Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

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Are you using the 608 map? If you are then I would say your issue is probably mechanical unless you've changed things that you aren't very familiar with.. Reload the bin in tuner pro and scan through some of the maps and make sure they look right and then reflash..sometimes tunerpro will do some funny things. I've had a couple maps completely zeroed out before....uninstalled tunerpro and reinstalled it and haven't had any issues since.

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Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated.
Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. At this point (11/21/2013) the article isn't quite complete, but has all the relevant information to get started. Before asking any questions please read from at least page 30 on.
One of the things lacking in the Volvo community is easy tune-ability for cheap. So, for the past month or so I've been working on tuning M4.4 for free. Work has been done in the past with MotronicSuite, however development stopped halfway leaving a mostly unusable product.
I have created an .xdf definition file for TunerPro with the most important map and scalar locations. It is not finished, but should be a good starting point for anyone willing to experiment. If we can get a good base of experimenters we can figure out the most effective tuning methodologies and how the maps play together. Together we can make freeware tuning a reality!
So far I've been successful in modifying a S70T5-M .bin file for green injectors, increasing the requested load, disabling the rear O2 checks and making the timing more aggressive. I'm still working on how to disable the SAS checks.
I do not have A/C so I have not worked on making the A/C commands play with an originally equipped M4.3 car. Therefore flashing a M4.4 tune on your M4.3 could ruin your A/C! I'm not exactly sure what happens to the A/C when a M4.4 ECU is used; if anyone can enlighten me I can look in solving the problem.
Alright, now how to flash your M4.4 ECU. You will need TunerPro, the .xdf definition and an appropriate .bin file (all linked at the bottom). The .bin file is the contents of the flash chip from an ECU. It contains the code that tells the ECU how to interpret sensors and run the engine. It contains assembly language instructions along with look up maps and scalars. The .xdf is a TunerPro specific file that contains the addresses of the maps and scalars.
Open the .bin and .xdf file in TunerPro and you will see the items that you can modify. A word of caution, modifying some of these values can cause catastrophic engine failure. Don't modify something unless you have the appropriate monitoring ability (Wideband, EGT, etc).
It is possible to flash the ECU in the car using a cheap VAG-COM cable. However, in order to flash the ECU you must pull pin B8 on the ECU to battery voltage. Having pin B8 at battery voltage when the ECU is turned on causes the ECU to enter bootloader mode, this allows the contents of the flash chip to be erased and written to. The switch on top of ARD’s ECU’s enables bootloader mode. To do it yourself you can open the ECU box and wire a switch in between pin B8 and A12(ignition power). Or you could just solder a long wire to pin B8 and run it to the positive post on your battery. Flashing M4.4 requires fairly high voltage (13.5ish) so your battery must be fully charged and healthy to flash! My battery is old and I do not have a very powerful battery charger so I flash on my desk. I use a 15 volt power supply and connect the VAG-COM cable and power connections using jumper wires.
I have simplified the whole process quite a bit, if you want more information please just ask.
If anyone is interested in adding additional items to the .xdf I can provide a DAMOS file for reference.
Updated 3/10/13 10:44PM : TunerPro .xdf for non-immo bins

Forgot to mention, there are a few maps labeled NTBD. There is a problem with these maps, most just don't have the axis internally linked.

url you gave does not work

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Please go to the M44 wiki page. That page is an excellent start to get things working.

This topic has been cluttered recently with a lot of unnecessary posts.

This is an investigational topic. Please dont fill this topic with questions that have already been answered.

First read the wiki and then all the pages of this topic, multiple times as I did. I am not joking.

Edited by razorx
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I indeed have had a MSD coil a couple of years ago.

In the beginning no problems, but after a few months suddenly unexpained misfires round 4000RPM.

Has cost me a lot of time before Ifound out that the new MSD coil was the cause.

Throw it in the bin and installed a nice new stock coil, never had problems with it ever since.

There are of a couple of 850 owners here in holland having the same problems with the MSD

My experience is that in general aftermarket stuff with so called improved functionality are mostly far inferior to new oem volvo parts.

People who sometime experience improvements are forgetting that they replaced a worn out oem part for a new aftermarket part.

But hee.. maybe you are in luck and your MSD doesn't fail within a few months from now.

By the way Piet, I think my MSD coil just started to fail.

Now that I turned up boost/load I'm starting to have misfires arround 4/5k rpm (sometimes it throws a CEL, sometimes it doesn't but it's quite noticeable. Even when there's no CEL the car backfires and I feel a strong and quick loss of power).

Time to swap back to my old stock coil or buy a brand new stock one.

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TMM9 Is going to be doing COP conversions soon. Have a word with him, May work out cheaper than a new coil. I was looking at buying one, A decent one is about £110 over here or a cheapy one, £45

It's a nice alternative but I think I don't want to mess with more "heavy" mods at the moment.

Still need to find out if at peak torque range I really can't (due to knock) run more than the current 10.5 ignition advance before 12.x load and more than 9 above that load. I may try another cam setting apart from the one I have now (which is I-2/E+2).

I think it is supposed to be able to run slightly higher ignition advance even on these loads.

Weak coil/spark ignition may has something do to with it.

Tomorrow I'll put back my old stock coil and see what it does.

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The COP mod is really worth it though.

The engine runs much smoother especially in the higher RPM area due to a much stronger spark as with the stock coil.

It could even resolve the igintion retard problems you are experiencing.

The COP system is less prone to spark blowout with higher boost levels, especially round peak torque..

Edited by Piet
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Yes, it sounds promising!

Apart from the ECU special COP bin (and the COP's of course), what else is it required, specially regarding the connections to the ECU?

How do you power the COPs?

Do you use the stock coil power supply?

Edited by S70-R
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You will have to purchase 5 COP connectors, that's all.

I do use the power supply of the coil for the COP's.

The signal lead for the stock coil becomes the signal for the No.1 cylinder.

For the other four cylinders I plugged in extra leads in the ECU connector..

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