Tranny Too Full?
#1
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:32 AM
piece & bubles
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#2
Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:51 AM
i meant torque converter, its lateIts not exactly a good thing to do, and it can cause bubbles to appear on the dipstick, as for shifting rough I doubt that's related to overfilling, I may be wrong but maybe its the torque inverter? how long has it been shifting like that?
2000 V70R Silver- Project: Need hood and R bumper!!!
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport, 5.2 5speed. Stock.... for now
#3
Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:51 AM
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#4
Posted 22 May 2012 - 02:12 PM
'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out
'04 S60R - 125k
#5
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:14 PM
#6
Posted 22 May 2012 - 07:16 PM
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#7
Posted 22 May 2012 - 07:31 PM
Unlikely as the tranny as a vent...At the least, you're gonna blow all your seals out, input shaft seal and both axle seals.
#8
Posted 23 May 2012 - 12:36 AM
Where the hell is the vent?Unlikely as the tranny as a vent...
'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out
'04 S60R - 125k
#9
Posted 23 May 2012 - 12:54 AM
Realistically, it won't harm the tranny in the long run. Better to have to much then to little!
(personal opinion only)
#10
Posted 23 May 2012 - 03:27 AM
1996 854 T5
M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

#11
Posted 23 May 2012 - 04:12 AM
#12
Posted 23 May 2012 - 02:24 PM
#13
Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:51 AM
one related question: IIRC, accurate readings on these tranny dipsticks seems difficult. i drained and refilled with 7-7.5 qts (mitchell's manual calls for 8.0 even); but the dipstick never reads exactly within either the hot or cold range on the dipsitck. i believe that i do make out a visible "lumping" if you will within the hot or cold range on the dipstick. but as far as i remember, the readings on these tranny dipsticks never have the same consistency as the oil dip or other sticks. does anyone have advice or confident knowledge about this? about reading the tranny dipsticks on these vehicles accurately? update: i think what is adding to my confusion over these questions is this: Haynes specifies 8.0 quarts for a drain/refill; Mitchells (which is more official/from the manufacturer) specifices 3.3 QUARTS! Mitchells calls it a "fluid change" but is a drain/refill. also there is no filter change on these trannies...blahblah. now: 8.0 is the dry capacity, overhaul specification, etc. also, the fact that there is a vent points to the commonness of overfilling or something else. now: assuming i had the correct 8.0 qts after my new tranny was installed, this means that i now have 4 extra quarts of fluid in my tranny. (i put 7-7.5 qts in). so at the very least Haynes needs to either change their specification or change how they label their 8.0 qt. spec. also, it makes sense that i'm always reading overfill on the stick since upon any drain/refill, if i go by the Haynes manual specs, 4.7 quarts STAY INSIDE THE LINES/ETC.!! but if i go by the more official Mitchells specs, its still just a dilution at best of the fluid/not a very thorough channge and mos def not a real flush. its fucky. this is why i prefer the flush that someone on this forum devised...for obvious reasons. a drain/refill is a dilution at best...and i'm wasting good $ on good Mobile1 synthetic transmission fluid because its not a flush or even a thorough fluid change. (btw Volvo has no recomendation for any flushing procedures for the life of the tranny. drain/refill is the only "official" way to clean or replace the tranny fluid. the filter is up inside the tranny and does not get changed or easily cleaned/replaced. ) fuckyfucky, as bubbles would say! so i'm going to go ahead and drain 4 qts. tomorrow and assume that i'm somewhere near 8.0 qts. fucking wtf omg. actually all this makes a morbid sort of sense now: the vent probably filters the excess since the internal filter never gets changed or cleaned. so in other words the fluid level does reach its normal and correct operating level through the vent leakage. it still doesn't make a rational sense; but a morbid one anyway. i wonder if the EPA knows about this phenomenon with volvos....ha. call em up. but basically, the fluid does go through a sort of flushing, even though its not in the usual sense or commmonly used tactics...its still fucky bubbles.
also related: the tranny performance seems okay or better since the drain/refill. some slight hiccups at first but the shifting does seem smoother although from Park positin to Reverse is still rough...i'm not too worrried about this one since i have been noticing this particular symptom for a long time...even on my other tranny. plus i had a new PNP switch put in and all other symptoms remain the same or better with no severe symptoms or fails in evidence.
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#14
Posted 24 May 2012 - 10:58 AM
As for reading the dipstick, you need to get the tranny hot from driving, park it and keep the vehicle running while you check the fluid. Make sure the HOT mark is facing the firewall and check the fluid level. It will read perfect this way! So, running, hot and on the hot mark. Don't mess with the cold mark or read it while it's cold or not running. It won't give a good reading!
Also it's not Volvo that designed the internal filter, this is a Asian Warner tranny that comes in a lot to vehicles like Saturns, Saabs, Toyotas and so forth. All with the internal filters... It's not even really a filter, as more of a screen to keep large particles out of the valve body. In this system a paper style filter really isn't needed in the first place and this internal screen won't get clogged unless you poor sand into the tranny!
#15
Posted 25 May 2012 - 12:32 AM
cereally though, are you a transmission expert?
piece.
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#16
Posted 25 May 2012 - 10:47 AM
piece
1993 Volvo 854 N/A, '95 A/T (unknown model), 187K miles (closer to 200K: odo broke a while;), dreaming of mods
#17
Posted 25 May 2012 - 01:57 PM
As for the above issue, personally, I would just keep it in drive and not put it in neutral is it's not needed.
#18
Posted 25 May 2012 - 05:31 PM
'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out
'04 S60R - 125k
#19
Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:20 PM
#20
Posted 26 May 2012 - 01:46 AM
Just saying what VADIS saysThat's excessive! I've never had an issue with just around the block a couple times as long as the motor get up to temp.
'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out
'04 S60R - 125k














