6 posts in this topic
I was hoping someone could shed some light on my new-to-me s40! Please answer whatever you can answer! (other handy advice is cool too!)
Here is the Background:
We just replaced a totaled 04 s80 with an 05 s40 T5 FWD with 110K. Regularly maintained. Timing belt and water pump replaced before we bought it. I live in the Seattle area for reference on the estimate prices below.
Had the pre-purchase inspection done and the rundown with cost estimate is as follows:
Both front axles are worn/leaking: $650
Both front shocks leaking: $700
Transmission oil "dirty": $350 (can't seem to fish the dipstick out).
I was told these would need to be addressed within the year.
The washer reservoir cap was also missing (if anyone has an extra, hmu please <3)
The front passenger fender liner is missing (any ideas on how to snag one of these)
We also had a check engine light come on (right as we were leaving the mechanic) with the code:
ECM-611B: "Camshaft control, intake. Faulty diagnostic trouble code (DTC) Information."
We were told it was either the camshaft solenoid/timing valve or it was the cam gear or cam timing. They quoted us at 275 each for the solenoids and 875 for the timing gear if it was that.
The Dealer replaced the solenoid (for 90 bucks (on him) and I haven't had it come on once since (Drove it in parking lot traffic, rolling traffic, and across washington state (two passes and over the plateau (definitely over the speed limit :P).
Camshaft shouldn't have any oil build-up issues because the head was replaced and they resurfaced. Can't have cruddy oil in there to do that. Plus the number of oil changes the car has had is impressive (a lot).
My questions are:
Did this mechanic way over quote me? 350 for an oil flush is about 100 over, and is not recommended by volvo either. It set my "rip-off" alarm right off.
Between myself and my immediate family, we almost make a full mechanic: How doable are these repairs/oil changes/atf changes? I can drive a few hours for access to a car lift.
How worried should I be about the camshaft and associated mechanics?
As far as the transmission oil goes, I don't have a shrink ray available to get my hand in there and snag the dipstick to see how "dirty" it is on a white rag, but the transmission doesn't seem to slip or anything. It did seem to "hesitate" from 0, but I've heard that's normal with the turbo. I'm not sure "hesitate" is even the right phrase, because it still accelerates without slamming into gear (no throttle body worries). No weird downshifts etc. I know the TCM adapts to your driving after 500 or 1k miles.
Again any advice/answers/insights any of you have, I would greatly appreciate! I consider this a learning opportunity, so don't dumb it down too much! Being able to work on my car is important to me.
Thank you all for your time!
So i recently purchased a 1992 Volvo 960, RWD, 32 valve I6, some info/issues about the car:
- 164,000 kms
- Very good condition with virtually no rust, absolutely no rot.
- The Nivomat rear shocks are shot the the rear end sags ($1000 CANADIN to replace).
- Parking break is broken.
But, the main issue is the transmission. I get the flashing arrow and the flashing WSE switch
and error code 2-3-2 for the transmission. its very sparatic(seems to only happen once the car is warmed up) but the
transmission will slip so bad it seems to "let go" of the gear and shift itself into neutral(slipping?). Also the car
has a horrible time shifting and i usually need to put it into L then 3 then D to get it to get up to speed.
I replaced the rear ABS/Speed sensor that is located in the rear Differential ($350 and, as per error code) which made
the car seem perfectly fixed for about two days but then when driving in heavy snow on slippery roads the issue is back in
Does anybody have an idea of whats going on?
Have an 05 v70 fwd non turbo 2.4L with S6 (cal emissions) engine. The transmission is having the typical problems of very hard or downshift slipping upshift 3->2 and 2->1 when warm, most noticeably on slowing down. It seems this may be fixable with a valve body, but I was planning on putting in a used transmission .
My question is about the vin 64 / b5244s6 cal emissions transmission vs the S / vin 61 transmission.
when I look up the part online, I can find transmissions for both the S and S6 (vin64) versions of the engine. As I understand it the cal emissions version of the engine has VVT.
My question is why the transmission would be different in the S6 variant and whether the vin 61 transmission would be compatible?
I am having a hard time understanding why the ASIN 55-50 transmission would be different in the two variants, since I would expect the engine performance should be about the same ?
Does anyone have direct experience or can shed some light on this. I've read lots of posts here about transmission issues, but didnt see this mentioned.
I'm in the middle of having a shop replace my clutch with a SPEC stage 2 (part # SO132) for a 1998 pre VIN break single mass flywheel car. While they are at it I asked them to re-install a more fresh M56 from a 98 S70 internal slave car instead of my old transmission which has a bad 2nd gear. Basically they are converting my factory single mass flywheel external slave car to an internal slave car. They just called today and said it's all back together but the car won't go into gear. Frick.
They said they bled the line twice and it looks fine and that the clutch pedal feels fine as well. They think I ordered the wrong parts because they say since the transmission is from a post VIN break car it needs a post VIN break clutch and pressure plate. I tried to convinced them that what matters is the clutch and pressure plate need to match the corresponding flywheel style and that the transmission itself doesn't matter. I told them plenty of people have swapped their dual mass flywheels to singles still using the internal slave.
Last week I gave them the newer transmission with a new internal slave/ throw out bearing installed and a new clutch line for the internal slave cars. I kept the same clutch master cylinder installed since I couldn't find evidence that it needed to be changed for the internal slave swap. Many people with factory dual mass flywheels and internal slaves have successfully swapped to single mass flywheels and a corresponding SMF clutch. But, as far as I know, the only thing different between my car and one of those newer swapped cars at this point is the clutch master cylinder. There are 2 part numbers for them based on the VIN breaks and they look slightly different. My theory is that the older style clutch master isn't supplying enough pressure or displacing enough fluid to move the throw out bearing into the pressure plate fingers, thus keeping it from going into gear. I'm thinking if I have them swap on the newer style clutch master I might be OK. How does that theory sound?
After I installed the Quaife and resealed the case, I turned the input shaft and shifted through all the gears. Everything felt fine. If it's not going into gear it's gotta be something with the slave/ throw out not traveling enough, right? What else could keep it from getting into gear? Could anything be going on with the shift cables maybe? I'm going to stop by the shop first thing in the morning and see if I can see what the TOB is doing by peeling back the dust cover where the clutch line goes into the transmission case. Depending on what I can see with the TOB, I might try shifting with the levers on top of the transmission to see if it will go in gear. Let me know what ideas you have!
See different clutch master cylinders here: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/43753/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-KG19004704/
So.... I was driving today... car drove perfectly, I emphasize perfectly. Went into gear nice, engaged perfectly... engine runs perfect etc etc, a normal running 1997 Volvo 850 AWD 5-spd (M58)
Was at a red light and it went green. I didn't quite peel out and boost the hell out of the guy next to me... but I did a harder than normal launch/acceleration. Clutch pedal in, put it in first.... start transitioning out on the clutch pedal and start moving. Get halfway through the intersection and something POPS and the engine is reving high now.... and I'm rolling. It's as IF I'm in neutral, but the car is in 1st gear with the clutch pedal ALL the way out. Thoughts??
I rolled to a stop on the side of the road safely (thankfully)..... I put it in first gear, let up the clutch pedal..... engine revs as if I'm in neutral. All gears are the same (1-5 and R). When I put it in first gear and let up on the clutch pedal, it sounds like marbles/gravel in the transmission. When its not in gear (as per the shift lever) there are no sounds. The shift linkage cables are on and tight and they move the gears on the transmission.
On a downhill, putting it in Reverse and letting up on the clutch pedal.... the car rolls forward as if its in neutral. Seems the transmission is stuck with clutch disengaged from flywheel.....
I recently rebuilt this car..... new R clutch...... new pressure plate..... machined flywheel.... (you're all going to flame me now) reused the throwout bearing. I see alot of guys talking about the TOB failing. Do you think that my TOB failed, causing the springs on the pressure plate to not be able to retract thus permanently dis-engaging the clutch? I hope to God the transmission is fine...... its an M58 and probably near impossible to find from a 1997 AWD 5spd model
Thoughts, Suggestions, ANYTHING please! Another thing to mention, when the tow truck driver lifted the car and put it on an angle...... fluid was leaking out in a steady stream. I just recently put some Redline in it... it did not look to be leaking from the fill/drain plugs..... and it was pretty dark for 2-3 weeks old I hope she's okay ....Where would YOU start??