Tightmopedman9

Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

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So I did some more research on the MAF stuffs...

RE the Audi S4 V8 MAF... It's pretty much the same MAF as the BMW 540i, with a different connector. Both are Bosch 028021780x parts. Tops out around 1000kg/h, just slightly more than the 960 MAF, and IMHO, might as well just go with the 960 MAF. The later S4's utilizing the 2.7T with a hitachi MAF appear to be the ticket, though. Seems the Audi tuners actually prefer to convert the older Bosch-MAF equipped cars to the Hitachi MAF. More info: http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Mass_air_flow, http://awe-tuning.com/media/pdf/RSK04_27T_fueling_UPDATE_2.0.pdf -- AWE tuning claims the Hitachi sensor is less failure prone, and less susceptible to drivability issues. The wiki page has the pinouts, and I was able to extract the MAF curve directly from ME7 firmware for an Allroad Quattro which uses the Hitachi MAF. Spreadsheet with numbers and curves from the 850, 960 and 2.7T MAFs here. Some of the Audi tuners are putting the Hitachi MAF in an even larger housing (larger than the 73mm housing it comes stock in), but I suspect the 1200kg/h it flows will be quite sufficient for the vast majority of us. From an 850 perspective, the numbers work out quite nice.. This MAF has a top flow of about 50% over the 850 MAF, and the green -968 injectors flow about 45% more than the stock orange injectors -- Seems like a good pairing to me. If we accept the stock setup is good for 250bhp or so, 45% on top of that is 362bhp, which should be sufficient for the goals of most folks spare those who are doing full motor builds. If indeed it's also the case load milliseconds are directly related to injection time, scaling up the injectors ~45% should cure any worry of running over 12.24ms load with a ~50% larger MAF.

Personally, I'm thinking of the 960 MAF. It isn't as much of an upgrade as the 2.7T MAF, but should be sufficient for my goals without being overkill, and being 3", should allow me to open up the intake side a bit.

Ahhh that is a great point! Bigger injectors mean less injection time since they flow more! So like you said, that will cure any worry of exceeding max load! You just have to match up your MAF and injectors properly!

After doing some math, the 2.7T maf will flow up to 44lb/min which should support about 440bhp!

Wow thats a lot!

Did some digging in the Audi S4 8D0907551M bin with uses the Hitachi and found the same table you have in the excel sheet at 0x14254.

Good work on that. Cool thing now, is if we want to stick the hitatchi MAF in a larger housing, we can easily do so because people in the audi world do it all the time and have ways of scaling linearization of maf voltage.

Looks like you read 2 bytes, then skip 2 bytes 256 times to get the table.

Some more info on scaling the Hitachi housing.

Bascially first you want to fine the cross section of each of the housings... so pi*radius^2.

Lets say i have the stock housing (73mm). So i wanna do pi*((73/2)^2) = 4185.38mm^2

Now lets say i am upgrading to the 034 motorsports maf housing which is 85mm... pi*((73/2)^2) = 5674.50mm^2

Now i find the ratio of the new to the old 5674.50 / 4185.38 = 1.36.

This mean i would want to scale all of the kh/hr values by a value of 1.36.

So 1202.1 would become 1634.85kg/hr

That info is from here http://www.eurodyne.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=689 and seems logical to me.

We may be able to use this to scale our stock maf (with a larger housing) curve which would avoid us having to move the maps around, of course we would loose some resolution though at the lower flow levels.

Edited by Simply Volvo

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I have been working on getting the Turbo to perform better with stock BCV. So I tried a MBC, a $7 air bleed off valve from the hardware store, bleeding air from the BCV to the wastegate. I was looking for a extra 2lbs of boost. What a difference, the car just snapped. Boost was controlled below 3k, but needs to be reduced a little more, and above that the boost was very stable, right at 14psi. Not sure if the M4.3 will see what is going on and start pulling things, but I will find out. I also tried just the MBC alone and that was very uncontrollable, you either had vacuum or full boost and can see how that can bend a rod. It seems to be a second quicker compared to just the tune. I realize that it was only 76mph.

I also increased the WOT enrichment by .01 to help with any extra fuel that it would need.

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If I was doing this commercially I'd raid a junkyard car for the ECU box and volvo harness, and have myself a little drop-in flashing station, but no plans on such adventures.

Something like this maybe?

photobucket-5595-1363718434855_zps2b29cf

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Something like this maybe?

photobucket-5595-1363718434855_zps2b29cf

Sweet! That does give me some ideas! :D

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Mercuric: a few questions

1. My ECU is a '607, software # 9155876, which = 0261204607_0 1037357780, not the '868 that you all started with. I still can't find any code differences, any thoughts?

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Mercuric: a few questions

1. My ECU is a '607, software # 9155876, which = 0261204607_0 1037357780, not the '868 that you all started with. I still can't find any code differences, any thoughts?

Sorry, editing issues.

2. Mine has no Immob ( at least Vol-FCR wont connect to it. Was Immob deleted from the 868 file?

3. I have a ECM coming (to keep mine original), is there a .ADX file to communicate with stock ECU, without your logging code in it? I was able to get Motronic to give me real time data while driving, but was unable to save it. I noticed my Duty cycle for the Boost Solenoid was stuck at 30, which accounts for the lack of performance lately. There are no codes in the system, just cleaned my Baro sensor and cleared codes. The CEL is still off, but its driving like it's still in limp home mode.

Rod

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3. See plugin on previous page to allow stock Motronic communication. .adx must be edited in TP RT to show the values you want.

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1) See: https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=item.getItem&item=SB28-0003-0299 -- It appears there was an update to M4.4 to "smoothen the occasional variation in engine speed which may be experienced on some vehicles." -- I suspect the later software revision contains the update, but am not sure on that -- I've never really looked at it in detail. The maps and tuning-relevant stuff looked similar.

2) If you don't have a 3rd box in the ECU container under the hood, you have no immo. I believe immo cars had a different bosch part numbered engine ECU, as well, but I could be wrong on that.

I've been meaning to check out that RT TP plugin, rkam.. been busy lately!

Have done some work on this project though, I did figure out why RAM_20.2 "KLOPJN" (knock yes/no) only got set a few rare times during ignition retard events -- Turns out this bit was intended for use by a cylinder-synchronous output function of VS20 (volvo diagnostics), and there is code to clear the bit if the diagnostic function is not active. That code appears to be fired on a fast interrupt (an interrupt for ignition output that works off the crankshaft position sender), so the few times I logged KLOPJN being set would have been by pure luck of timing. I found the code that clears the bit, and modified it to set the bit in another address that wouldn't get tampered with, and then added a little code to my logging routine to log and clear the new bit location.. and then in my logs, I see the bit getting set each time a timing retard event occurs. Since knock retard is cylinder specific, and has a number of ignitions period to recovery (getting back to map timing), being able to see the bit get set helps -- first, it confirms retard due to knock detect, and second it allows one to see if an additional knock event occurred after the retard took effect -- the retard "hangs around" for a number of ignitions (configurable by KRVFN1 "number of firings for one increment advance") and additional knock events within the retard period would indicate a more pervasive preignition problem. Next version of the binary will include this change.

I also noticed that setting 0xC9A3 configbyte for gear-dependent boost control to 0 and 0xC9A5 VSS threshold for boost reduction on gearbox signal to 1 not only did away with the 1st gear boost limit, but also the boost limit in winter mode -- meaning if you're screwing around on the streets and mainly want selection of 1st/2nd gear, but no reduction in boost, set these up and use L(1st)/3(2nd) positions in winter mode. Beware in L, though, that the band locking the front planetary set is engaged, so you will get full engine braking on deceleration in 1st, and I have no idea how sturdy that band is, so... good luck ;) ya might break something. What I find most useful here is being able to lock 2nd and maintain full boost pressure without using "L", which will only give you 2nd above 25mph and may downshift into 1st below 25mph. It also seems to do away with the boost reduction during shift in ECON mode, which I found highly frustrating as sport mode is just too aggressive for my taste (and tires) once you get the boost map set up to not be so.. tepid.

Edited by mercuric

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Good news on my end!

I have been putting today a plugin so i can log data from both my vag com cable and my arduino!

I have had success today!

My vagcom is logging at 125000 baud and my Arduino is logging at 125000 baud and all this data is being fed into tunerpro at once!

This means i have an extra 6 Analog to Digital converter channels!!

I can now feed in my wideband and my boost sensor circuit once i get them up and running! Also Intake air temp if i decide and EGT.

The plugin uses COM1 for the vagcom and COM2 for the Arduino, so they must be set in the control panel.

I will not be releasing the plugin just yet.

Mercuric, since you are using different logging code than me, you will have to update your ADX if you want yours to support this additional feature. Or I just modify it for you and you can release two versions, one that uses the arduino and one that doesnt.

As soon as i get all my components in such as my boost pressure sensor and wideband and boost solenoid driver, i will begin coding.

Edited by Simply Volvo

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Sweet! I'm thinking I'm going to re-purpose the rear O2 sensor channel for the 0-5V wideband analog signal initially, which should be pretty easy to do with a few code hacks, but 6 extra ADC channels sure would be nice.. MAP and EGT would be especially useful.

If you add an IAT sensor, might as well just use M4.4's channel for it, that way you gain whatever M4.4 does with IAT data -- which i haven't fully pined down yet.. I know it at least scales the boost control valve duty cycle, probably other stuff too.

Cheers, dream3r. Looking forward to hearing how your M4.4 wagon goes, and I replied :)

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Sweet! I'm thinking I'm going to re-purpose the rear O2 sensor channel for the 0-5V wideband analog signal initially, which should be pretty easy to do with a few code hacks, but 6 extra ADC channels sure would be nice.. MAP and EGT would be especially useful.

If you add an IAT sensor, might as well just use M4.4's channel for it, that way you gain whatever M4.4 does with IAT data -- which i haven't fully pined down yet.. I know it at least scales the boost control valve duty cycle, probably other stuff too.

Cheers, dream3r. Looking forward to hearing how your M4.4 wagon goes, and I replied :)

We have also the Tank pressure Sensor ADC channel.

So thats AFR BOOST and IAT.

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Good point! M4.4 has got to be the most tuner-friendly OEM fuel system I've seen.. Then again, there's a lot I haven't seen...

I need to get my hands on another M4.4 box to start hardware hacking.. Breaking those ADC channels out onto a connector on top of the box so I don't have to hack up the harness, in-car reflash, etc. I've also been thinking the AC issue might be solvable with a little hardware hack so the harness doesn't need to get modified -- Guessing that's what ARD did. Need to think about that more, No AC or old M4.3 both are no fun..

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I think I'm gonna just hard wire the ac honestly. You only need to run one wire I believe.

Also you should be able to just solder a wire to the ecu connector but on the inside. Not sure if it will be necessary to wire it directly to the CPU.

Edit actually that may not work.

I'm sure the hardware has some built in stuff to prevent shorts and high current, over voltage etc.

Edited by Simply Volvo

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