13 replies to this topic

[raged]

Good day gentlemen.
I was looking to find a 1998-200, 5 speed T5 wagon and finally found one.

Stoked.

The wagon needs new struts. I'm looking for suggestions for an upgrade. I'm not looking for hardcore performance here, but a slight improvement to the OEM setup would be great, as well as a lower stance.

While I'm at it, what else should I consider replacing suspensionwise? What are the names of the bushings that are most likely worn at this point?

I have noticed an ocational idle and acceleration issue. I picked up mass airflow sensor cleaner to start trouble shooting. My question is, removing the mass airflow sensor for a quick clean up ans inspection will require me to do anything to the computer when it's time ot put it back? I have never owned a car with so many sensors.

Any other suggestions and advice will be great!

[Burn-E]

You haven't specified the year of your V70 T5M. If it's 1998 then the issues with acceleration will point in one direction. If it's a 1999 or 2000 then we start to discuss the ETM.

And please be more specific about the symptoms you're encountering. At certain speeds? At certain RPM? Does it stumble? Do the RPM jump or drop at idle?

Please clarify and more help can be provided.

Also, mileage on the car?

[atefitty]

Good day gentlemen.
I was looking to find a 1998-200, 5 speed T5 wagon and finally found one.

Stoked.

The wagon needs new struts. I'm looking for suggestions for an upgrade. I'm not looking for hardcore performance here, but a slight improvement to the OEM setup would be great, as well as a lower stance.

While I'm at it, what else should I consider replacing suspensionwise? What are the names of the bushings that are most likely worn at this point?

I have noticed an ocational idle and acceleration issue. I picked up mass airflow sensor cleaner to start trouble shooting. My question is, removing the mass airflow sensor for a quick clean up ans inspection will require me to do anything to the computer when it's time ot put it back? I have never owned a car with so many sensors.

Any other suggestions and advice will be great!

I would not get Bilsteins unless you like to go to the track or don't care about the ride. I got them and they are very harsh on the roads. I'm not sure whats available that will lower the ride height but still be smooth. I would think you need to get lowering springs also to effect ride height. Getting struts alone may not lower it at all, it may even make it a little higher since they are fresh.

[Burn-E]

Lowering springs will bring the ride lower. If you want adjustable then there are three options: Koni yellows, D2s, and TA coilovers.

If you just want a better suspension setup then Bilsteins (HDs are very firm), Koni FSD (probably the best balance between performance and ride smoothness) are worth considering. Eibach and IPD both offer lowering springs. The IPD blues are among the lowest available. Consider the IPD sway bars also.

[raged]

It's a 1999 model. The reason I want to start by checking the Mass Airflow Sensor is because this is what the previous owner suggested, according to his mechanic. I haven't bought my own OBD reader.

Sometimes when I accelerate the engine stutters and revs higher, as if I was pumping the gas pedal randomly and very quickly. It doesn't happen very often. When this happens the check engine light comes on. The check engine light will stay on and eventually turn itself off.

What is the ETM?

Thank you for your prompt replies.

[Ian Carr]

ETM is the Electronic Throttle, a known problem with the 99-00 X70s. It was the first year with the ME7 ecu, and first year with drive by wire. The wear strips in the throttle wear down, and cause the car to have problems. A search will yield common ETM problems.

Start with a fresh set of plugs, air filter, and with 99's the coil packs do wear out. My money would be on a coil pack, as it sounds exactly like what has happened with me in the past. Go to an advanced auto parts with the CEL on and they will scan it and tell you the code for free.

[Burn-E]

You still haven't stated mileage on the car. That would help answer some standard questions as to probable condition of the car given typical maintenance and what might be causing your issues. Do you have a stack of repair slips from the previous owner showing the car was well maintained?

If it's a 1999 then everything Ian stated above is under consideration and should be done as part of a standard Stage 0 sort out of the car - this means bringing it back to a solid performing car - much as it was on day 0 when it rolled out of the showroom.

But the ETM is still the prime suspect. Especially given the other symptoms you are encountering. Was the previous owner's a mechanic a Volvo technician? Someone who really knows these vehicles? Because if he's pointing to the MAF then the ETM isn't far behind it. They fail in pairs for a 1999.

You have more reading to do:

http://www.matthewsv...e-module-fiasco

http://www.matthewsv...hp?f=12&t=17252 (Read this one carefully - George, the author, has 500k miles on his 1999 S70 and as a result he has deep experience in what a failing ETM looks and feels like.)

[raged]

Sorry, milage is 200k.

Here's a brief history
4 years ago the previous owner broke the engine when the car overheated.
They had the head of the engine replaced.

Most recent parts replaced, coils, fuel pump and oxygen sensor.
They were trouble shooting the check engine light, and must've thought they found the problem.
I did not see the check engine light turn on until the 3rd day after I bought it.

But right now that is the least of my concerns.
Today I noticed a slight clacking noise when the car is on.
I'm not sure what to make of it so I recorded the engine while running.







Does this engine sound ok?

[JRL]

Ok?
No, it doesn't sound "OK", it sounds like junk.
You have some serious issues here

[Burn-E]

Without jumping to the obvious and disastrous conclusions (valve tap,rod knock), what's the oil level in your car? You may not be getting the oil where it needs to be - oil o-rings or pump.

[fst aslp]

Does it do this when the clutch is pressed?

[raged]

Sounds like this all the time.
I think I just purchased someone elses problem.
Its a shame, the interior and the body is in such good shape.
I filled the oil all the way, which was not particularly low in the 1st place.

Probably will look into donating it.

Thank you for all the very helpful advice.

[raged]

Update, a buddy from work checked out the car and found that I have a vaccum leak.
Not sure where just yet. When you take the oil cap out the engine runs the same way, instead of hesitating so, I have to start looking into that.

He looked into the clacking noise and, just like fst aslp suggested, the noise seems to be coming from the clutch. The moment I press the clutch the noise goes away.
My friend did not think the engine sounded bad.

We looked at his OBD reader and got 2 codes, PO236 and PO237

Looking into this now.

Again, thank you all for taking the time to read and reply.

[raged]

Update.
I did a search for PO236 and PO237 and found a thread about the same issue I was having.
I changed my MAP sensor and the hesitation while accelerating is gone.
So is the check engine light.



Thank you very much everyone.