16 replies to this topic

[Paul33603]

A few more issues with the $1000 2000 S70 that I am afraid of! I finally registered the S70 today and I dont think I should have. On the way home from registering the car the oil light came on. NOT good was scared made sure to turn the AC off and radio down to listen for strange noises. Drove it home after the light was lit about a half mile. I know I am in need of replacing the oil trap system and am guessing the oil pan O-rings. Does the oil trap have anything to do with the oil light ocming on?
I changed the oil and filter as soon as I got home just hoping that the oil and filter was dirty which it was. After the filter and oil change the lite still lites up after the engine warms up. I will not be driving the car till this is fixed. I have read to check the o rings in the pan, idle the engine for 2 mintues till warm shut the car off and remove the dipstick clean it, pull it again and look for airbubbles. No bubbles.
There was a weird issue with the filter change. It looked like there was some type of copper shavings from the oil filter. After the oil filter sat on the oil drain bucket, I could see shaving that looked of copper. Does anyone have any idea if this could be some type of oil additive of some type like a snake oil or something? What should I do?
Also got anyother code P1672. I have done internet searches and forum searches not leading to much information. Anyone have any idea what this code leads too?

Please post,
Any advice would be appreicated!
Paul

[burnout8488]

The first step when the oil light comes on is to turn the engine off, IMMEDIATELY, not turn down your climate control so you can hear if something bad will happen. The copper is from engine bearing material, probably from driving with no oil pressure. That half mile could have been the last straw. Continuing to run this engine with the oil light lit for any amount of time is absolutely insane. STOP, and fix the sump o-rings as a first step, if you haven't already toasted your motor.

Edited by burnout8488, 25 May 2012 - 11:52 PM.

[Keaton85]

Clogged oil pan screen.

Run vehicle untill warm/hot (idle) if the light comes on turn off the vehicle instantly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Right after shut down, drain the oil into a very clean container. After strain the oil through a cloth and not how many particles some out. Repeat this unit it comes out clean. Reusing the same oil...

Use 20weight, thinner the better.

Without knowing more that's my first conclusion. Whatever you do dont drive the vehicle. Never let the light stay on!!! When it's lit there is no oil pressure and damage happens fast.

[Paul33603]

Well thanks for your replies even if its something i did not want to hear. Engine to my knowledge is fine. Still runs without knocks or weird noises. i guess you learn something everyday even if it could have been disasterious i thought the oil light meant low pressure, i did not realize it meant NO pressure if i did know that i would not have driven the car from that point.
i dont understand how this could have happend i havent driven the car since purchasng it a week or two ago. i had to drive it from Lakeland to Tampa which is about a 40 mile trip. Why did this happen all of the suddon?
All i have done is Seafoamed the Vac line then changed the spark plugs. Also now the oil and filter. So in warming the car up and draining the oil what should i use to filter the fluid through like a cotton towel or? i will definitly keep my eye on the oil light. While warming. i guess if the light comes on its going to my indie. Double darn it!!
Thanks for you replies!

[Keaton85]

I just use an old white shirt. By warming the oil up for a while and running it you will stir up the particles. You have to drain the oil out right after or they all settle to the bottom of the pan. If you get a l

You can tell how bad it is depending on how many particles you get when drained.

Nothing your mechanic can do about any of this.

[Paul33603]

Well i started the car to put it back in my driveway under the carport. No light thank goodness. What are your thoughts on Seafoam in the engine? Running it for 30 minutes to use as a flush if the light appears turning off the engine right away and starting over. There are signs off cooked on oil on the dipstick so i am sure the engine is caked up. i have never used Seafoam in that way but am pondering tryin it. i have looked for a used engine if needed found a few for under $700 at local parts yards i dont want to go that route but will if i have to. So Seafoam in the engine or not? i do have a spare Auto-rx from using it in the Saab. But i dont think that would work fast enough since i am not giing to be driving the car.
info appreicated!
Thanks again,
Paul

[optimus prime]

you should probably refrain from seafoaming and flush the engine with oil strain and repeat until clear. i think theres a chance seafoam may loosen up more and cause the clogging to get worse. im no expert though so take that with a grain of salt or whatever.

[Paul33603]

Thanks for your reply! So i did hold off of the Seafoam treatmeat today started the car, warmed up without an issue basically no oil light. i revved the engine to 3k no light no weird knocking or signs of engine malfunction went to 5k with no light. i am still scared to take the car out on the road due to the light might come on. i do plan next week on the filtering of the oil thru an old tee shirt i really hope this works. i just dont understand on why this happend while driving but no light today while warming or revving. Someone please enlighten me. Is it the previous owner just did not change the oil and filter and everything was gummed up is that even possible?

thanks in advance
Paul

[Paul33603]

Keaton85 i will be using your meathod on Tues or Wed. Also wondering what to do about the oil filter/cassette. Should i remove it and check for particles after draining the oil and filtering it? Or drop the oil filter right after the oil is removed? i am still freaked out about the oil light even though it hasnt lit today after what i post previously.
Thanks again!!

[Keaton85]

Leave the filter alone. It's not the issue. Your issue is large particles that are building up on the pick-up screen. The reason it's not doing it while idling or revving is you are not sloshing the oil around like when you drive.

Thats just the best guess as I don't know the vehicles history is there is a lt of build up that has been dislodged from something.

You have to repeat the filtering process a lot! Over and over with the same oil untill almost no particles come out. Last time it took me 10-15 times.

[Keaton85]

Then you can do an auto-rx treatment. Don't mess with seafoam. I've done this a few times and it's te only process that I have found that works.

Another one is to drain K1 through the system repeatedly. But that's up to you!!

[Paul33603]

ok i have done the oil cleanout recommended by Keaton. i got a lot of junk out. it was time consuming however easy to do. i got everything from small clumps of i am guessing leaves to chunks of oil solids. it was a good idea and process, i used old white tee shirts used about 5 diffrent ones to track the sediment, no metal shavings tho thank goodness. After taking the car around the block the oil light came on when sitting in the driveway. Damnit!!! i repeated the process more than 15 times till i saw no more solids in the oil. Could it be the orings for the sump pump in the oil pan? i am not driving the car till i get this fixed.

thanks for you replies!

[Paul33603]

Ok after doing a lot of reading i am going to tackle the o rings next week. Has anyone used another gasket sealer that is Anaerobic chemical gasket sealer. i see Amazon sells one for about half the price of the one that ipd sells. i would like to save a little money on the sealer. i have found the oring kit on eeuroparts for much cheaper than ipd. i mean is all Anaerobic chemical gasket the same? Any tips on tackling this job?

Thanks again
Paul

[Keaton85]

Atleast you got some of the stuff out. All the junk that you filtered is what is clogging your screen....

Very wise idea to do the pump seals, and while you have the pan off, see if a local machine shop will hot tank it for you. That is if the pan is really dirty which it probably is.

As for the sealant, you only want to do this once, so get the Volvo pink stuff!!

[S80T6P_T_M]

I wanted to add my issues I had with the oil light. Ill sum it up as its a long story.. It was on my road to stage 0.. if you like long storys look my post up on new S80 T6 owner..

before oil change added 1/3 can of seafoam to the crankcase as well as tank and vac line. ran car for 30 min. in idle

test drive and at WOT kicked light on, after restart light was off. At this point I could get it to come on a few times at idle.

flushed and changed oil/filter and (very scared too so I know the feeling) but it turned out I got the sludge out from the flushing and no longer got the light.

Hope you solve this the easy way if you havent already, I thought I would be changing O-rings but Im glad i didnt have too and I hope you dont.

[Paul33603]

Got around to the orings today. Everything went as planned although it did take all damn day! the oil pan was full of bad sludge. was so happy to get this done today! Took the car out on the interstate no oil light even after warm woo hoo!
Now i have another problem. During my test run i thought i royally fudged something up pulled off the interstate checked the oil no issues. Now the car sounded like a diesel and shook. The check engine light was blinking or flashing have never seen that before. Car was idleing like garbage thought it was going to stall and wouldnt go any faster than 50 mph. Does this sound like the ignition coils? i am going to check engine codes in the morning. If it is one of the ignition coil do all of them have to be replaced or just the one causing the miss fire?

Another thing the oil pickup tube screen was clogged big time. Surprised i didnt end up blowing the engine!

[Keaton85]

For now replace just the one ignition coil that is causing the issue.

As for the build-up in the pan and screen. That is exactly what I was saying with my posts, and the repeated oil draining and filtering has been the only real method for me that has worked.

Ive taken oil pans out and done the cleaning and still, the screen clogs! Not to get you worried, but you are not out of the woods yet...

What I would do know, is order Auto-RX and use 20 weight oil. Do a sludge treatment a few times and keep up with the oil changes. Use dino oil and not synthetic so that you can change the oil for frequent at a reasonable cost. This has been the only way other that I have been able to save the sludgy motors.

IF, you still can't get the motor clean then the last ditch effort is to pull the pan and put holes in the pick-up screen. You run the risk of damaging the oil pump BUT it's either replace the motor or run it with a holy pick-up screen haha. After a while the oil filter will get all of the sludge out without the pick-up screen in the way.