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#1 cheat2win99

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Posted 25 June 2012 - 08:34 PM

this spring and metal plate go right behind the idler screw where the metal ball and plastic pivot arm meet for the throtttle body. I noticed when opening the throttle the metal plate was hitting the idler screw so i tried to crush it a little with pliers and ruined it. I put everything back together with the pivot arm onto the metal ball without the spring and metal plate, throttle seems to open fine and gas pedal feels ok. Is it okay to drive like this, don't really see a point in those other pieces anyway?

Posted Image
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#2 bergmjs

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 12:01 AM

If you're saying what I think you're saying, no, go get a new throttle body assembly. That would be the throttle return spring which you kinda need to close the throttle when you let off the gas. Why would you try to crush anything? Everything is designed to go together a very specific way and crushing something is not the solution for anything. The idler screw hits on purpose as a stop for calibrating the idle position of the throttle linkage.

Unless you're saying something else, then don't mind me.

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#3 cheat2win99

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 03:47 AM

well ive been driving around all night and it seems fine, so i guess its good. yes i have the piece on there where it hits the end of the screw where the metal ball is.
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#4 cheat2win99

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 03:53 AM

by the way this is the spring on the lower part, not the one in the black spool.
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#5 Bah

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 04:17 AM

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If I am understanding right, you no longer have that spring on your throttle body, you tore it off.



Posted Image

And your implying that the throttle linkage here is enough to open and close it.


It probably will work for now, but think about the concept of the linkage.

The linkage was designed to pull the throttle Open, not to close it. So your using the linkage to now not only pull, but push back.

With both springs present, the main linkage pulls while the other sits there fighting, then once you let off the gas it pulls it closed. Now you've deleted that, and you have to assume that the linkage will always push it closed. I can't see it getting a good seal tbh, you deleted ALOT of force that keeps that TB closed.

It may be considered over-engineering or a safety, but i see it as the only way you can get a good seal and know that 99.9999% of the time the throttle is closed...
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#6 survolvo

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 04:39 AM

It may be considered over-engineering or a safety, but i see it as the only way you can get a good seal and know that 99.9999% of the time the throttle is closed...


Your not driving right....

Should be more like this

It may be considered over-engineering or a safety, but i see it as the only way you can get a good seal and know that 99.9999% of the time the throttle is wide open...


Edited by survolvo, 26 June 2012 - 04:40 AM.

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M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#7 Bah

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 06:40 PM

:lol: :lol: :lol: lmfaooooo well i was saying when your foot is off the gas, but....maybe i should try this mod. I do drive like a granny :P
I live in Sunny Fl..Home of the beach!! (And Rust! )

1993 850 GLT - My Baby, Lanier
1996 850 R - My Love, Suwanee

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#8 bergmjs

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 10:27 PM

It definitely for safety, that linkage can pop off really easily in old age especially if it's being loaded not how it was intended to be. If one of those ball joints pops off, you're stuck at WOT with no way to come back down to idle.

'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out

'04 S60R - 125k


#9 cheat2win99

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 09:18 PM

ok well got everything back together, i see the little metal wing is not touching the end of the idler screw which i'm pretty sure is supposed to or be very close. If i'm under the hood and i fling the throttle hard it touches without the black plastic piece that connects the two metal balls, if i do it lightly it has a slight gap. I don't know what I screwed up, but I tried cleaning throttle body, tightened throttle plate, tried tightening, then loosening the cable to no avail. So when I actually connect the black plastic piece to the metal balls there is always a slight gap no matter how hard I hit the throttle. When I took off the tb hose I can see when there is a gap between the idler screw and metal wing obviously the throttle plate is just barely open as I can push it closed by hand then. This all happened only after I started cleaning crap, nothing looks bent, but something needs adjusting I guess.
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#10 bergmjs

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Posted 02 July 2012 - 12:01 AM

If you removed the throttle plate, maybe you didn't get it back perfectly concentric to the throttle body, loosen the plate screws a bit, close the throttle all the way and re-tighten.

'95 854 T5M 195k - Koni Yellows, IPD Strut Brace, IPD CAI, IPD 25mm front sway, IPD Poly Upper, M56H, NA TB+Mani, Japanifold, OBX exhaust w/ angled housing, IPD springs, 2.25" Plumbed FMIC, 18T, ARD Blue - DEAD - To be parted out

'04 S60R - 125k


#11 cheat2win99

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Posted 04 July 2012 - 11:13 AM

wow you were dead on, thank you, my rpms were also hanging because of this when i would barely hit the gas they would stay at 1500 and not go down, start climbing actually, can't even replicate the problem now, thanksssssss.
98 s70 glt - t5 conversion and more goodies




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