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I am running the rev5b p-part bin (607 - auto) and I cannot for the life of me understand how to turn the CEL off.

I have plugged in an OBD2 scanner, but it is telling me there are no faults. It tried resetting using the OBD2 scanner, and disconnecting the battery, but the CEL just stays on.

I understand that the CEL should blink (switch between on and off?) when knock is detected, but mine is on permanently (and has been since I flashed it). I am, however, running 98 fuel and havent pushed my car hard yet (still waiting for my spartan to arrive) and none of my logs so far have detected any knock. Will it just turn off the first time knock is detected, and then off again and so on? I like the idea of the CEL blinking when I have knock, but now my light is on permanently for casual driving.

I have also tried switching between maps (to make sure that didnt have anything to do with it), but that seems to just affect the CEL before start.

Sorry if this has all been said before, I have searched the thread, but it is long :-)

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Bit 7 is for active knocking in progress. So bit 7 = 128. so if the value is over 128, knocking is in progress

You were showing a value of 21, which means bit 4 was set, showing decel fuel cut

Rod

I will have another look when I get home, currently 350 miles from my car and computer.

Cheers

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Converted my ECU to ignition cut (instead of fuel) and implemented a 2 step anti lag launch control.

Building 12 psi (can build up to 20-22 psi) sitting still while making a lot of loud popping sounds :)

Very happy with it.

Ill link up a binary and text file a bit later.

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Hopefully it's not terribly hard on the turbo/valves.

Do you know what the egt's were when you tested it? I was reading on how not enough fuel during the cut will cause egt's to sky rocket. That's really my only concern... Not that I need it on a 15g but it's cool!!!

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I am running the rev5b p-part bin (607 - auto) and I cannot for the life of me understand how to turn the CEL off.

I have plugged in an OBD2 scanner, but it is telling me there are no faults. It tried resetting using the OBD2 scanner, and disconnecting the battery, but the CEL just stays on.

I understand that the CEL should blink (switch between on and off?) when knock is detected, but mine is on permanently (and has been since I flashed it). I am, however, running 98 fuel and havent pushed my car hard yet (still waiting for my spartan to arrive) and none of my logs so far have detected any knock. Will it just turn off the first time knock is detected, and then off again and so on? I like the idea of the CEL blinking when I have knock, but now my light is on permanently for casual driving.

I have also tried switching between maps (to make sure that didnt have anything to do with it), but that seems to just affect the CEL before start.

Sorry if this has all been said before, I have searched the thread, but it is long :-)

Hi,

what does our OBD2 reader tell you why your CEL is on? Normally it should tell you rather specifically what the issue is and you can turn the CEL off by switching diagnostics off for the cause if it is something like the ECU is looking for a sensor you don't have. I had to deactivate diag for IAT, air pressure and the second O2 sensor simply because my car is not equipped with them.

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Hi,

what does our OBD2 reader tell you why your CEL is on? Normally it should tell you rather specifically what the issue is and you can turn the CEL off by switching diagnostics off for the cause if it is something like the ECU is looking for a sensor you don't have. I had to deactivate diag for IAT, air pressure and the second O2 sensor simply because my car is not equipped with them.

Thanks

My OBD2 reader scans OK, but tells me that there are no codes... Strange...

I am taking my ECU out tomorrow to cross over the O2 pin/tank pressure pins, I will reflash then and also try with my old ECU.

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Pic of my vag com connection:

IMG_20140514_162612.jpg

So, with that, you are sending 12v and earth through to the ecu? Through the OBD2 socket on the car, it that the case, surely I can can connect the lives and earth to back of the OBD2 socket, so I haven't got to drill a VAG-0COM cable, or, are these 12v's and earth only needed for flashing and reading?

What does he yellow wire with the spade connector do?

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n00oooww, the electronics of the VAG com cable needs a powersupply too (12 volt), hence the red (+) and black (-) wire.

The yellow wire is the K-line and goes to the ECU socket, connected to B36

This is because he doesn't have a OBD socket, if you have a OBD socket its just plugging the VAG com in the OBD socket.

Edited by Piet
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Hey guys, I'm trying to find a way to send +13.5v to pin B8 when the car is off. I had an idea where I would use a wallwart via an inverter, but after I searched this tread I saw that it was tried unsuccessfully before.

I was also considering using an universal laptop charger (via an inverter) outputting 16v @ 6A. Do you think that this may be too little current supply to send the ECU into bootloader mode? Also, as far as I understand, only pin B8 needs to be supplied with +13.5v; does this mean that I can supply the VAG com cable and the ECU power pins (A12, A26, A27) directly with 12v battery power when the car is switched off and supply B8 with power from the laptop charger? Thanks!

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If you use a good battery charger, you can just feed b36 with battery power as well. Also 6A is MORE then enough. While flashing the ECU takes less than 500 mA (I believe around 330 mA). I'm not sure if it's healthy to feed b36 a different voltage than the rest, and I think the whole ECU needs 13,5v to be able to flash.

Edited by venderbroeck
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