;t VVT, that may be a good idea.  I think I have the timing belt installed correctly, first time on a newer motor but I got some good info from another member. Need a rear cam seal for the intake , there wasn&#39;t one behind the distributor plug.??? Should be ready to install the engine in the morning.<br />

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Correct..you will have to put in a rear cam seal on the intake cam. The rn block doesn't have it, just the plastic plug where the distributor would be. Easy stuff though, it installs just like it would normally, just tap it in.
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[98glt-5]

I'm a little iffy on the VVT. I have a solenoid bolted up but I'm not sure what's going to happen without any control. I can pick up an exhaust cam from a 99 NA motor that isn't VVT, that may be a good idea. I think I have the timing belt installed correctly, first time on a newer motor but I got some good info from another member. Need a rear cam seal for the intake , there wasn't one behind the distributor plug.??? Should be ready to install the engine in the morning.

Just did a rn swap a few weeks ago. Just line up the timing marks, throw the belt on and leave the VVT solenoid on there, nothing happens, cam stays where you put it and everyones happy!

[Simply Volvo]

looking great! Ill be following this!

[Commander Riker]

Just did a rn swap a few weeks ago. Just line up the timing marks, throw the belt on and leave the VVT solenoid on there, nothing happens, cam stays where you put it and everyones happy!

It is my understanding that the proper procedure is to bring everything to TDC, one quarter turn forward and then one quarter turn back to release any tension in the VVT.

Do not worry about running with the VVT unplug. It works beautifully. You'll see. Good luck!

[lookforjoe]

Looks Great!

You can always weld the hub like Volvo5.0.

Hard to fit the fuel lines over the head with the VVT solenoid in place.

Check to see if the later block has the boss on the water pump / casting used for the fuel line support bracket. I wouldn't leave that off - I braised the bracket to the water pipe on mine.

[NEU]

I can pick up an exhaust cam from a 99 NA motor that isn't VVT, that may be a good idea.

I'm sure you just want to replace the VVT hub, but the best cam for the exhaust is the turbo @9.05 lift, '99 NA exhaust cam is 8.80 lift. For the intake the NA cam would be a better choice to swap, 8.65 lift vs the turbo 8.40 or 8.40 depending on the motor.

http://volvospeed.co...k/#entry1811561

[laird]

Looks Great!

You can always weld the hub like Volvo5.0.

Hard to fit the fuel lines over the head with the VVT solenoid in place.

Check to see if the later block has the boss on the water pump / casting used for the fuel line support bracket. I wouldn't leave that off - I braised the bracket to the water pipe on mine.

The fuel lines are a concern, I was looking at that last night but ran out of smarts about midnight.
I thought about getting some braided lines made to run over the top. We'll see.
Ran out of wire for the welder, yet another trip to the store.

I'm sure you just want to replace the VVT hub, but the best cam for the exhaust is the turbo @9.05 lift, '99 NA exhaust cam is 8.80 lift. For the intake the NA cam would be a better choice to swap, 8.65 lift vs the turbo 8.40 or 8.40 depending on the motor.

http://volvospeed.co...k/#entry1811561

I have the 01 turbo motor so the cam is good I guess. Maybe I'll look at grabbing a fixed hub or do as suggested and weld the VVT.

[D s50r]

How do u weld it does anyone have pics?

[Kevin.]

When I do my RN swap Im going to try to pickup a 99 or 00 V70 so I can keep the coilpacks and VVT. GL with the install OP

[mdlimy]

How do u weld it does anyone have pics?

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/137410-my-ghetto-vvt-delete/page__hl__%2Bweld

[Commander Riker]

Ran custom braided fuel lines up and over... highly recommended. With the stock hard lines, you won't be able to get the timing cover off on the passenger side, which covers the first cylinder. PITA.

Mad thanks to Dan for helping knock out this project before my trip. It's been a super solid mod, and the aeromotive FPR is cool!

ALSO... note that I notched the timing cover near the coolant line. If not, it can rub and wear the coolant line quite quickly.

[550]

You can keep the stock FPR and run braided as well, but Lucas' setup looks simple enough too. Bad ass!

I'm still running my hard lines with the VVT solenoid, I had no issues to speak of.

[sconeman]

easiest way is to remove the solenoind and use a blanking plate, run the fuel lines under the cover. Or I would go with a setup like Korruptions. I think Volvo 5.0 used the newer lines... another alternative.

[550]

easiest way is to remove the solenoind and use a blanking plate, run the fuel lines under the cover. Or I would go with a setup like Korruptions. I think Volvo 5.0 used the newer lines... another alternative.

And if you do that you need to turn the cam back on the hub... so there is no play.

[laird]

Well I have been busy with the install and here is where I am.
First, this is how the timing marks look.
Next, there were some unforeseen issues with the front motor mount. The P2 mount doesn't work, what? So initially, I took the grinder out and made the old one work. Then on one of my bi-weekly junkyard trips, I found the P80/RN mount and that solved my problem.The one in the middle is what you want. On the right, not so much.
Next was getting the old manifold to mate up a little better to the larger RN ports. I got pretty close using an old Intake manifold gasket as template
I got things all buttoned up and fired it up and was delighted that she runs. Sounds nice and tight and smoke free.
Then the bad. I obviously Fubared something because my new RMS leaks like a sieve:(
I'll just practice that motor in/out/ move like Hussien:)
More to follow.

[laird]

I just left the cover off for the fuel lines but I think that I will likely put them under the cover when all is said and done.
I also spent some time test fitting the 20G when I had the engine on the floor and did some grinding on the rear mount. I ended up putting the rear mount in without the black steel "shield" which should allow the large compressor to fit without grinding too much on the compressor housing. I pondered for a while the true meaning of that black shroud and couldn't really come up with much so it's s gone. I know it is a major PITA when trying to do a tranny removal. If it turns out my engineering estimating is off, I have a few spares.
I cut out a piece of it that fits between the damper and the bracket to keep all at the proper height.

[lookforjoe]

Sorry to hear the rear main is leaking! At least you can just drop the trans to access it - no reason to pull the motor...