S70-R Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'm running innovate LC-2 for 2 months with no problems so far. Of course this is a very short period of time but I didn't have any initial issues. It was pretty straight forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 The LC2 is quite a lot different to the LC1. On the LC1, the controller connects straight to the lambda sensor, in most cases, the controller has to go in the engine bay so it is exposed to high/low temps and moisture. I did look at making an extension but after reading up on it, it can cause issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Isn't the spartan what Matt has been having all the troubles with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'm sure you're referring to a different Matt, but I'll chime in anyways. The spartan I was using recently had the controller spontaneously crap out on it. At least that's the best I can figure. for the curious, I attempted diagnosis for repair. A problem on the output stage was my best hope for repair, IMO.......... it's not worth messing with otherwise. Pin 17 of the micro stuck at +5v... and I couldn't identify anything else on the output stage other than a little filtering. So I gave up. It's hard to know what condition the sensor is in. I was able to remove the in-socket controller in order to reuse the sensor, and have a replacement external spartan controller on the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woah4 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Sorry yes, I was referring to Simply Volvo. I am sorry to hear you are also having similar issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Mattwebb, My controller on my spartan just crapped out too, I sent it back Thursday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Hmmm, so the AEM is looking like the better option then, may be the lc2 as I've not heard of any problems with those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aequitas_Veritas Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=WDBDSMAFR_DM6G3 Not sure how the logging is, but the PLX gauge is really sweet, OLED and touchscreen. So far I havnt had any issues with mine. It can even tell you the health of your 02 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 I'm using the LC2, have had 0 problems with it. Seems to be very accurate. Have 2500 miles on it so far and it's seen some 9.5:1 ratios. I like how you can calibrate it!!! You can also program them for e85 and switch between lambda and wideband. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoguy23 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 By the way the controller for my lc2 is attached to the sheet metal by the heater core and is completely covered. O2 wiring comes out by the brake reservoir and power and ground from cig lighter.. Works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) Mattwebb, My controller on my spartan just crapped out too, I sent it back Thursday. What was the failure mode of yours? The one I'm using was out of warranty. They wanted it back to take a look at it, but I had already put it under the knife. They're shipping me an external spartan controller for half price. Anybody know if I can do anything with this NTK L1H1 I have. NOS, from a "DIY-WB" kit I never utilized from way way back (2001?) Edited June 1, 2014 by mattwebb502 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 What was the failure mode of yours? The one I'm using was out of warranty. They wanted it back to take a look at it, but I had already put it under the knife. They're shipping me an external spartan controller for half price. Anybody know if I can do anything with this NTK L1H1 I have. NOS, from a "DIY-WB" kit I never utilized from way way back (2001?) Controller completely died. When I applied voltage the sensor would not warm up, etc. I think mine is out of warranty too, but i only used it for like 300 miles I hope they cut me a deal. I just want a sensor lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattwebb502 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Controller completely died. When I applied voltage the sensor would not warm up, etc. That is odd. Short of a cold solder or bad sensor, not much else to explain the heater not working. If you take a look at my pic above there is not a single high current component in there (the back side of the board only has a few surface mount diodes and a cap or two)--- the TO-92 being the biggest, and that's just the 5v regulator. I had assumed that the heater circuit was directly fed and not controlled in any way. Perhaps I am wrong, but I doubt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) Oh no.... How long will it take for my Spartan to die too then... until now it works fine...but if it fails I'am going for the AEM then Edited June 1, 2014 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorx Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) A bit further in the quest for understanding. The AFR table . Under low load , this is a pretty perfect AFR table .Under load other factors play a role more load VE related .. Well we knew .Now, the adjustment of these values . This is only possible if the fuel trims via Piet 's and Maarten 's method at least stable . All three .Was also clear but only for completeness .What I have discovered is this: The basis of the default AFRmap is good. Not based on high power or avoiding detonation , but the proportions are correct . Volvo's choice was fuel economy and detonation was seen as acceptable. Normally not a problem during the learnig perios under low load , unless you want to get little more than that . WinkThe approach of this table : Per column . From 3000rpm maybe even 2580 you must select a column from a load higher than 4 . Do not devide , but substract from your column and you will discover how to scale .Note the stability and tightness of the AFR ( blue) .Is only a proof of concept . But AFR or lambda at command and flat is possible. -edit- The slight overshoot (purple) is the result of a revamped 19T. A fresh one comes this week. Proper remapping I will do afterwards. Edited June 2, 2014 by razorx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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