25 replies to this topic

[BlackT5]

I picked up this 98 XC a couple weeks ago for cheap. Plans are to repair and sell instead of part out like i've done with the last 3 (94 850T, 98 XC & 98 S70 T5). Car came with full service history, had a few minor accidents, 284k kms (176k miles), 150k kms (93K miles) on the motor, new goodyear tires last year, timing belt/water pump all done last year also.

Issues with the car: Previous owner said the car was stalling and hard to start. Passenger side windows did not work, busted fog light, torn drivers seat, ABS/TRACS light, fuel gauge not working, several minor dents and the car was dirty dirty.

CEL for the following:

P0300 multiple misfires
P0440 EVAP
P0455 EVAP
P0305 CYL 5 misfire
P0304 CYL 4 misfire
P0116 ECT sensor
P0103 MAF
P0243 WG solenoid A

I swapped the MAF, ECT & cleared the codes and so far so good. Vac lines, vac tree, IC piping all look good. I'm still waiting to see if the EVAP comes back and if so, i'll look more into it. The EVAP lines i have looked at so far look to be in tact.

ABS/TRACS will be fixed once Matty's unit shows up. I swapped out both passenger window switches and the windows now work again. Swapped the fog light, driver door seal, rear license plate holder, pulled and scrubbed all the carpets, vaccumed and wiped down the interior, cleaned the engine compartment, swapped in drivers seat and power passenger seat from my S70 parts car, pulled and scrubbed all the wheels, fixed the finder liner and threw some cross bars on the roof.

A few pics.. still needs a wash.









The only really outstanding issue is the bloody fuel gauge. I couldn't find anything in the paperwork that showed the fuel pump ever being done. If I do end up tackling this, I'm not going to drop the entire rear end, it will be either cutting the access panel or trying to lower/pry the tank and snake it out.

Does anyone have good photos of the fuel pump assembly showing the fuel sending unit? I'm a little confused as to how the system works/goes together. Looking on FCP, you have to select "V70 and XC70" in order to get 1998 to appear. In doing so, you are given the following: http://www.fcpgroton...1464/by_year/48

It doesn't specifically list a 98 XC?

Volvo V70 AWD Turbo 1998-1999 B5254T
Volvo V70 X/C AWD Turbo 1999 B5254T
Volvo V70 X/C AWD Turbo 2000 B5244T
Volvo V70 R AWD Turbo 1999 B5234T8
Volvo V70 R AWD Turbo 2000 B5234T3

It's showing the fuel pump assembly and fuel sending unit as seperate parts, I was under the impression the fuel sending unit is part of the fuel pump assembly? I suppose it doesn't make sense to replace just the sending unit, although I would prefer to keep the cost down as much as possible.

Thoughts?

[gmsgltr]

Love the color honestly. Just wish you could get charcoal with that interior instead

I am grabbing a rear bumper for my 855R here in a few days from a donor car in that color...

[NEU]

Love the color honestly. Just wish you could get charcoal with that interior instead

It's my fav XC color too, and you can find them in charcoal interior in that color... They are out there....

[Deimos]

What paint code is that? It's gorgeous.

[Keaton85]

Code: poop

[Big Will]

If you're going to sell the car don't cut an access panel in the metal to do the fuel pump. If I bought a car and then found out someone had cut an access panel instead of doing it the right way I would be really angry/upset.

[sjmcarz]

The color is Sandstone, not sure of the code at the moment.

[Volvo5.0]

The only really outstanding issue is the bloody fuel gauge. I couldn't find anything in the paperwork that showed the fuel pump ever being done. If I do end up tackling this, I'm not going to drop the entire rear end, it will be either cutting the access panel or trying to lower/pry the tank and snake it out.

Does anyone have good photos of the fuel pump assembly showing the fuel sending unit? I'm a little confused as to how the system works/goes together. Looking on FCP, you have to select "V70 and XC70" in order to get 1998 to appear. In doing so, you are given the following: http://www.fcpgroton...1464/by_year/48

You can snake it out, just need to lower the tank on the right side. The pump and level sensor are together..... http://www.fcpgroton...category_id/149

[BlackT5]

You can snake it out, just need to lower the tank on the right side. The pump and level sensor are together..... http://www.fcpgroton...category_id/149

You make it sound so easy.

That pump is unavailable. I was also told to use only Volvo parts for this job.

Edited by BlackT5, 17 July 2012 - 02:17 PM.

[Commander Riker]

Favorite color XC.

[trigtm]

You can snake it out, just need to lower the tank on the right side. The pump and level sensor are together..... http://www.fcpgroton...category_id/149

Not true.

The sender is actually 2 units. Half of the complete unit is on the pump side (passenger) and the other is the sender with the siphon pump unit on the drivers side.

The reason the fuel gage goes out it because the wires going into the unit rot and sever right as they are going into the unit. You can tell very easily if this the case by removing the panel that covers the front of the tank (1ft/sq plastic panel) and looking at the wires (the sending unit is on the front of the tank, closest to the front of the car and on a diagonal. My wires were completly shot and unreapirable.

To correct this, you need to lower the tank on that side. Do so by removing the 4 bolts that hold on the rear control arm at the front (if not the tank cannot move very much) and remove the tank strap on that side. You can now gently pry the tank down (I used a 2x4 as leverage from the top and be careful of the hard lines.

Hardest part is removing the fuel lines from the unit. Do this by using a trim removal tool to get right under the plastic connector and pry up as you simultaniously push the line down. This should cause the connector to slightly retract, allowing removal of the lines. It's a pain so work at it a while.

You can then unscrew the sender (make sure you have very little to no gas in the tank or else you are now pouring it out) using an oil filter wrench. Remove and replace the unit. I recomend cutting and splicing in the wiring as finding the top or the harness without removing the tank is a pain in the ***.

I got a used unit out of a 2000 for my 98. Only difference was 3 wires in which you don't use 1 and it works fine (black is omitted).

When installing, make sure you use a new seal and crank that nut down as much as you can. Any questions, feel free to ask.

This is definitely the easiest way to do it and should only tank an hour, most of the time is fiddling with the fuel lines on the removal. I don't recommend dropping the tank completely as you need to remove the rear subframe or going in with the cutting of the floor method which leaves the floor wear around the seat mounting point and a place for rust to form.

[Volvo5.0]

You're right. Since the XC has a saddle tank, it does have 2 fuel level sensors, so it could be either one. I guess I've never had one with a fuel gauge problem, I've only replaced defective fuel pumps.

That pump is unavailable. I was also told to use only Volvo parts for this job.

Absolutely, not a fun job, so use OE Volvo parts for sure.

[Keaton85]

If it was a southern vehicle with no rust then using a cheap $75 dollar universal will work. Just saying...

Most times it's that one pass side unit that causes the issues. Pretty easy to lower the tank and snake it out.

[gmsgltr]

Code: poop

LOL

its an interesting color, but I love it

just noticed the weird tow hitch too LOL

[Keaton85]

I've had two identical ones.. At the same time. So I can't say much.

Still have a hood, doors and a back hatch in this color since they are not that common.

[BlackT5]

Not true.

The sender is actually 2 units. Half of the complete unit is on the pump side (passenger) and the other is the sender with the siphon pump unit on the drivers side.

The reason the fuel gage goes out it because the wires going into the unit rot and sever right as they are going into the unit. You can tell very easily if this the case by removing the panel that covers the front of the tank (1ft/sq plastic panel) and looking at the wires (the sending unit is on the front of the tank, closest to the front of the car and on a diagonal. My wires were completly shot and unreapirable.

To correct this, you need to lower the tank on that side. Do so by removing the 4 bolts that hold on the rear control arm at the front (if not the tank cannot move very much) and remove the tank strap on that side. You can now gently pry the tank down (I used a 2x4 as leverage from the top and be careful of the hard lines.

Hardest part is removing the fuel lines from the unit. Do this by using a trim removal tool to get right under the plastic connector and pry up as you simultaniously push the line down. This should cause the connector to slightly retract, allowing removal of the lines. It's a pain so work at it a while.

You can then unscrew the sender (make sure you have very little to no gas in the tank or else you are now pouring it out) using an oil filter wrench. Remove and replace the unit. I recomend cutting and splicing in the wiring as finding the top or the harness without removing the tank is a pain in the ***.

I got a used unit out of a 2000 for my 98. Only difference was 3 wires in which you don't use 1 and it works fine (black is omitted).

When installing, make sure you use a new seal and crank that nut down as much as you can. Any questions, feel free to ask.

This is definitely the easiest way to do it and should only tank an hour, most of the time is fiddling with the fuel lines on the removal. I don't recommend dropping the tank completely as you need to remove the rear subframe or going in with the cutting of the floor method which leaves the floor wear around the seat mounting point and a place for rust to form.

Thank you for the detailed post!

So you are suggesting that it is possibly the wiring on the drivers side and to try replacing the sender/siphon pump unit on that side? Do you have any photos?

[NEU]

this color since they are not that common.

While not as abundant as white, silver, black or green it is fairly common XC color. I see at least one per week for sale on CL in my area... IPD made there first XC-R out of one in this color.

[trigtm]

No photos and I hate stopping mid way through the work and getting crap all over my camera/phone but it's pretty self explanitory once you get in there and refer to what I described. My write-up was for replacing the unit, yes. You can't replace parts of it without risking damaging the unit.

Side note that if the sender won't go about half, that's usually the fault of the pump side failure.

As soon as I took the lower panel off the car to view the sending unit, I could see the wires were broken. They were severed right as they enter the unit which was impossible to repair. Drop the tank a bit, remove fuel lines, cut the wiring but mark which was which and splice back in the new wiring. Once you connect the new wiring, you can turn the car on to verify the sender works but looking at your fuel gage as you move the float higher/lower.

[BlackT5]

I've decided not to mess with the sending unit and just sell it as is with the gas gauge not working.

I got the ABS module from Matty yesterday and that cured the ABS/TRACS light.

The one thing that keeps coming back is the p0455 EVAP leak code. I swapped out the purge valve and it still came on, although i'm not 100% sure the purge valve i used was any good. I inspected all the lines right back to the tank and all looks good. The canister is in the fender and all the lines looked to be intact.

A few questions..

My car (98 S70 T5M) )came with what looks to be the newer style purge valve. It had no filter and two check valves. Was 98 the split year for the different type of purge valve? Could I use this on the XC?

I can't remember where the line on the right goes, the left obviously goes to the intake manifold.


Then there is this thing just off the canister in the fender.. Could this be shot? I figure anything with an electrical connector is suspect.


I just want this code gone!

[BlackT5]

I swapped the entire canister, tube to the purge valve and big hose/vent pictured above for one from one of my parts cars and it seemd to have fixed the EVAP code.

There is some vibration when turning, and there appears to be some play in the center support bearing for the driveshaft. I have a spare driveshaft that I will be swapping in when I get chance, then the car will be going up for sale.