Avinitlarge Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 I don't know is anyone knows this or not. The ECU receptacles are made by AMP/TE, The large are Junior Timer and the small ones are Micro timer II. Volvo want loads of money for them, if you buy the AMP version, They cost peanuts. Ive just bought 50 of each for £11.40. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorx Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Thanks a lot. I immediately ordered a couple of them at Farnell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdog Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) Good job!! This looks like the small one? http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/964263-2/A123076CT-ND/5419548 and the large? http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/927771-1/A107207CT-ND/3488768 By chance did you find a crimper for these that's not a mint? Edited January 7, 2017 by gdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) There are Many different ones. I spent about 4 hours researching and found the ones suitable. Large 927770-3 Small 964275-1 As for the crimp tool, I have one for crimping superseal connectors, It works with these. You can buy cheaper versions that will work though, Something like THIS Edited January 7, 2017 by Avinitlarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
German850R Posted January 7, 2017 Report Share Posted January 7, 2017 There are 2 different terminals that look right but one has the little wings 90 degrees off, so be careful ;). I ordered mine at farnell or mouser last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorx Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) The crimper I use is a YYT 11 which is of more then acceptable quality. CK has better crimpers than this one for a nice price. ;) Edited January 10, 2017 by razorx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Has anyone managed to simulate the crank and cam triggers for bench testing with an Arduino? Ive been trying for the past 2 days and failed miserably. Last night I cam across something called Ardu Stim which I got quite excited about as I thought it would do the job, 60-2 crank plus cam sensor. Ive been playing with it for the passed 4 hours, Sadly, I failed yet again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piet Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) I manage to get the ECU in the "running loop" by just simply applying a square wave signal of something like 50 HZ to A20 with aid of a function generator. Edited January 10, 2017 by Piet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Sadly, I don't have a function generator I left the Author a message, he said " Does your stock system use a VR or Hall sensor? VR inputs likely need some signal conditioning (RC integrator) to make the digital ardustim signal look like the analog signal the ecu wants to see." Which is easy enough to sort out, I don't have a scope to check the waveform and I wouldn't know what cap or resistor to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turboforslund Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 8 minutes ago, Avinitlarge said: Sadly, I don't have a function generator I left the Author a message, he said " Does your stock system use a VR or Hall sensor? VR inputs likely need some signal conditioning (RC integrator) to make the digital ardustim signal look like the analog signal the ecu wants to see." Which is easy enough to sort out, I don't have a scope to check the waveform and I wouldn't know what cap or resistor to use. Hi, I do believe that the engine has a hall sensor to determine the cam position. // Turboforslund Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 The cam is hall, The crank is VR. Once the engine is running, You can disconnect the cam sensor and it will still run. Anyway, this is going off topic so I'll stop blathering on about it. If anyone has any suggestions, Could you message me please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) Very interesting that feeding it a square wave even works at all. From my understanding, the VR sensor outputs a variable frequency AC sine wave, where amplitude (voltage) increases with engine RPM. This then goes through some sort of condition circuit such as a opamp (zero crossing detector) which converts this to a square wave which is much easier for the micro controller to understand. I would look into creating a power inverter type of circuit where you use two transistors, one to represent each output wire (2) of the VR sensor. I don't think it would be necessary to implement a full sine wave, but you could probably get away with a modified sine wave (sine wave in the form of a square wave), so you dont have to implement any massive LUTs (look up tables). Another option would be to screw the AC and take a DC square wave approach with 2 transistors like piet has. This will allow for the voltages of 0, 2.5 and 5v which will be useful for implementing the missing tooth (2.5V). Look at this document for more information on the above http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/219351/219351.pdf The came sensor should be fairly easily to implement and its either on or off (0V or 5V). Edited January 10, 2017 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 22 minutes ago, Simply Volvo said: Look at this document for more information on the above http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/219351/219351.pdf The came sensor should be fairly easily to implement and its either on or off (0V or 5V). Im just in the middle of reading that, I think I will find my answer in that document, I hope 🤞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avinitlarge Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 (edited) Ive decided to forget about it. Needs a lot of code altering and adding which I can't do. Needs and extra circuit building which will end up costing about £80 in parts, Its just not worth bothering with for the little use it will get. Idea Scrapped, not unless someone comes up with something nice and simple Edited January 10, 2017 by Avinitlarge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply Volvo Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Avinitlarge said: Ive decided to forget about it. Needs a lot of code altering and adding which I can't do. Needs and extra circuit building which will end up costing about £80 in parts, Its just not worth bothering with for the little use it will get. Idea Scrapped, not unless someone comes up with something nice and simple Why not trace the circuit and see if the VR sensor input goes to any ICs. Look up the integrated circuit datasheet and see if its some sort of conditioner. Find the output pin and simply tap into that, this way you can just feed it a 0-5 square wave that's already conditioned. Edited January 11, 2017 by Simply Volvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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