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#1 survolvo

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 08:57 PM

So when we bought the car, it had some small rust spots along top of the windshield. Over the last year, sitting next to the ocean, it has gotten a lot worse. I have tried the rust stop stuff on it, and it helped a little. Figured we need a new windshield at some point, as it was the original and all chipped, and figured thats when I would deal with the rust as it has probably spread into the windshield seal area.

Well Gf got home last night and windshield has a crack in it, so now is the time to replace it and fix the rust. Thats where you guys come in. I need some advice on the best way to go about this. I would like to do it myself. Pop out windshield, fix the rust, and have one of those Portable Windshield installers come out.


Here is the crack, not that big, but has grown since last night. I knew it was going to crack there eventully has there was a good sized chip when we got the car.
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And the rust. What do you guys think the best way to take care of this. I did some rust removal on my old 4-runner, but that was around the antenna on the fender. Also did a little bondo work on a dent, on my friends truck there in the background. Not sure what to really do here though.
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Rust and crack.
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Is this something that can be done myself, or would it be better to have a body shop do it. I am worried about the window leaking if not done right.

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M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#2 JagsT5R

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 09:29 PM

I'm no body expert, but I would imagine it's hard to know how much damage there might be under the windshield until it is out. From the looks of it, it's just surface rust and with some sanding and proper prep you should be able to take care of it. But I would take it by a body shop and let them take a look at it. Can't hurt.

#3 optimus prime

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Posted 11 July 2012 - 09:43 PM

piano wire,wire brush 80 through 800 grit sandpaper,bondo,rattle can primer and a can of touch up paint in aerosol form from your local napa or similar store if you are comfortable with all of these words then go for it if not have a local body shop do it.

Edited by optimus prime, 11 July 2012 - 09:43 PM.

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#4 Dan A

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 02:42 AM

<p>

piano wire,wire brush 80 through 800  grit sandpaper,bondo,rattle can primer and a can of touch up paint in aerosol form from your local napa or similar store if you are comfortable with all of these words then go for it if not have a local body shop do it.

I had a spot like that and this is pretty much what had to be done with mine. A rust prohibitor was also used for good measure prior to filling. So far so good.


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#5 Matty Moo

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 03:26 AM

That's crazy. I didn't realize how corrosive sea air is.

They pave our roads with salt in the winter and we don't see things like that on a car that isn't prone to rusting.
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#6 survolvo

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 03:53 AM

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It wasn't all that bad when we got it. It was about the size of a nickel, and barley any paint gone. Now its spread to about the size of 3 quarters or so, and flaking and bubbling. But we live like 50ft above the ocean and constantly getting misted by the salt water misting from waves. I wash and wax every week, clay every other week. Not much more to do. I am pretty vigilant about chips in the paint to.

After looking at it more, and talking with a few people I think I'm better off just taking it to the shop. I'm going to have them do the body work, than do the paint myself. Might be a good time to just do the whole roof as there are some blemishes appearing as well. I blame the salt air for those too.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#7 JagsT5R

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 05:25 AM

Good call. Didn't look that bad from the first pics. That looks like it's going to need some metal work.

#8 erikv11

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 06:29 AM

When you get the window installed, be sure to get the trim piece that is missing, it will help protect that edge in the future.

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#9 survolvo

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 06:54 AM

Yea thats a good call. Just found where to get it.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#10 optimus prime

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 12:15 PM

On closer inspection thats a fucking mess dude, get that to a shop and make sure they test for leaks after they finish the repair too!

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#11 nvr70

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 12:36 PM

Had the same thing on my 850 turbo. Sanded it down to the bare metal, filled it primed it and painted it. Still came back. There was a definite leak and it probably came from the sunroof. Clean out your drainage holes too. And good luck.
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#12 survolvo

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 05:00 PM

When we first got the car, I had to take a pressure washer to all the drain ports. I don't think anyone cleaned them in the life of the car.

I was wondering what could have caused it. But there isn't any evidence inside of leakage around the sunroof.

I'm thinking the best bet is probably going to be welding in new pieces.

Its crazy how fast it grew, so I'm gonna make sure its done right, so I won't have to worry about it coming back. The tiniest bit of rust left over, and all your efforts are futile.



On closer inspection thats a fucking mess dude, get that to a shop and make sure they test for leaks after they finish the repair too!


No kidding huh? Of course I'm going to have them test for leaks. Thats my biggest concern. I've had old leaky Toyotas that were so bad, I called the floorboards my aquariums.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#13 JRL

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 06:40 PM

You are screwed
When you remove the glass you'll be able to poke a hole right through that with very little effort
You need a body shop (a GOOD body shop) try to repair that so it will "hold" for 2-3 years but in reality the forward portion of the roof is history!
Rust is a cancer, it continues to spread. Unless you cut out portions of the roof and weld in some new sheet metal, it WILL come back at some point

Why would you buy a car in the first place with rust on the roof, when in reality these cars do not rust?

#14 survolvo

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 06:59 PM

You are screwed
When you remove the glass you'll be able to poke a hole right through that with very little effort
You need a body shop (a GOOD body shop) try to repair that so it will "hold" for 2-3 years but in reality the forward portion of the roof is history!
Rust is a cancer, it continues to spread. Unless you cut out portions of the roof and weld in some new sheet metal, it WILL come back at some point

Why would you buy a car in the first place with rust on the roof, when in reality these cars do not rust?


Did you read any of my posts? I mentioned welding in new pieces, and the fact the if it's not done right, the rust will come back... But thanks for the "advice"

Like I said the rust was very small when I bought the car. Everything else was in pretty good shape, and it was in the price range I could afford.

EVERYTHING rusts when you live 50ft about the crashing waves of the pacific ocean. This car spent all 16 years of it life right next to the ocean and fog. If I leave my tools out overnight they began to rust.

I know everyone says these cars are not prone to rusting, but pretty much every Volvo I've seen here on the coast has some kind of rust, even if its just a chip in the paint.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#15 Timbo Slice

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 07:08 PM

Did you read any of my posts?


He usually doesn't.

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#16 Rsterns

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 07:36 PM

I suspect it's going to be a bigger job once the window is removed. Keep in mind rust goes from the inside out. They may need to reconstruct the entire top channel to assure you don't have any leaks. Good luck, and I hope you have a good body shop in mind for the work.
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#17 optimus prime

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 09:31 PM

See if you can cut the roof off a car at the salvage yard if the rust is really bad.

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#18 MattyXXL

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Posted 12 July 2012 - 09:42 PM

For now get some navel jelly.. that will stop the rust from growing..
Disregard my last statement, I looked at your close up... It might eat a hole through the cracked part

Edited by MattyXXL, 12 July 2012 - 09:53 PM.

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#19 survolvo

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 07:30 PM

My indy has a really good body guy. He helped him build this. http://i1132.photobu...447153152_o.jpg


He hasn't seen it yet, but we have talked a bit and he is interested in doing some trade (lodging), so it won't cost AS much.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

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#20 survolvo

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Posted 16 July 2012 - 05:05 PM

Talked to the PO and found out how the rust got there. Her BF was a surfer and he use to always put his surfboard on the roof.

Now that I think about it, it is a common sight around these parts with the surfers cars. The windshield from the surfboards, and around the mirrors from hanging wetsuits on them.

1996 854 T5

M56h w/ R Clutch, NA Intake Mani, Snabb Phenolic Intake Spacer, NA Throttle Body w/ 960 Plate, Snabb Intake Pipe, Custom CAI, NA Cams, S60R Exhaust Mani, 16t w/ Whites, iPd TCV, ARD Lightwieght Crank Pulley, +99 Oil Pan/Cooler, Kingsborne 8mm Spark Plug Wires, 302mm Front Brakes, Volvo Strut Tower Brace, Konis, IPD springs, few more things to come...

83f5fec1-4746-4358-b1fc-fa5bf1f63162_zps

 





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