Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!


Recommended Posts

hey guys i was fiddling through the damos the other day, not sure if anyone has this map

noticed the latest firing angle was always -9.75

F25B and matching 1F25B = latest firing angle, for anyone with a large turbo looking to build good boost this will need to be modified along with the anti lag Simply volvo had posted

also its really, really loud.. i was only able to do this once where i was, pardon the horrible video

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It definitely works lol, i tested at -20 degrees and i turned down the fuel enrichment to 1.1, it builds full boost in about a half second or less, but thats on a 16t :( i want to see it on that beast of a turbo you just got

Nice stevo! I remember talking you about this.

Once I get my car running I want to update the launch control to be boost by gear friendly and get no lift shift working.

Edited by Stevo11811
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I had a major breaktrough with my Lambda Commander.

It started all wit a very good conversation and a suggestion from Piet:

Use a wideband lambda sond and convert this signal to a narrowband signal with a variable lambda setpoint.

This setpoint depends on load and RPM. A bit leaner than 1 for idling and cruising and what you want under low, medium or high load.

For the first tests I used the MAF signal because:

MAF is related to load * rpm

It works. It works fine!

The desired lambda values are reached in a fast and precise way.

So lamba regulation all over the power range.

This eliminates a lot of VE map calibration, Small mismatches between LPG and gas injectors become uninteresting.

Aging of components like injectors, presure regulator of the MAF sensor becomes less disturbing under WOT.

And last but not least less risc of detonation because of VE maps that are subobtimal.

Tuning just becomes simpler. In fact you have a sort of wideband regulation.

All VE map cells have been set set to 1 and the load limit for lambda regulation has been set to its max, 12.24

The high speed of the simulated narrowband signal is no problem for the ECU.

What is essential is to give a reference voltage on the lambda minus input of the ECU and make sure the low signal is close to 0.1V and the high signal is close to 0.9V above reference.

0V and 1V will not do!

Holiday is coming soon. Detailed log results will follow in a week or three.

-edit- Now I use a humble PIC from the 16F series. If a have time I will play with a heavier PIC with USB support and the storage to work with larger tables.

Sorry to dig this back up but I've been scrolling through the thread and haven't found too many updates on the AFR Master project.... razorx do you have any more updates? I'm highly interested in this mod. I understand that it seems to be working well for you but do you have a finalized version of the hardware? I'd like to implement this on my daily driven 850 ASAP :)

Edited by Stefan Mohammed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Digging time again :)

I saw pretty much people had troubles setting up the greens dead times. My thought is :

Take the specs in this document (FNPW_OFFSET)

'>

The offset is specified at 39.15PSID, which is 2.70BAR. Our regulator works at 3BAR (43.5PSID) differential pressure.

If we try to proportionate things, 43.5/39.15 = 1.11 multiplier. Unfortunately, this is not true, because as the document says (FNPW_OFFCOMP), a multiplier of 1.11 would correspond to a pressure of 58PSID (4BAR).

If we use the 44.95PSID line, I think the dead times would be now :

10V - 1.132

12V - 0.950

13V - 0.813

14V - 0.693

And so on.

Are these the values you are using in your tunes when switching to greens, or I'm calculating something wrong here ?

I checked the data on the white injectors, with the multiplier, and it's not consistent...

I'm multiplying the values here

I'm using the values in this spec sheet :

'>

Multiply the 12V value with 1.0401, and I'm getting 1.081 instead of 1.209 in the stock bin.

Any ideas to help us non-ostrich-ers avoid a lot of taking the ECU out and writing it in the house ? (apart from writing ECU in car with the voltage booster) :)

Edited by Midnight Caller
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I calculated greens using the data sheet, The values didn't work.

3 bar

5.00 5.1126
5.99 5.1126
6.97 3.678
8.03 2.033
9.02 1.746
10.00 1.355
10.99 1.126
11.48 1.036
11.97 0.9483
12.47 0.8781
13.03 0.8027
13.52 0.7446
14.02 0.6857
14.51 0.6373
15.00 0.5899
15.99 0.4432

S70-R (Miguel) also made a chart which is here

I also calculated the values for me 750cc injectors using the data that came with them, The values were miles out.

Edited by Avinitlarge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope, neither seemed to be useful
These were mine

Constant 0.7657
dead times between 11 and 14v 0.5460

Is the conversion for dead times correct in the XDF? After installing my 750's, I had to increase the dead times .35 over the data sheet values. Piet thinks its to high and so does the supplier, yet the car runs sweet

Edited by Avinitlarge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Digging time again :)

Any ideas to help us non-ostrich-ers avoid a lot of taking the ECU out and writing it in the house ? (apart from writing ECU in car with the voltage booster) :)

Yes...buying a Ostrich :)

Sorry... just teasing.

But the iteration method is the only way to get your injectorparameters or better said your fueltrims right.

I feed my injectors (greens) with a constant 14 volt with a buckconcerter, I found my optimal settings to be 0.75 for my injectorconstant and 0.54 for the deadtime at 14 volt. (which is pretty close to what Avinitlarge was using with his greens)

But these values don't necessarily have to apply for somebody else with greens, there are many factors of influence.

Edited by Piet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks ! I'll try yours when I'll install them and work up from there. I'm not afraid of the injector constant as much as I'll hate pulling ECU out to twiddle the dead times :angry:

You really need an ostrich. They make life so much easier and quicker. It takes a fraction of a second to change a value with the ostrich, Using the OBD, about 2 mins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share