Tightmopedman9

Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

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Did you read all the 200+ pages on this topic ?

I'm sure after you've done reading them, you'll know for sure what and where to modify.

Enjoy reading, redundant info is not ok. So don't be lazy :)

I've used the search and I still can't find correct/or up to date info but I'm not going to read 200 pages. I have better things to do.

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Then if the guys will just go all over again with their work for granted, it's their choice.

But sometimes you have to also help yourself with the info. That's because they lost much more time to experiment and write things down than you would lose reading them.

Sorry for the offtopic guys, but I really can't stand spoonfeeding. I respect you and your hard work

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Yeah I read that I just didn't know where to start from. But which table do I modify?

Look at my screenshot a couple posts up.

You will see the parameters by category like mine if you follow Venderbroecks directions above.

You can see the inj. Constant, voltage table and Min inj time windows. Follow the directions in the linked page above by Avinitlarge.

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Well maybe this is chance to make the wikia a little more clear. This thread has become so massive that trying to find any info is very difficult. I've read through a lot of stuff and had a lot of my questions answered but there's some stuff that I can't find because I get 50 pages of results from a search so maybe you could stop being so rude.

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O am not rude, my good man. But there are things you should take GOOD care when modifying, that must be tailored to your setup,and that cannot be just copy-pasted.

You risk going lean and destroying your engine.

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The last game of thrones book I read was 1040 pages long. It took me less than a week to read it (Yes, I really like AGOT :P).

Surely 200 pages of very interesting and sometimes valuable tuning info can't be that much effort if you really like to tune.

The first 60 pages or so had me glued to the monitor, because the work being done was pretty awesome.

Alot of it can be skipped over even. As midnight is saying, there are some insights in here that can help you safeguard your engine.

The wikia is a work in progress for those who choose to spend their own free time on it. As it's open to edit, feel free to contribute :)

We can't (and probably don't want to) predict everything that people don't understand, but as you can see, clarifications are added once in a while.

Edited by venderbroeck
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Did you read all the 200+ pages on this topic ?

I'm sure after you've done reading them, you'll know for sure what and where to modify.

Enjoy reading, redundant info is not ok. So don't be lazy :)

You have zero contribution to this topic so slow down expressing frustration.

Then if the guys will just go all over again with their work for granted, it's their choice.

Exactly... so why YOU jump on people for asking questions?

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I've read it all but joined in when it was at about page 40 ish. Even though I read it, I've forgotten a bit, mostly irrelevant and obsolete stuff. There are a lot of pages that don't contain useful info but its still worth a read anyway.

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More info regarding flashing in car w/o charger,

Now I have installed the voltage step-up (that I did mentioned earlier) to pin B8 via 12V "key-on power supply" (pin A27). Flashing now works perfectly if put 15V on pin B8 at key on. I also tested another scenario just to verify... I did test to do a normal key on and then waited 10-15 seconds before I did put 15V on pin B8 to see if the "power up" needed to be synked or not. It was not needed!!! 8) When I flicked the flash switch on, the fan started (boot mode activated) and I could flash as if everything was normal. It worked perfectly! Boot mode could also be switched on and off (fan on and off) with the switch when at key on without any issues. I can flash wherever I want now. Hope more people will try the same, it's very nice!

This is the step-up I bought from ebay with free shipping (slightly bigger then a 1,5V AA battery): http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-4A-4-5-32V-to-5-42V-12V-24V-step-up-BOOST-converter-power-module-/130770051722

// Turboforslund

Added this method to the M44 Wikia.

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Added this method to the M44 Wikia.

Thanks a lot lookforjoe!! 8)

Have you tried out the kit yet?

// Turboforslund

Edited by Turboforslund

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Lookforjoe is using an Ostrich so no need for bootloader mode. Just flash straight from the USB to the ostrich. Takes a couple of seconds to flash the full bin.

I like your idea, makes it much easier for people not using an ostrich.

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Thanks a lot lookforjoe!! 8)

Have you tried out the kit yet?

// Turboforslund

I have ordered it and should have it early March and try it out on my second 850 T5 which I just bought to mess around with. ;)

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Lookforjoe is using an Ostrich so no need for bootloader mode. Just flash straight from the USB to the ostrich. Takes a couple of seconds to flash the full bin.

I like your idea, makes it much easier for people not using an ostrich.

Minutes after my post I realized that he uses an ostrich... :)

I will try to improve in-car flashing by putting a relay to pin A22 (fan high speed) in order to stop the fan while flashing (already have the diode to verify that boot-mode is active). At the moment even a optima yellowtop is getting weak after 20 flashes and no driving... 8)

I will post an electrical drawing proposal when I'm done...

Another question regarding the Ostrich: Is it space enough within the ECU to fit all the required eeprom sockets and so on for the floppy cable without having to cut the case somehow? Or do I need to solder the floppy cable to the board to get space enough? It would be so sweet to if it could look like the turbo-tuner ecu's from the outside (just the usb port would tell it's changed)

// Turboforslund

Edited by Turboforslund

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Another question regarding the Ostrich: Is it space enough within the ECU to fit all the required eeprom sockets and so on for the floppy cable without having to cut the case somehow? Or do I need to solder the floppy cable to the board to get space enough? It would be so sweet to if it could look like the turbo-tuner ecu's from the outside (just the usb post would tell it's changed)

// Turboforslund

I have mine inside the ECU

710558AB-F7CD-48BD-A6AB-CED900305D35.jpg

947C6CE5-1F35-4A8C-B937-325FC39E5D95.jpg

71FB4293-E5AE-43CE-9269-02F9F9B90D23.jpg

07167090-55C8-48BA-85A3-0F6271128DA2.jpg

4C2E7424-1769-43BE-A105-D82947819228.jpg

3631E3FD-2895-46BE-84B9-45323AEA9350.jpg

Edited by Avinitlarge

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I think soldering it is the only way for that. I've already installed an ostrich in the manner you describe for someone (usb port at the top of the housing). The socket stack seems to be a bit too tall for the casing I believe. If you take a look in my tinkerings thread you can find a way to get rid of the usb port aswell.

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