Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!


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If you use a good battery charger, you can just feed b36 with battery power as well. Also 6A is MORE then enough. While flashing the ECU takes less than 500 mA (I believe around 330 mA). I'm not sure if it's healthy to feed b36 a different voltage than the rest, and I think the whole ECU needs 13,5v to be able to flash.

Ideally I'd like to flash the ECU in the car once I could supply it with sufficient power so I'm looking for other options than a battery charger. If all else fails then the battery charger seems like a good backup. Would 6A be sufficient to feed the entire ECU (A12, A26, A27) @ 15v?

I found that flashing the ECU on the car a PITA, some times it would take 3 or4 attemps to flash the ECU.

flashing the ECU out of the car is alot easier

Using the ostrich is so easy it`s unreal :)

It would be easier if I could get the ECU to be flashed in the car vs. on the bench once I could get an appropriate mobile power source. If all else fails then I guess the bench is a good backup. Thanks!

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I'm finally thinking about installing ostrich in one of my ECU's once soon I'll have to find the dead times and inj constant for my greens @ 4 bar (I already have the FPR) and then I'll also finally start turning up boost and fine tuning it (at least I hope so!). With ostrich will be much easier.

I read the posts about ostrich but I have some basic doubts.

The ostrich connector is a 28pin one or 34pin? In this image posted before it seems it is a 34pin but moates website seems to say it is a 28pin. It also seems it already comes with a 28pin cable and connector.

gallery_44472_1215_13361.png

Furthermore, the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 etc in ostrich correlates to the same numbers on the EPROM pinout below?

gallery_44472_1215_5255.png

Edited by S70-R
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If flashing in car, a strong battery charger is needed. I had a 6A charger, and it wasnt enough - even with the fuel pump relay and fan unplugged and everything turned off my voltage was too low. I bought a 20A charger on ebay for not too much and it works perfectly.

Then at least it is easy, connect charger, flick the switch on the ECU, flash and you're done.

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If flashing in car, a strong battery charger is needed. I had a 6A charger, and it wasnt enough - even with the fuel pump relay and fan unplugged and everything turned off my voltage was too low. I bought a 20A charger on ebay for not too much and it works perfectly.

Then at least it is easy, connect charger, flick the switch on the ECU, flash and you're done.

That's right as long as you have a power outlet somewhere where you can park your car. My garage, for example, doesn't have electricity so that sucks ;). I always take the ECU out of the car and flash in the house. not too difficult anyway but flashing in the car would be nicer, of course.

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I am running the rev5b p-part bin (607 - auto) and I cannot for the life of me understand how to turn the CEL off.

I have plugged in an OBD2 scanner, but it is telling me there are no faults. It tried resetting using the OBD2 scanner, and disconnecting the battery, but the CEL just stays on.

I understand that the CEL should blink (switch between on and off?) when knock is detected, but mine is on permanently (and has been since I flashed it). I am, however, running 98 fuel and havent pushed my car hard yet (still waiting for my spartan to arrive) and none of my logs so far have detected any knock. Will it just turn off the first time knock is detected, and then off again and so on? I like the idea of the CEL blinking when I have knock, but now my light is on permanently for casual driving.

I have also tried switching between maps (to make sure that didnt have anything to do with it), but that seems to just affect the CEL before start.

Sorry if this has all been said before, I have searched the thread, but it is long :-)

Try this: when you turn the key to position II, but before starting the car, press the accelerator pedal. With each press, the ECU will cycle between off (normal mode), always on, quick flash, and slow flash.

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S70-R, there's a cable they sell separate that's the the full 32 pin. Here's the cable for our ECMs. I've been doing a little poking around and I'm seriously about to buy another ECM to ravage for the Ostrich. I should probably wait since I've nearly killed reverse in my transmission. :idiot:
I would love to be able to fine tune for my injectors while cruising instead of guessing.

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I'm finally thinking about installing ostrich in one of my ECU's once soon I'll have to find the dead times and inj constant for my greens @ 4 bar (I already have the FPR) and then I'll also finally start turning up boost and fine tuning it (at least I hope so!). With ostrich will be much easier.

I read the posts about ostrich but I have some basic doubts.

The ostrich connector is a 28pin one or 34pin? In this image posted before it seems it is a 34pin but moates website seems to say it is a 28pin. It also seems it already comes with a 28pin cable and connector.

You need an adaptor cable from Moates in addition the Ostrich,

image_zpsd30cb279.jpg

and the DIP/PLCC32 adaptor that Simply Volvo listed about 80 pages back...... (and the DIP32 socket)

image_zpsd5e35d61.jpg

MUCH easier to tune on the fly. I can't imagine refining a tune with constant reflashing without the car running/driving.

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You need an adaptor cable from Moates in addition the Ostrich,

image_zpsd30cb279.jpg

and the DIP/PLCC32 adaptor that Simply Volvo listed about 80 pages back...... (and the DIP32 socket)

image_zpsd5e35d61.jpg

MUCH easier to tune on the fly. I can't imagine refining a tune with constant reflashing without the car running/driving.

Definitely agree with that, hence the reason why I love having the Haltech on the S80. Since the 850 is the DD flashing ME4.4 in the car (vs. on the bench) would suffice.. would love to get an Ostrich to make tuning easier but then again I'm being pretty cheap with the 850 :P

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Thank you for your answers. I still have some doubts.

I know the PLCC-32 socket needs to be soldered on the ECU and in one of my 3 ECU's I already have the socket soldered so I just need the DIP-PLCC adapter which would plug directly on the PLCC socket right (no solder)? The 32pin cable also plugs directly on the DIP-PLCC adapter right (no solder)?

Furthermore, how can I exactly fix the ostrich inside the ECU?

Thank you!

Edited by S70-R
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Why would we use the 28pin cable instead of 32pin if our epprom is 32pin?

With the adapter do we have enough clearance inside the ECU?

The link you post doesn't seem to allow purchases.

Edited by S70-R
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