Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

lpt2001

Auto Transmission Adaptation How To

6 posts in this topic

So my transmission has had some shift flare lately, not nearly to the extent as when I got the car but it shows up now and then. I've flushed twice, once with seafoam, and the fluid looks fine. I also replaced the B4 Servo Cover, and the first 10 minutes with that it was the smoothest shifting car I've ever felt. So now I'd like to try reseting it for an adaptation, but I really don't want to bring it into the stealership. Is there any way to do this without the vida/dice stuff? If not, what else could I do with vida that would make it worth getting to use more than once. Thanks

-1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had my car for over a year, and just finally realized how much an automatic transmission adaptation helps.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Subject:- Adaptation procedure

Model & year:- 2001 S60, V70, V70 XC

Description: This transmission relies on adaptive data to properly adjust the shift pressure. If the adaptation is not complete, it may result in one or more of the following:

• Harsh flare. Engine RPM will increase during a shift. This symptom feel like the transmission has lost drive. It usually happens during the 2-3 shift.
• Harsh down shift. Bumpy down shift when the gas pedal is odd (Zero).
• Harsh Garage shift. Sever bump when engaging forward or reverse from park or neutral.
• Harsh engagement control. After coming to a complete stop in drive, with the foot on the brake, the TCM waits for 2 seconds and then disengages drive to reduce emissions. This disengagement is not usually felt by the driver. If adaptation is not complete, then a “thud” will be felt. A harsh re-engagement will also be felt.

Service. The TCM can sometimes take many miles to fully adapt. If you do not have access to the factory tester or Volvo VADIS, then you might try the following.

1. Drive the car forward in the “D” range at about 5 mph (8kph) and bring to a gentle stop. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times.
2. With the engine at idle and your foot on the brake, shift from “N” to “D”. Wait for about 30 seconds. Release the brake. Repeat this procedure for 10 cycles.

If the above does not cure the fault, you will need to get access to a factory tester to reset the adaptation. Remember though that the TCM is constantly updating so not every shift will be the same."

Not sure if that will work on your car, but I say give it a try!

Really if you want the adaptation reset you have to go to a Volvo tech or the dealership.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The test is correct but you need to clear the adaptionsfirst for that drive cycle to reset them

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was under the impression that the transmission is always adapting.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was under the impression that the transmission is always adapting.

It should be, but sometimes it needs to be told to forget something.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Similar Content

    • By br-549
      Hello,
      I have a line on a V70 XC in clean shape that needs a tranny.   I have read all over the place about the issues with that vintage.   I also have a line on a 2004 FWD from an S60.   Can I use a FWD trans by bolting on the AWD parts and make it an AWD trans?   Can I convert a 2001 XC to FWD if I install the 2004 FWD trans?   Is the 2004 trans compatible with the 2001?   I have the computer for the 2004.   What else will I need?  I thought I had seen pictures a while back but cannot find the threads.  I do not want to take on the project unless there is some hope it can work.
      Thanks,
      B-
      '03 S60, 175K miles
    • By Rodrigo molina
      Alright so my moms been driving this Volvo and I don't know when was the last time she got her transmission fluids changed, the check engine light came on and the panel says transmission service required, and now I have a slipping transmission, I checked the fluid and it's really dark, I was wondering if anyone knew how much fluid does the transmission hold? It's a 2004 s60 2.5t, with a AW55-50. I'm 16 and it's my first car and I love this thing, I just want to fix this ASAP, thanks for your help 
    • By smithbd
      Hello everyone!
      I was hoping someone could shed some light on my new-to-me s40! Please answer whatever you can answer! (other handy advice is cool too!)
      Here is the Background: 
      We just replaced a totaled 04 s80 with an 05 s40 T5 FWD with 110K. Regularly maintained. Timing belt and water pump replaced before we bought it. I live in the Seattle area for reference on the estimate prices below.
      Had the pre-purchase inspection done and the rundown with cost estimate is as follows: 
      Both front axles are worn/leaking: $650 
      Both front shocks leaking: $700
      Transmission oil "dirty": $350 (can't seem to fish the dipstick out). 
      I was told these would need to be addressed within the year. 
      Less important: 
      The washer reservoir cap was also missing (if anyone has an extra, hmu please <3)
      The front passenger fender liner is missing (any ideas on how to snag one of these)
      We also had a check engine light come on (right as we were leaving the mechanic) with the code:
      ECM-611B: "Camshaft control, intake. Faulty diagnostic trouble code (DTC) Information."
      We were told it was either the camshaft solenoid/timing valve or it was the cam gear or cam timing. They quoted us at 275 each for the solenoids and 875 for the timing gear if it was that. 
      The Dealer replaced the solenoid (for 90 bucks (on him) and I haven't had it come on once since (Drove it in parking lot traffic, rolling traffic, and across washington state (two passes and over the plateau (definitely over the speed limit :P).
      Camshaft shouldn't have any oil build-up issues because the head was replaced and they resurfaced. Can't have cruddy oil in there to do that. Plus the number of oil changes the car has had is impressive (a lot). 
      My questions are: 
      Did this mechanic way over quote me? 350 for an oil flush is about 100 over, and is not recommended by volvo either. It set my "rip-off" alarm right off.
      Between myself and my immediate family, we almost make a full mechanic: How doable are these repairs/oil changes/atf changes? I can drive a few hours for access to a car lift. 
      How worried should I be about the camshaft and associated mechanics? 
      As far as the transmission oil goes, I don't have a shrink ray available to get my hand in there and snag the dipstick to see how "dirty" it is on a white rag, but the transmission doesn't seem to slip or anything. It did seem to "hesitate" from 0, but I've heard that's normal with the turbo. I'm not sure "hesitate" is even the right phrase, because it still accelerates without slamming into gear (no throttle body worries). No weird downshifts etc. I know the TCM adapts to your driving after 500 or 1k miles. 
      Again any advice/answers/insights any of you have, I would greatly appreciate! I consider this a learning opportunity, so don't dumb it down too much! Being able to work on my car is important to me. 
      Thank you all for your time!

       
    • By Snowy419
      So i recently purchased a 1992 Volvo 960, RWD, 32 valve I6, some info/issues about the car:
      - 164,000 kms
      - Very good condition with virtually no rust, absolutely no rot.
      - The Nivomat rear shocks are shot the the rear end sags ($1000 CANADIN to replace).
      - Parking break is broken.
       But, the main issue is the transmission. I get the flashing arrow and the flashing WSE switch 
      and error code 2-3-2 for the transmission. its very sparatic(seems to only happen once the car is warmed up) but the 
      transmission will slip so bad it seems to "let go" of the gear and shift itself into neutral(slipping?). Also the car 
      has a horrible time shifting and i usually need to put it into L then 3 then D to get it to get up to speed.
       I replaced the rear ABS/Speed sensor that is located in the rear Differential ($350 and, as per error code) which made
      the car seem perfectly fixed for about two days but then when driving in heavy snow on slippery roads the issue is back in
      full force.
      Does anybody have an idea of whats going on?
      Thanks.



    • By mrpriceisright
      Have an 05 v70 fwd non turbo 2.4L with S6 (cal emissions) engine.   The transmission is having  the typical problems of very hard or downshift slipping upshift 3->2 and 2->1  when warm,  most noticeably on slowing down.  It seems this may be fixable with a valve body, but I was planning on putting in a used transmission .

      My question is about the vin 64 / b5244s6 cal emissions transmission  vs the S / vin 61 transmission.
      when I look up the part online,  I can find transmissions for both the S and S6 (vin64) versions of the engine.  As I understand it the cal emissions version of the engine has VVT.   
      My question is why the transmission would be different in the S6 variant and whether the vin 61 transmission would be compatible?
      I am having a hard time understanding why the ASIN 55-50 transmission would be different in the two variants, since I would expect the engine performance should be about the same ? 
      Does anyone have direct experience or can shed some light on this.    I've read lots of posts here about transmission issues,  but didnt see this mentioned.