Avinitlarge Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) I like it, pretty cool. Rica use FEF0 to put there bit in. This is from the chip that came on my car when I bought it Edited March 30, 2015 by Avinitlarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo11811 Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 hey guys i was fiddling through the damos the other day, not sure if anyone has this map noticed the latest firing angle was always -9.75 F25B and matching 1F25B = latest firing angle, for anyone with a large turbo looking to build good boost this will need to be modified along with the anti lag Simply volvo had posted also its really, really loud.. i was only able to do this once where i was, pardon the horrible video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Wow that's loud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Nice stevo! I remember talking you about this. Once I get my car running I want to update the launch control to be boost by gear friendly and get no lift shift working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo11811 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) It definitely works lol, i tested at -20 degrees and i turned down the fuel enrichment to 1.1, it builds full boost in about a half second or less, but thats on a 16t i want to see it on that beast of a turbo you just got Nice stevo! I remember talking you about this. Once I get my car running I want to update the launch control to be boost by gear friendly and get no lift shift working. Edited March 31, 2015 by Stevo11811 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Mohammed Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Today I had a major breaktrough with my Lambda Commander. It started all wit a very good conversation and a suggestion from Piet: Use a wideband lambda sond and convert this signal to a narrowband signal with a variable lambda setpoint. This setpoint depends on load and RPM. A bit leaner than 1 for idling and cruising and what you want under low, medium or high load. For the first tests I used the MAF signal because: MAF is related to load * rpm It works. It works fine! The desired lambda values are reached in a fast and precise way. So lamba regulation all over the power range. This eliminates a lot of VE map calibration, Small mismatches between LPG and gas injectors become uninteresting. Aging of components like injectors, presure regulator of the MAF sensor becomes less disturbing under WOT. And last but not least less risc of detonation because of VE maps that are subobtimal. Tuning just becomes simpler. In fact you have a sort of wideband regulation. All VE map cells have been set set to 1 and the load limit for lambda regulation has been set to its max, 12.24 The high speed of the simulated narrowband signal is no problem for the ECU. What is essential is to give a reference voltage on the lambda minus input of the ECU and make sure the low signal is close to 0.1V and the high signal is close to 0.9V above reference. 0V and 1V will not do! Holiday is coming soon. Detailed log results will follow in a week or three. -edit- Now I use a humble PIC from the 16F series. If a have time I will play with a heavier PIC with USB support and the storage to work with larger tables. Sorry to dig this back up but I've been scrolling through the thread and haven't found too many updates on the AFR Master project.... razorx do you have any more updates? I'm highly interested in this mod. I understand that it seems to be working well for you but do you have a finalized version of the hardware? I'd like to implement this on my daily driven 850 ASAP Edited April 1, 2015 by Stefan Mohammed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Piet has made a software version of it. It is currently being tested, it is proving to work very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Digging time again I saw pretty much people had troubles setting up the greens dead times. My thought is : Take the specs in this document (FNPW_OFFSET) '> The offset is specified at 39.15PSID, which is 2.70BAR. Our regulator works at 3BAR (43.5PSID) differential pressure. If we try to proportionate things, 43.5/39.15 = 1.11 multiplier. Unfortunately, this is not true, because as the document says (FNPW_OFFCOMP), a multiplier of 1.11 would correspond to a pressure of 58PSID (4BAR). If we use the 44.95PSID line, I think the dead times would be now : 10V - 1.132 12V - 0.950 13V - 0.813 14V - 0.693 And so on. Are these the values you are using in your tunes when switching to greens, or I'm calculating something wrong here ? I checked the data on the white injectors, with the multiplier, and it's not consistent... I'm multiplying the values here I'm using the values in this spec sheet : '> Multiply the 12V value with 1.0401, and I'm getting 1.081 instead of 1.209 in the stock bin. Any ideas to help us non-ostrich-ers avoid a lot of taking the ECU out and writing it in the house ? (apart from writing ECU in car with the voltage booster) Edited April 1, 2015 by Midnight Caller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) I calculated greens using the data sheet, The values didn't work. 3 bar 5.00 5.1126 5.99 5.1126 6.97 3.678 8.03 2.033 9.02 1.746 10.00 1.355 10.99 1.126 11.48 1.036 11.97 0.9483 12.47 0.8781 13.03 0.8027 13.52 0.7446 14.02 0.6857 14.51 0.6373 15.00 0.5899 15.99 0.4432 S70-R (Miguel) also made a chart which is here I also calculated the values for me 750cc injectors using the data that came with them, The values were miles out. Edited April 1, 2015 by Avinitlarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Darn it. Why the heck do they release these anyway then ? I understand neither my calculations, yours or Miguel's are useable then ? What values would be ok for greens after all ? Edited April 1, 2015 by Midnight Caller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Nope, neither seemed to be useful These were mine Constant 0.7657 dead times between 11 and 14v 0.5460 Is the conversion for dead times correct in the XDF? After installing my 750's, I had to increase the dead times .35 over the data sheet values. Piet thinks its to high and so does the supplier, yet the car runs sweet Edited April 1, 2015 by Avinitlarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks ! I'll try yours when I'll install them and work up from there. I'm not afraid of the injector constant as much as I'll hate pulling ECU out to twiddle the dead times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Digging time again Any ideas to help us non-ostrich-ers avoid a lot of taking the ECU out and writing it in the house ? (apart from writing ECU in car with the voltage booster) Yes...buying a Ostrich Sorry... just teasing. But the iteration method is the only way to get your injectorparameters or better said your fueltrims right. I feed my injectors (greens) with a constant 14 volt with a buckconcerter, I found my optimal settings to be 0.75 for my injectorconstant and 0.54 for the deadtime at 14 volt. (which is pretty close to what Avinitlarge was using with his greens) But these values don't necessarily have to apply for somebody else with greens, there are many factors of influence. Edited April 1, 2015 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks ! I'll try yours when I'll install them and work up from there. I'm not afraid of the injector constant as much as I'll hate pulling ECU out to twiddle the dead times You really need an ostrich. They make life so much easier and quicker. It takes a fraction of a second to change a value with the ostrich, Using the OBD, about 2 mins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Caller Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 175$ + shipping taxes + custom charges here in Romania would take me up to almost if not over 300$, almost doubling its price That's the only reason I'm not throwing myself all over an Ostrich now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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