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Also I checked my math with some real data and the above equation is very accurate. I thinking a clogged fuel filter (215K) is causing not enough volume of fuel to be delivered because I know plenty of people using greens and flowing around same amount of air mass.

I would hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail & check pressure under load. You'll know right away if the pressure is dropping up top.

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Anyone have any logs with green injectors and a 19T (or other turbo)?

Im trying to nail down my fueling issue.

so AFR = Mair / Mfuel

I flow around 260 g/sec at 5000-5500 RPM,

12 = 260 / X

X = 21.6 gfuel

21.6 / .162(mass in grams of fuel per cc) = 133.33 cc/gram / 1000 = 0.133cc/ms

0.133 / .0073cc/ms (for 440cc greens) = 18.26 ms which correlates to ~80% IDC @ 5500RPM.

According to my logs at around 5000RPM is when AFR's go haywire and even with Injection Time at 25 ms(120+ IDC) i can only hold a 13AFR.

Also I checked my math with some real data and the above equation is very accurate. I thinking a clogged fuel filter (215K) is causing not enough volume of fuel to be delivered because I know plenty of people using greens and flowing around same amount of air mass.

Stock fuel pump yet? Didn't find that info your sign.

While we're on the subject of intake tube and maf size I am going to mention something I have never heard mentioned on VS yet.

A turbocharger pulls air into the intake of the compressor housing from around the intake port, not directly in front of it. Picture a tornado, that is what the air going into the turbocharger would look like if you took the intake tube off. Any intake tube on a turbo creates intake air turbulance. If you do a google search you can find some old air research smoke test videos. My point here is that so many here have mentioned using an intake tube off of something else that will hook right up to the maf. In reality we need to use the largest tube we can find to fit to the turbocharger to allow the air to spiral into the turbocharger intake.

What people is discussing here is about how intake pipes and filter (in front of maf and not behind) may affect its readings and not how turbo sucks air.

Of course the bigger the intake pipes the better for the turbo. That allows the turbo to flow more air with less effort, i.e. less pressure (of course there's also a limit, the compressor housing volume capacity is not unlimited). However, this does not exactly determine how maf will behave depending on the hardware that it is in front of it.

Notwithstanding, I understood your point.

Edited by S70-R
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My point here is that so many here have mentioned using an intake tube off of something else that will hook right up to the maf.

Where did you read that? Most people replace the restrictive stock inlet pipe with a larger ID aluminum setup....

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You can try to put a high resistance Potentiometer in parallel with the main power feed and use the voltmeter to adjust the voltage where you need it. Basic variable power supply.

I'm going to need an explanation on that one, lol.

..........

I wouldn't trust that cheap supply

It's likely a poorly filtered half wave (read: noisy)

Some are so cost reduced and under QC'd that they ship with failing filter caps (if it even has one)

Get a proper supply.

Alternators with their rectified three phase are actually quite low ripple in comparison to many "wall warts" under load.

Edited by mattwebb502
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A voltage divider uses two resistor to split the voltage based on the ration of the resistance. If you see the ECM as a certain resistance, you can use another variable resistor(potentiometer) to control how much is actually going into the ECM. Take a 3 leg potentiometer and run the main positive wire into the middle leg and out of one leg. Then run the other leg to ground. When you turn the knob away from the output leg to the ECM, the voltage falls. Always start with the knob somewhat centered to prevent you from burning up the potentiometer.

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Using a high resistance pot as a voltage divider and hoping to somehow supply a meaningful amount of current is a waste of time.

If you have any hopes of making this work you better get a fairly low R high power pot and a can of freeze handy to keep the r1 side nice and cold while it struggles to dissipate all that heat.

Good luck. :)

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When I say "too much" it is too much for the flashing job. I believe (or at least I want to) this ECU is ok, just the bin has been erased/damaged.

On wikia it mentions 13.5v-16.8v as flashing range (i think you were the one who wrote that).

Somehow you had conclude that...

I just use my cordless drill battery. its a 14.4v battery but when fully charged its at about 16v. I've flashed 4-5 times and haven't had a problem yet.

try running the ground all the way to the right to pin 18 on the ecu. I don't like having the power wires so close to the ground.

i was having trouble with the cheaper KKL cables (all Blue) i guess it's a hit or miss thing with those. best to use the vag-com cable listed on the m4.4wiki site.

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EDIT, Didnt read the above properly.

So... Injectors, what difference between injectors too much? Had mine tested and one is +12% and one is -8%

Just wondering, did you notice any rough idling with this discrepancy in injector flow.

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Anyone have any logs with green injectors and a 19T (or other turbo)?

Im trying to nail down my fueling issue.

so AFR = Mair / Mfuel

I flow around 260 g/sec at 5000-5500 RPM,

12 = 260 / X

X = 21.6 gfuel

21.6 / .162(mass in grams of fuel per cc) = 133.33 cc/gram / 1000 = 0.133cc/ms

0.133 / .0073cc/ms (for 440cc greens) = 18.26 ms which correlates to ~80% IDC @ 5500RPM.

According to my logs at around 5000RPM is when AFR's go haywire and even with Injection Time at 25 ms(120+ IDC) i can only hold a 13AFR.

Also I checked my math with some real data and the above equation is very accurate. I thinking a clogged fuel filter (215K) is causing not enough volume of fuel to be delivered because I know plenty of people using greens and flowing around same amount of air mass.

I have greens with a 19T. I can easily reach AFR's as low as 10 at WOT @ 5000 RPM, near 290 WHP (not that i want to). I never get higher then about 80% duty cycle with AFR's round 11.8-12.

So probably your fuel filter could be clogged, as you suggested or your fuel pump comes short or something is wrong with your fuel regulator.

Edited by Piet
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This post is for the people who do want to fit a 3" S90 MAF in "OEM" style. 3" is still enough for a lot above 300bhp without clipping the MAF.

Get an airfilterbox no 9445349. It has an 3"opening and will fit in the car in the same way as the original.

Left the "new"one, right the original.

2014033001.jpg

Get a hose from the airfilterbox to the turbo. No 9445351. This one has a 3" MAF opening. Vida incorrectly states that a 70 classic from 1998 already has this hose. Not true, but whats new. ;) Remove the hose to the TCV. With the new turbo inlet this hose will be connected close to the turbo.

Old and new. Note the different locations of the vacuum connection points.

2014033003.jpg

Fits like it has always have been this way.

2014033005.jpg

-edit- Lookforjoe mentioned that te LMM sensor should look upwards to avoid moisture problems. He is right. In the picture above the LMM has been placed incorrectly "downwards".

After inserting Piet's S90 MAF table in to the MAF tool Simply Volvo made, it was time for a test drive.

De car drove fine. Fuel trims zeroisch. No more clipping MAF with my modest 1Bar and plenty MAF headroom for more power.

Thank you Simply Volvo and Piet for your good work. Made it a piece of cake to integrate the MAF into my new setup.

I was referring to posts like this one. Both of those intake pipes are worthless in my opinion.

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Thanks Huessin, Ill give it a try, im pretty sure dropping FP is my issue.

And yes S-70R I am still on the stock pump


I have greens with a 19T. I can easily reach AFR's as low as 10 at WOT @ 5000 RPM, near 290 WHP (not that i want to). I never get higher then about 80% duty cycle with AFR's round 11.8-12.
So probably your fuel filter could be clogged, as you suggested or your fuel pump comes short or something is wrong with your fuel regulator.

Yeah i knew something wasnt right because I have never heard of anyone maxing out greens on a 19T and even with low boost (~12psi) i had to really increase the VE map to get a AFR near 12, the stock map which should provide around 11.5 afr as long as the MAF isnt maxed was running in the high 12s and low 13s.

Gonna start with the filter, doubt its my pump because plenty of people are using greens on a stock pump and even larger injectors or regulator(did the suction test a while back).

Thanks guys, carry on.

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I had to replace my (old) stock pump with a high flow walbro, because the stock one was coming short though.

Maybe a new stock pump can cope, an older one does'nt always (anymore).

And since the high flow walbro was cheaper then the stock....

EDIT: Ofcourse a new fuelfilter is the simplest thing to begin with, I would too

Edited by Piet
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I was referring to posts like this one. Both of those intake pipes are worthless in my opinion.

That's one person. While I agree, that stock style is less performance oriented some people have to keep stock appearance.

No reason to clutter the thread with quotes of entire posts.

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