16 replies to this topic

[Rsterns]

Greetings, I don't get an opportunity to frequent this page too often, but I find myself needing the expertise of the Volvo audiophiles. I just finished Dynomating my 99 V70 T5, and replacing the OEM door speakers with a new set of Polk’s. No issues there as they are working fine. My problem is I want more base, door woofers just don’t cut it. My HU is an SC-901 and I have the Prologic center channel. I’m not looking to loosen fillings, as I listen mainly to jazz, but some sort of boxed sub with appropriate amp is in order. Is this doable with the 901? Looking for suggestions and a path forward to a solution. Thanks in advance.

[andyb5]

Hi Bob,
Since your 901 has a factory amp, you can't use the factory amp connection to send a signal to an aftermarket amp. You'll need a line output converter to take a signal from one the speakers and reduce it to an amp-level signal. For your music preferences, I think you'd like a single 8" or 10" subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.

[Rsterns]

Hi Bob,
Since your 901 has a factory amp, you can't use the factory amp connection to send a signal to an aftermarket amp. You'll need a line output converter to take a signal from one the speakers and reduce it to an amp-level signal. For your music preferences, I think you'd like a single 8" or 10" subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.

Thanks Adam, That's just the information I needed. One last question, as this is not my area, is it appropriate to provide power to an aftermarket amp directly from the battery, and if so for a 10' what size amp and gage wire?

[Jesus]

http://www.discountc...m/AiH-VOL2.html

[andyb5]

^^Very cool. I'd recommend using that instead of the line output converter I mentioned earlier.

Yes, you will need to provide power directly from the battery. For your setup, I'd go with 8AWG power and ground cables. For your needs, look for an amp with ~250 watts of RMS (not peak) power.

[Rsterns]

Wow, this is getting better by the moment! Thank you; That is a perfect solution for the addition, still looking for any guidance related to size amp to drive a 10 in sub.

Can't edit and the answers have been flying real time, I love it and Thanks! Now I just have to go shopping.

[JRL]

Bob
I used only a single 100W amp to power two 8" Kicker free air subs on my 99 S70T5 and it was quite adequate.
I think you're like me and only need "filler" bass and do not want or need the ground to shake!

BTW, how are these speakers compared to the OEM speakers that were in there?
Jim

[Rsterns]

Bob
I used only a single 100W amp to power two 8" Kicker free air subs on my 99 S70T5 and it was quite adequate.
I think you're like me and only need "filler" bass and do not want or need the ground to shake!

BTW, how are these speakers compared to the OEM speakers that were in there?
Jim

Hi Jim,
The speakers are a real improvement as they don't 'buzz' with a bit of volume. The fade is acting a bit odd, most likely because the rears are now 4 ohm instead of the 8 ohm that came out. One thing I'm considering, as it's a cheap experiment, found some 4 ohm 100W resistors, might try to put it in series to make it an 8 ohm speaker and see if that corrects anything.

[TaskMule]

I have one of those wiring adapters in my 850R, connected with 8G wire to a 100w monoblock Pioneer amp, and a single Infinity 10" in a sealed box. Simple install, and woks perfectly. It is perfect for me, and fills the low end nicely without blowing the windows off the car. I can recommend that adapter for your use. SO much better than a line adapter, which I initially tried. It was terrible.

[andyb5]

Bob--one thing I forgot to ask in my PM was do you still have the D-pillar speakers connected?

[Rsterns]

Bob--one thing I forgot to ask in my PM was do you still have the D-pillar speakers connected?

Andy, yes I do, they are still OEM, haven't even pulled the grill to look at them yet.

[BEJinFBK]

Resistors are static loads. Speaker voice coils are dynamic loads.
I would avoid involving any fixed resistors and adjust the fader to
where it sounds right for you for now, as your modified system sits.
If it's still a problem after you add the sub, there are better tweaks.

[Rsterns]

Resistors are static loads. Speaker voice coils are dynamic loads.
I would avoid involving any fixed resistors and adjust the fader to
where it sounds right for you for now, as your modified system sits.
If it's still a problem after you add the sub, there are better tweaks.

Thanks, I've done further research and agree that was not a sound solution (pun intended). Through Andyb5 however, I did learn about the equalizer I didn't know I had in the 901, (only had the car now for a few months), anyway, I couldn’t wait till morning, so I just finished spending the last 20 minutes or so out in the dark futzing with the equalizer, the rear speakers have now come alive, and I will sleep very well this evening.

[Mesoam]

IMHO your best bed for what you want is a Basslink

[Rsterns]

My solution based on input that I'll be installing this weekend.

[Rsterns]

As previously stated I installed the Subwoofer upgrade today...A few pics...

Molding removed


Fuse and + cable installed



Adapter harness, Sub Remote and RCA cabling installed



Everything run to the back



Good Ground



All hooked up, sounds fabulous!

[andyb5]

Lookin good Bob! Hope you enjoy it all.