I am learning about CAN and the goal is to reverse engineer some CAN message so I could program some custom gages or use steering wheel buttons in a raspberry pi based infotainment system.
So I bought a cheap knock-off ELM327 OBD reader (not knowing it was not really suitable for CAN) and did some research. A couple days ago I installed a linux driver that turned the ELM327 into a best effort CAN device. I did some CAN sniffing/dumps (on v50 1.6D) which worked for a few minutes and then crashed. This is not my main problem, my main problem is that a few times my dash turned into a Christmas tree, I got warnings of brake failures and my engine stopt working (the only thing that I heard working was the oil pump). After opening and closing my door everything went back to how it's supposed to.
Now my question is why did this happen? Is it just because of the cheap OBD reader which interfered with the can network, is it a volvo thing? And which device should I use for CAN sniffing? Also any reading material or tips are always welcome.
thanks in advance,
So my SUM module (module that controls the active suspension) is toasted on my 2005 V70R. I went to a garage that had 4 in stock, but they did not work on my car. The mechanic told me those were very sensitive in terms of the loaded software which must fit with the car central unit.
Does anyone went tru the process of changing their SUM module (part NO, 30739073) with a used one?
The modules thar were tried were canadien part but my car is a US car; could that be the reason why they don't fit.
Any help is apriciated since now my only option seems to be to go to the dealer and by a new one 😞
By Pops Racer
I took the plunge on one of these. It is the latest and greatest revision, ARM 16 with the integral CANBUS.
On the CANBUS harness, there are 2 identical black connectors that plug in to the HU sockets.
upon further investigation this dope discovered these connectors are keyed differently. Installation is obvious...for some people
I need to get a code reader to help me track down various issues, the most vexing of which is my ABS and TRACS shutting off every so often after I feel the system test itself brief vibration on brake pedal). I know that the ABS module tends to fail on these cars but the fact that it happens inconsistently and always after a test cycle seems to say that it's a problem with one of the wheel sensors and I'd like to figure out which.
I've done a bunch of searches and have basically come up with an overwhelmingly confusing amount of information and alphabet soup on DiCE, VIDA, VADIS and whatever else. I'm not sure what would even work with my car. AFAIK most generic OBDII readers won't handle Volvo ABS codes, which leaves me looking for something Volvo specific hopefully without spending much more than $200. I really like the idea of VIDA, but would it even work with a car as old as mine?
If it helps, I have a Macbook running OSX 10.9.4 and a 6 year old HP with Windows 7 Home Premium.
Thanks for the help, it's been really confusing trying to sort through all this!
By Max Meade
Quick question for you guys!
So I just ordered some gauges and one of them is a voltage gauge. When I was going through and setting up some of the wiring tonight, I came across a problem that might persist, one that I am not quite sure how to fix. So basically, I want to hook up the two gauges so that when the interior lights are dimmed using the dimmer, the backlights will dim as well. I have seen this before and it seems relatively easy. I have the boost gauge install all figured out but the volt gauge I am not quite sure on for one reason. That is, how is the volt gauge supposed to read accurately if the positive is connected to the positive feed in the dimmer switch and the negative to ground? Won't the positive feed change depending on the dimness that the switch is set to? If so, is there any way I can go about fixing this? I know the gauge I ordered has a black and a red wire coming out the back.