Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!


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Thanks for your reply.

I used the venderbroeck adx file (i guess, if it's the rev5.adx) and tried realterm as well. but realterm was sending strange symbols instead of clear letters.

My main problem now is that I can't use obd diagnostics at all, eg. brick diag or VOL FCR. They can't connect to the ECU. My old 4.3 ECU works perfectly though.

Hmm did you set the correct baud rate in realterm? It should be 125000.

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I've been reading the thread for a while now, some awesome work going on!

Now, I've just had my 850 converted to 4.4, which a friend kindly removed the immobilizer, and done the usual 4.4 conversions.

Now, although its got a map on for my GT3071r, I can't log it :(

This is because mine doesn't have an OBD2 socket, its a 1995 with on board diagnotics

I see from the 4.4 wiki you can connect a vag-com cable to the ecu, can I connect an OBD socket the same way, by that I mean soldering under the ecu plug on the car

Thanks for any help

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Pin b36 on the ECU is the k-line connection. You can either solder a wire to the ECU, or to the ECU plug.

I also have the same obd system, and I just wired it under the ECU plug. You also need +12v and ground from somewhere.

The wire I connected to the ECU socket (pin b36) is running inside the cabin on the passenger side. There is a grommet on that side of the engine bay you can use, after punching a hole in it. Inside the car I just use a sigarette lighter plug for +12 and ground.

I soldered the lighter plug, and a short k-line wire to the vag-com cable (on the inside), and use a little connector to connect the short k-line wire coming from the vag com to the wire coming from the ECU socket.

This way I can easely plug it in or remove it whenever I like.

I can make a picture of it if necessary.

Just saw ur from the UK. I'm not sure if said grommet is present in those cars, but I'm sure there are other ways to get the k-line inside the cabin.

Edited by venderbroeck
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I see from the 4.4 wiki you can connect a vag-com cable to the ecu, can I connect an OBD socket the same way, by that I mean soldering under the ecu plug on the car

If you refer to the M4.x wiring diagram (it's been posted many times, should show up if you search it) you can see the pin connections necessary for the OBDII port. With that in hand, and an OBDII socket from a M4.4 97-98,S/V70 (which includes a short harness) you can splice it in wherever you choose. Not sure the engine bay is ideal, but if you're running a USB cable from the ECU box to the pass comp., then it should be fine....

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Just saw ur from the UK. I'm not sure if said grommet is present in those cars, but I'm sure there are other ways to get the k-line inside the cabin.

Im not sure about the 850 but the UK V70 has one at each side. The one on the drivers side has a corrugated tube with a bung on each end, On the bung there are 3 small nipples :blush: , the one on the passenger side is just a bung

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With our bins you can't use OBD diagnostics when the car is not running unless you specifically enable the pre-start OBD diagnostics by sending an "o" in realterm.

Regarding logging, did you configure the acquision settings correctly?

Problem solved:

a) diagnostics works with engine running

B) realterm works now properly with a new cable. The one I had had some issue on the PCB which doesn't look healthy. I consider this one fried.

c) after sending the "l" in realterm logging works fantastically. I am really happy now!

Can I set the bin in a way to enable OBD while engine off? In case I will give it to the dealer to fix something I don't want to do myself to enable them running engine-off diagnostics?

Again, thanks for all the help and hints on this forum. :tup:

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Awesome! I just need to get an OBD2 socket now.

Pin b36 on the ECU is the k-line connection. You can either solder a wire to the ECU, or to the ECU plug.

I also have the same obd system, and I just wired it under the ECU plug. You also need +12v and ground from somewhere.

The wire I connected to the ECU socket (pin b36) is running inside the cabin on the passenger side. There is a grommet on that side of the engine bay you can use, after punching a hole in it. Inside the car I just use a sigarette lighter plug for +12 and ground.

I soldered the lighter plug, and a short k-line wire to the vag-com cable (on the inside), and use a little connector to connect the short k-line wire coming from the vag com to the wire coming from the ECU socket.

This way I can easely plug it in or remove it whenever I like.

I can make a picture of it if necessary.

Just saw ur from the UK. I'm not sure if said grommet is present in those cars, but I'm sure there are other ways to get the k-line inside the cabin.

If you could do a picture, that would be handy

I was looking to see if I could fit the OBD2 socket like the later cars, in the centre console if possible

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If it was actually detecting knock, the value of the "bits" column would be over 128.

I've seen mine do that when decelerating from higher speed

Rod

Ah right, I wondered what the bits column was for. So if its showing knock and the bits is showing less than 128, its not knock?

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Reworked "BITS" item. Bits are:
0: Knock control, adaptive mode enabled
1: Knock control, system enabled
2: Knock control, "reduced step width" (still curious about this one)
3: Fuel cutoff for overcharge protection active
4: Fuel cutoff for decelleration active (cuts fuel when coasting at 0 throttle)
5: WOT detected
6: LMR flag XF_LMR.5 "P_IST bigger maximum value" (indicates overcharge protection disabled due to low intake air temperature)
7: Active knocking in progress -- Will trigger only during the time knocking is actively detected. Since knock detect is cylinder-specific and that cylinder is immediately retarded, you will only see this sporadically, even if knock retard triggers for a single knock. Seeing this bit trigger multiple times within the same acceleration sequence combined with increasing XFALx and XFK_ANR numbers is thus a sign of serious, repeated knock that should be a big warning flag to you.
.. As usual, most of these flagbits are somewhat experimental, used to indicate bits I've been curious about tracking. 3 and 7 are the ones most people probably care about, to know if they've hit the overcharge protection or are knocking excessively. I'll be trying to massage this set of bits into something more relevant to most folks soon.

Bit 7 is for active knocking in progress. So bit 7 = 128. so if the value is over 128, knocking is in progress

You were showing a value of 21, which means bit 4 was set, showing decel fuel cut

Rod

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